Deadeyes and blocks...

[RodB]

Today, while photo documenting the progress on Peterson's "Susan", I noticed that Bob Albers was also fabricating some blocks and deadeyes for a large classic ship... restoration. I thought a few pics of said deadeyes and blocks would be of interest here. Bob has been fabricating blocks in several sizes for several large ships the last couple of years... and of course will be using smaller blocks and deadeyes on "Susan when she is rigged.

Here is the basic deadeye, about 7-8 inches in diameter, three layer glue-up (3/4" thickness outside pieces, about 2" thickness center layer) with 3/4" holes for the lines.... made in oak and coated with linseed oil.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/deadeyeoverheadonedge-72.jpg

Here is the finished deadeye along with the three piece glueup...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/deadeyedramaticshotstart-finish-72.jpg

Clamped up tight...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/deadeyeglueupclampsclose-72.jpg

This shows the flat center section meant for the bottom deadeye with metal strapping to attach to the chain plates. Naturally, the upper deadeyes will be rounded to fit line...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Deadeyeonside-72.jpg

A profile view...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/deadeyeprofile-72.jpg

Here the illustration shows all in use....

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/deadeyediagramcomp.jpg

[RodB]

Here is a finished block, I thought I would show this, even though Bob is only supplying the wood portion of the block for most projects.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Albersblocknoengravingsmallone.jpg

Block component glue-up... teak

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Albersblockparts-72-2.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Albersblockdouble-singleandsidep-1.jpg

Heres a properly finished block...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Albersbestblockdramatic-72-1.jpg

Bob is going to make the blocks for "Susan" from Osage...

RodB

[rbgarr]

What finish with the oak deadeyes have?

[RodB]

They are being shipped with linseed oil only... I think the rigger will probably add some other finish... not sure?

RodB

edited to add... probably pine tar and linseed oil mixture... and some other components.....

I will find out what is used later on...

R

[2MeterTroll]

Tell him those are real nice work. and if you could pass a couple of questions on to him?
1>will burl wood work on the cheeks?
2>where does he get his pin stock?
3>are those blocks bearing'ed with smaller pin stock or just the pin?
4>where does he get his sheaves.

I can think of more questions but those will do.
Thank you.

[RodB]

Tell him those are real nice work. and if you could pass a couple of questions on to him?
1>will burl wood work on the cheeks?
2>where does he get his pin stock?
3>are those blocks bearing'ed with smaller pin stock or just the pin?
4>where does he get his sheaves.
5>What kind of sheaves are they?

I can think of more questions but those will do.
Thank you.

I'll answer what I can....

blocks just have a pin...
Sheaves are machine from delrin... I do not know the supplier...but fairly simple parts.
Bob should see this and hopefully will comment.

RodB

[2MeterTroll]

Thanks RodB

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
... whereas these are made from (one-piece, not laminated) merbau -- tougher than elm, but not quite as hard as lignum vitae.

http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au/public/deadeyes.jpg

[PeterSibley]

What characteristics are you looking for in a timbers to be used as a deadeye body ? Interlocked grain and resistance to spliting , any others ?

[Dave Lesser]

Would the osage orange that Bob has used for the hatches also be suitable for blocks?

[RodB]

I don't see why not...from my limited use of Osage, I think of it as a "super wood"....

RodB

[Woxbox]

I can't find the reference now, but the Sultana may have Osage blocks. Almost all of the rest of the boat is made of Osage and they seem to be happy with it.

http://www.sultanaprojects.org/schoonersultana.htm

[paladin]

The Osage will be around when all else is gone. Fence posts that granddad put down are still there, and the spokes and wheel sections to the farm wagons are still funtional, long after much of the oak has been replaced. I used it for small blocks.

[ssor]

Osage will out last Black locust by many years and black locust outlasts granite by about five years.

[almeyer]

Thanks for the pictures, Rod. Those blocks and deadeyes are beautiful. Bob does fantastic work.
Al

[Wiley Baggins]

Thanks (to you and Bob Albers) for sharing this!

[goodbasil]

This is what I call a sexy post.

[Vinny&Shawn]

I have some sheaves that I would like to put into some blocks. The design and construction of the blocks shown here are quite simple and secure.
When making up the strop and thimble are they all served as shown or can you just leave them with bare rope?
Are the strops made to size and then pushed on over the block?
How tight?

[Peerie Maa]

I have some sheaves that I would like to put into some blocks. The design and construction of the blocks shown here are quite simple and secure.
When making up the strop and thimble are they all served as shown or can you just leave them with bare rope?
Are the strops made to size and then pushed on over the block?
How tight?

Service was to protect natural fibre from rot and chafe, so it is up to you whether you use it now. The diameter of the strop needs to be so that it fits snug in the groves in the block after the round seizing is clapped on between the block and the thimble.

[Woxbox]

Are the strops made to size and then pushed on over the block?
How tight?


Super tight. You want to put the seizing on after the strop is over the block. Stretch the strop out and then work the seizing in as close to the block as you can get it, working it with as much tension as the line will comfortably take. This isn't something you want to come apart at a critical moment. If you can get the strop off again without cutting off the seizing first, then it's not tight enough.

