Refurbishing Old Handsaw

[DugT]

I have on old, neglected Disston handsaw that I would like to bring back to life. What's the best way to clean up the blade? I remember seeing an article somewhere a few years ago that described how to clean metal by placing the metal object in water and connecting 6-volt batteries to it somehow, but I honestly don't understand how the process works. Can someone explain? This blade is in pretty bad shape, requiring more than something like steel wool. But I can faintly see the trademark keystone, some of the writing and the name Henry Disston. TIA

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4291051631&idx=68

[Bob Smalser]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid150/p297f0a41234476a2d108af06afa38c40/f5e6fde8.jpg

Pete Taran, a sawyer's son on rehabbing your saw:

http://www.vintagesaws.com/cgi-bin/frameset.cgi?left=main&right=/library/library.html

And my meager supplement to his excellent treatise on saw filing:

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009165

[ 12-15-2004, 01:57 AM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[yorgie]

That is a great site!Thanks Bob.

[Norm Bernstein]

Nice boat project, DugT... I enjoyed running through your photos. Lovely boat!

[Dan Lindberg]

Bob,

Thanks for the site, very nice.

As for cleaning rust, chemically remove it, that way you don't leave a mark on the steel.

There are a number of rust dissolvers on the market now, the old traditional is Navel Jelly, and now there are several in liquid form.

Just apply or soak, depending on the piece and material, warmth helps the reaction. When done the steel will look like new steel except with depressions where the rust was, the more rust, the larger the depression.

BTW, this also works for the inside of tanks etc. I've resorted a number of old Coleman lanterns where the inside of the tank was very rusty, so much so that they leaked. After removing the rust, then coat with sealer products (do a search) that seal and plug the holes.

Dan

[DugT]

Thanks Bob...couldn't ask for more than that! I'll post my results. Norm, thanks, can't wait to start another one.

Doug

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by DugT:
I have on old, neglected Disston handsaw that I would like to bring back to life. What's the best way to clean up the blade? I remember seeing an article somewhere a few years ago that described how to clean metal by placing the metal object in water and connecting 6-volt batteries to it somehow, but I honestly don't understand how the process works. Can someone explain?You can use electrolysis to "undo" tool corrosion. Basically, you need a sacrificial anode (a hunk o'steel that's willing to give its all for the other tool), the tool you want to restore (the cathode), an electrolyte. Connect the positive (+) side of a DC voltage source to the anode, the negative side (-) to the cathode, place both cathode and anode in the electrolyte and away you go. Be very careful that the cathode and anode don't touch.

Here's some links that describe the process:

http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/handsaws/handsaws.htm

http://www-2.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/electrolysis.txt

http://users.ev1.net/~gmuster/tool_restoration.htm

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

Rather than try to get a saw blade sparkling clean I lean toward getting it smooth again even if the blade remains discolored.
I use a fine stone with water and take off whatever rust I can.
Voltaic cell cleaning will clean down into the rust pits but that may expose roughness that will cause increased friction when sawing. Also, some sacrificial metals are more active than others and may speed up the process enough to etch into the blade.
The last saw I restored was a very old Disston straight back. I bought it for the lovely old handle. But on a lark I got my old Sears "How to Sharpen a Saw" book and went thru' all the steps. Hammered the blade straight,flattened the toothed edge, recut,resharpened and reset. It's not perfect but works like a charm.
Wish I had learned to do all this stuff 30 years ago.
Charlie

[DugT]

Nicholas,

Thanks for those links. I especially like the "old tool" link--good, clearly presented info. I'd like to try the electrolosis thing, but probably not on this saw. I think it would be a cool experiment to do with my 3rd grader.

Doug

[alteran]

Originally posted by DugT:
Nicholas,

I think it would be a cool experiment to do with my 3rd grader.

DougIs your third grader a bit rusty? smile.gif

[DugT]

:D

[Victor]

I believe Naval Jelly is phosphoric in some form of binder. Muriatic will surely clean the rust off quickly, but may be too corrosive.

[Cosmo Lengro]

;)

[Granville]

Oxalic acid works great on rusty stuff too.

[merlinron]

after getting the rust off, you can polish a bit with some 400 grit wet/dry and then give it a good coat johnson paste wax. i haven't had any problems with gluing the surfases of wood that come in contact with the saw blade, yet, besides the cut surface is usually worked with a block plane or something after the cut, so any wax that transfered would be removed.

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

I've brought back numerous old handsaws and I would definitely avoid using any acid or grit blasting on a rusty saw blade. If a blade is rough, as it might be if the all the rust is remeoved it will continually catch on the sides of the saw cut. Saws like that are unuseable.
I use a small fine-grit stone and some water to work the blade smooth. The blade is often still somewhat black but it will not stick in the cut and make your sawing a misery. Smooth but not necessarily clean is the watchword.
Sears sells most of the stuff you'll need to sharpen except a saw vice. You'll either have to rig something up or buy an antique. You need the appropriate sized three-cornerd file for the tooth count of your saw and a 10-12" flat mill file to join the teeth(flatten the highest teeth down to the level of the lowest). And you'll need a saw set. New ones are probably still available but mine is also a rescued antique.
Plenty of books and pamphlets out there explain the saw filing technique.
It takes awhile to get good at it but, until you do, you'll have saws that are not "on the money" but yet, cut better than they did.
Charlie

[LLaver]

There is a good saw vice going on ebay here in Australia.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Henry-Disston-Saw-Vice_W0QQitemZ4406321470QQcategoryZ20761QQrdZ1QQcm dZViewItem

Approx six days to go no bids yet reserve set at $20AUS our dollar is worth approx $0.76US

worldwide postage is listed at $16AUS

Cheers

Lee

[LLaver]

And another

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VINTAGE-HENRY-DISSTON-SONS-INC-SAW-CLAMP_W0QQitemZ6210392890QQcategoryZ13875QQssPageN ameZWDVWQQrd Z1QQcmdZViewItem

Lee

[LLaver]

And a couple of Disston saw sets

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2-DISSTON-SAW-SETS-SETTER-VINTAGE_W0QQitemZ6210749616QQcategoryZ13875QQssPag eNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmd ZViewItem

Lee