White vs Red revisited

[CyberRebel]

So I'm skimming through Chapelle's Boatbuilding for the thousandth time, and I come across this:

"Mixed primer can be made by dissolving pure white lead with turps, stirred until smooth. The mixture should be fairly thick. Add a little red lead, enough to make the mixture a light pink. When ready to use, add linseed oil in the same quantity as the turps used."

So again I'm confused by the differences between white and red lead. Why would one add red lead to this mix... was Chapelle just partial to pink??? I figure it must have some practical purpose, but I don't see it.

[Ian G Wright]

The pink shade is there so that you can tell when you have sanded too much undercoat off,,,,,,,,,,!

Really.
I don't mix my own paint any more butI find it helpful to have a slight difference in shade between the coats. So, starting with bare wood I use two coats of metalic primer, pink or grey. Then one undercoat, white with Owetrol is light cream, then sand to define those dings, sratches or low spots that need filler/ trowel cement.
Sand the filler patches then a further under coat, sand again and re-fill as neededunless your eyes are better than mine, and they probably are, continue undercoating, filling and sanding until smooth as a babies bum. Then one coat of 50/50 udercoat and gloss top coat, and finally one coat of top coat. Finally that is if there are no runs, holidays, grit or small animals on display.
Once a year should be enough.

IanW.

[David Kippen]

Okay, I'll bite. I've been watching this thread, hoping someone would volunteer just where it is one can buy red lead or white lead paint--not the kind you'd paint the bottom with, the kind you'd paint two pieces of wood you're going to screw together. Any suggestions?

[Matt J.]

David,
www.kirbypaint.com (http://www.kirbypaint.com)

red and white leads, as well as really nice topsides paints and other stuff.

[Scott Rosen]

Yes for Kirby. Call George Kirby directly at (508) 997-9008. He'll have exactly what you're looking for.

You may also want to check out his selection of bottom paints. I used some on my dinghy this year and it's great stuff. Easy to apply, smooth hard finish and great color. And no growth after an entire season. I'm going to use it on Patience next year. Plus, it's half the price of Interlux, etc.

[Scott Rosen]

Ian's method of painting takes lots of experience. The novice trying that method will probably end up doing this:

Apply one coat primer to bare wood.
Sand off one coat primer to bare wood.
Apply second coat primer.
Sand off second coat primer to bare wood.
Apply third coat primer.
Sand off third coat primer to bare wood.
Apply enamel coat to bare wood.
Observe uneven color and covering and admit that it looks like sh*t.
Run out of time.
Slop on too thick coat of primer.
Sand it the same day before it dries properly.
Stop sanding after ruining 30 sheets of paper and only completing 10% of the job.
Say f**k it and slop on too thick coat of enamel.
Go sailing.

[Ian G Wright]

Originally posted by Scott Rosen:
Ian's method of painting .I forgot,,,,,, get the bare wood as smooth and fair as a maidens blush and never ever sand the first coats of primer. It's there to keep the water out. If you do sand through the primer then STOP and prime the bare spot then and there. Twice.
Scott said what he said after watching my first efforts no doubt.
After a while it gets better, even(if the weather is kind) fun. Mostly. And after the first sucessful time a good sand, undercoat and top coat will do.
If you can afford it get a well lit, warm, draught free shed.

IanW.

[CyberRebel]

Well, this is off-topic for my own discussion, but here's another question for ya. How will Kirby's paints work over (gulp!) fiberglass (Whew! There, I said it!)??? I'm building a Stevenson's Weekender which will be covered in the "f" word and epoxy (otherwise known as googe and/or snot on this forum). I like the looks of the samples I got from Kirby's, and I'd like to have the honor of supporting a fine, family institution such as theirs. So, what's the verdict... is it okay to use? Or should I go with a nice plasticky look like Brightsides instead?

[CyberRebel]

Just moving this back to the top. smile.gif

[Art Read]

Rebel... For what it's worth, I painted the Dynel/epoxy over plywood "trunk cabin" on my project with Kirby's "Sand". Took a bit longer to dry, but covered fine and looks great. I'd test it first though...

[Scott Rosen]

Art,

I just painted my home deck (backyard) with Kirby's sand. Nice color.

[CyberRebel]

I just don't want to find that the paint won't stick or something. I'll talk to George or somebody prior to ordering. I prefer the traditional looking paint to the super-duper-ultra-mega-hi-gloss stuff. While what I'm building is glass over plywood, the design is very traditional looking. I'd rather it doesn't end up looking like plastic... thus my reasoning behind using Kirby's paint. Besides that, I would rather have my money go to a Mom & Pop sort than a corporation. I like the colors Kirby's offers too. I'll probably go with Bottle Green for the hull, White on the cabin sides, cockpit area and between the rubrails, and some sort of buff for the deck and cabin roof.