[RodB]

The deadeyes mentioned earlier... finally completed... thought a few more pics of deadeyes and some blocks might be of interest.... The deadeyes will end up being coated with a mixture of pine tar and oil... etc...??

Here, the curved slot ( for rope) for the top deadeye compares to the flat slot for metal band... (bottom deadeye).

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/deadeyesedgescloseup-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/deadeyesgroupedgesshown-72.jpg

Coated with linseed oil, ready to be sent to rigger... Note the stopper knot hole on the upper deadeyes (radius slot). Lots of work represented here...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/deadeyesdoneoverheadview-72.jpg

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Heres a couple of blocks (multiple router jig setups) from a single piece... of Lignum Vitae... both single and a double... These are some of the blocks to be used on Peterson's Schooner "Susan"...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/LigVblockdoublecloseup-72.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Ligvitblocknicelite-72.jpg

A closeup of the grommet tied...

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/grommettieddoubleblockligvit-72.jpg

[RodB]

1>will burl wood work on the cheeks?
2>where does he get his pin stock?
3>are those blocks bearing'ed with smaller pin stock or just the pin?
4>where does he get his sheaves.
5>What kind of sheaves are they?

Pin stock custom ordered... no source mentioned....

Blocks bearing'ed with just stainless pins...

Sheaves are custom machined ... no source mentioned...

Sheaves are delrin...

RodB

[2MeterTroll]

thanks RodB

[Steveh]

Have seen some of the block pics in previous threads. Seem to remember mention of simmering the block in linseed oil (boiled or raw?) for several hours and then finished off with bees wax?

Am about to start on some blocks myself, some out of black locust (one piece) others with glued Ash. Was going to fasten with copper roves but notice these blocks are glued with a wooden pin. Does the wooden pin go right through the block cheeks from side to side?

Rob, do you have a recipe for the tar linseed mix. Am using the slush mix out of Brion Toss 'Riggers Apprentice' for serving and would be keen to use similarly on the blocks.

Edited to say, "these are beautiful looking blocks BTW. Inspirational and certainly convinced me to have a go at making my own".

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
A few more of Bob's blocks, these being early ones with (I understand) bronze sheaves --

http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au/public/albers-blocks.jpg

It seems a pity if the sheaves are now only delrin, but in any case he doesn't seem to want to market the blocks outside the US.

Mike

[RodB]

Does the wooden pin go right through the block cheeks from side to side?

Yes...

No formula mix for the tar/linseed .... sorry

RodB

[paladin]

I used pure boiled linseed oil in a crock pot set to low, then submerged the blocks inside held down with diving weights, and "cooked" 24-36 hours, wiped clean, waxed with beeswax...I would suggest getting your own crock pot at a yard sale.....

[RodB]

A few more medium sized Oak blocks at the Albers shop, coated with pine tar...then shipped to client.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/blocksoakpinetarredset-72.jpg

The pine tar is cut just a little with some turps... per clients request.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/pinetarapplicationblock-72.jpg

You wouldn't think this is Oak.... looks so dark.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Oakmidsizeblockspinetarred-72.jpg

---------------------------------------------------------------
I saw some Birdseye Maple the other day and got an idea for a block... I selected the portions of the board to allow for a good location for the wood figure. I'll post more pics when its done with grooves, twine and thimble. The birdseye maple board only had this nice figure for one good block, I used Texas ebony for the end spacers. The sheave was a mexican hardwood, but too brittle for real use. I will remake the sheave with Ipe, etc.... I will probably varnish it and hand rub the finish... gotta be careful cutting the grooves.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/blockbirdseye-72.jpg

Here is a smaller Honduras Mahogany block and the Birdseye block with the sheave I made.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/blockbirdseye4-72.jpg

The other side of the block. A simple fun project.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/blockbirdseyepartsnice-72.jpg

RodB

[Steveh]

Wow, amazing looking grain.

[River Sailor]

Very inspiring, Rob (and Bob). Thanks.

[ulav8r]

Beautiful workmanship but the wood is spalted maple, not birdseye. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spalting#Commonly_Spalted_Woods http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bird's_eye_figure



"Here is a smaller Honduras Mahogany block and the Birdseye block with the sheave I made.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/blockbirdseye4-72.jpg
"

[Peerie Maa]

Beautiful workmanship but the wood is spalted maple, not birdseye. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spalting#Commonly_Spalted_Woods http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bird's_eye_figure



"Here is a smaller Honduras Mahogany block and the Birdseye block with the sheave I made.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/blockbirdseye4-72.jpg
"

Soak that spalted block in rot killer. Spalting is the sign of fungal infection that is the onset of rot. Pretty though.

[Bernadette]

before i read up on the link to spalted timber (which i found very interesting) i figured the blocks merely had rot or sapwood in their construction. whilst it does look good to some people, i personally would not like to use them. i only see inferior grade timber there and i would be on the lookout for block failure.

[PeterSibley]

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/Prestoboat/Albersblocknoengravingsmallone.jpg


Agreed about the spalting, pretty in domestic cabinets but it has no place in a block.

The one above would look good in red stringybark.

[Bernadette]

yes i agree peter. i do like bob's work though.

[RodB]

The spalted maple block was made for looks, not to be used.

RodB

[PeterSibley]

OK, I've never seen a block made not to be used but it would look nice as a trophy .