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View Full Version : Transom damage.



bobkaschak
07-08-2002, 08:30 AM
Well, I am going to attempt to post a photo here of the transom on my 12' day sailer. There are a lot of stripped screw holes where the rudder had been mounted to the transom in various places over the years. Should I just mount a block, say 3'4' thick, 6" x 12" to the transom, and then mount the rudder to it? Expansion / contraction issues? Grain direction? Comments? Suggestions?

Regards,
Bob K.

[IMGhttp://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid25/p7bdde2c40f52124e44ba10ee8f051449/fd900203.jpg/IMG]

bobkaschak
07-08-2002, 08:39 AM
[IMG]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid25/p7bdde2c40f52124e44ba10ee8f051449/fd900203.jpg[IMG]

Chris Coose
07-08-2002, 08:42 AM
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid25/p7bdde2c40f52124e44ba10ee8f051449/fd900203.jpg
Bob, you need to bac slash in the closing img.
Example photo properties here

[ 07-08-2002, 09:45 AM: Message edited by: Chris Coose ]

Bruce Hooke
07-08-2002, 09:08 AM
I would make some wood plugs to fill the holes and epoxy them in place. Then you can screw the rudder fittings on where they belong and not add another piece of wood, which would probably mess up the looks of the transom as well as cause shrinkage and expansion problems. If you are careful in making the plugs you can make the work fairly inconspicuous. However, I am a bit concerned about why the screws keep stripping out. It suggests that the screws in question are not large enough for the job they are doing (or that the pilot holes were too large to start with, or that rot weakened the wood around the screw holes). Would it be possible to use longer screws without going through the transom? Thicker screws would also help but since I expect you are screwing on metal fittings with cast holes that probably isn't an option. Bolts might be another option but then you would have nuts on the inside of the transom, which might not be desirable. With some careful work you could make recesses for the nuts to sit in and then cut the bolts off flush with the inside face of the transom.

NormMessinger
07-08-2002, 09:24 AM
Screws? Hmmmm...

Can you put a backup piece inside the transom then bed and bolt the rudder in place. 'Course then if the rudder comes off it would take your transom with ti and that wouldn't be good now wood it?

--Norm

Chris Coose
07-08-2002, 09:30 AM
Slather appropriate bedding compound on all attachments.
Backing blocks on the inside sounds lots better than outboard attachments if solid screwing cannot be had.

bobkaschak
07-08-2002, 10:02 AM
The stripped out holes are pretty deep, and I am not sure why they were not holding well in the past (maybe run "a ground" too much! The rudder was held on by classic style tapered wood screws (which I am not fond of, due to the fact that once they get worked a bit loose, they come right out), as opposed to a straight shank. I would like to not mess with the inside of the transom if at all possible, because it looks pretty nice.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid25/pb0fd711784a12a75503474a192077c96/fd8feb69.jpg

NormMessinger
07-08-2002, 10:35 AM
Okay then, there is the Gougeon Bros method of mounting hardware. Drill an oversized hole, not quite as deep as the machine screw is long with a pilot hole for the screw at the bottom. Fill the hole with slurry (epoxy and colodial silica) "screw" the hardware down snug with machine screw into the pilot hole. When the epoxy has cured you'll rip off the transom before the screws pulls out. (Lousy description great method)

--Norm

Todd Bradshaw
07-08-2002, 11:57 AM
There are multiple instances of proof here that the screws don't do the job. Why repeat the experiment again? Cut a nice piece of mahogany for a back-up or get some big washers and through-bolt the gudgeons on. If you had a double-ender or canoe, you might have to use screws - but at least they would take the strain in shear. The way this thing was done is just asking for trouble and obviously doesn't work.