Latex Paint for Interior of Skiff?

[Steve Miller, Jr]

I am close to finishing my first boat, a 16 foot flat bottom center console skiff, Stitch and glue, Okoume ply, stripped mahogany sheer rail and fore deck with ash inwale and rubrail. Mahogany and ash accented bench seats . Everything is sheathed in System 3 epoxy and Fib...lass... all fillets taped, I have seriously overbuilt this thing, and feel I have achieved a fairly high level of quality for a 1st attempt. For the exterior of the hull, I used a two part LPU from System 3, and it came out beautiful, even wet sanded with 2000 grit and then buffed, you can see yourself! Since the search function doesn't work, my question is: can I and should I paint the interior of the hull with a high quality latex paint? There are several reasons I am thinking of not using the LPU on the interior. 1. Pain in the transom dealing with primer, recoat times, etc. 2. With all the nook and crannies, I think I want the ease of just slapping on a coat of paint in a few years to keep it looking decent, not having to sand the gloss off the LPU. 3. It is going to be a fishing, family knockabout boat not a museum piece and I want to get on the water! So... can I and should I paint the epoxy coated interior of the hull with a high quality latex paint? Should I use Primer? Brand suggestions? One other item, Should I do a Drain tube in the transom? If you all have any thoughts... I have really appreciated everyones expertise on all the topics posted in this forum, I have spent countless hours soaking up all your knowledge, Thank you!

[ScottO12_3]

Steve,

I'm a fan of Valspar top side marine paint, it's not latex but neither LPU. Maybe a happy medium? I've only painted one boat,inside and out, (ACX 12' day sailer -- Seafood). Hasn't checked through (1 year) the finish seems very durable. In my limited experience this is the best paint I've ever used.
-sos

[JimD]

I used latex for the inside of mine. Works fine. Don't go too shiney or you'll go blind on a sunny day, but you already know that. A drain would be a good idea. I don't have one at the moment but fitting one is on the to do list.

[High C]

What Jim D said. I have a little sailer with latex in and out. It's great, looks good, and is very durable, except on the bottom. I'll be putting some real bottom point on her soon.

[brad9798]

Latex is fine.

Hell, my house gets a lot more weather than my boat... and it's fine for the house!

I use for all topside painting.

MUCH less expensive, easy to apply, durable, etc.

Any pix of that boat????

[Steve Miller, Jr]

Yes, I do have some pictures, but I don't know how to post pictures. If anyone wants to put them up for me it would be great, I could email them. As for the paint...Will the latex stick to the epoxy if lightly sanded? Any suggestions for brands of latex? Has anyone used Sherwin williams Durations? Can I use the antiskid granules with latex? I have so many questions! You guys are the best!

[JimD]

Steve, I just emailed you. Send me the pics and I'll post them for you.

[dmede]

Steve,

I painted the putside of my glued lap canoe with latex acrylic house paint. Works great overall but I would try latex porch paint next tiem around. The regular house paint chalks up quickly. No detriment to its protection but it looks old fast. The porch paint may keep its semi gloss look longer (so I am told).

Make sure you key up the epoxy areas real good before painting, latex does not stick well to smooth epoxy./

good luck.

dave

[JimD]

Pics of Steve's boat :cool:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid177/p97c95ad1550c1e60db693c3648b276e7/f34693e9.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid177/pcdc6e134380a915982ee290e69533c80/f3469302.jpg

[Keith Wilson]

I've had very good luch with latex porch and floor paint for the inside of small boats. It's considerably harder than ordinary house paint and handles abrasive wear much better. It a bit thinner and tends to run more on vertical surfaces (it's floor paint, after all), but not too badly.

Latex sticks fine to sanded epoxy. No latex has the drying problems that some alkyd paints will when painted over epoxy.

[ 07-13-2005, 11:43 AM: Message edited by: Keith Wilson ]

[TomMcKinney]

I had good results on a work skiff with latex non-skid paint from, I hate to admit it, Wal Mart. Wasn't to agressive a non-skid and one less operation, no sand no grit, just paint it on.
Tom

[Venchka]

That's a fine boat. For an extra $10-$20 or so you could get Kirby's semi-gloss marine in any color you can dream up. Real boat paint for a real boat.

http://www.kirbypaint.com/images/color_chart_small.jpg

Kirby Paint (http://www.kirbypaint.com/index.html)

George will send it right to you.

Splurge! Your efforts are worth it.

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

[Steve Miller, Jr]

JimD, Thanks for posting the pictures for me. I knew I should have cleaned the garage and the dust off the boat before taking pictures! Is the kirby's paint a two part or what is the deal with application. How much more durable is it than latex? As for the drain tube what do you all think?

[Venchka]

Originally posted by Steve Miller, Jr:
...Is the kirby's paint a two part or what is the deal with application. How much more durable is it than latex? It's just good, old fashioned oil based paint. Thin it. Put on 3-4 coats. A little goes a long way. Done. You might want the porch paint for walking surfaces.

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

[Steve Miller, Jr]

I know you are a proponent of Kirby's paint, could I use an oil based porch paint from the hardware store? Now I am getting confused! Latex, Oil based, Kirby's or LPU, oh my head?

[Venchka]

Dunno. Call George. He may have a porch paint too. I know he makes house paint. As long as you aren't putting one over the other, does it matter?

I'm not alone. Many here are fans of Kirby's Paint. How often do you get to buy good products from the same family who have been in the same business since forever, eh? smile.gif

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

[Gary E]

Originally posted by Steve Miller, Jr:
my question is: can I and should I paint the interior of the hull with a high quality latex paint? There are several reasons I am thinking of not using the LPU on the interior. 1. Pain in the transom dealing with primer, recoat times, etc. 2. With all the nook and crannies, I think I want the ease of just slapping on a coat of paint in a few years to keep it looking decent, not having to sand the gloss off the LPU. 3. It is going to be a fishing, family knockabout boat not a museum piece and I want to get on the water! So... can I and should I paint the epoxy coated interior of the hull with a high quality latex paint?WOW !!!!that is one fine looking boat....

If it was me, anyone comming within 20 ft of that with paint would risk at least a broken arm...You allready have the interior protected, so why not just a coat of varnish? To me it would be a real shame to cover that with plain old paint even if it had Geo's name on it.

[Steve Miller, Jr]

Thank you, I am very proud of it so far. What you can't see in the picture is the purple fairing compound used on the scarfs, shear deck supports, the taped fillets, pencil markings, etc., so it really does need to be painted, the mahogany and ash seats and seat rail will be varnished, but most everything else on the interior was planned to be painted and needs it.

[Gary E]

Well ok then, my vote is for a decent porch and deck paint from just about anyplace, last i used was from the corner hardware store.

[Steve Miller, Jr]

Would that be a latex or oil based? Maybe I'll do a few tests on scraps of plywood.

[Gary E]

I have never liked latex, but that's me, so my paint is always oil based. I think the main reason is that oil is more durrable, wont chalk, and I can wash off the fish gutz with the hose.

[ 07-13-2005, 02:54 PM: Message edited by: Gary E ]

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by dmede:
The regular house paint chalks up quickly. No detriment to its protection but it looks old fast.I just want to reiterate this point...regular latex paint WILL chalk up and look old quickly.

I'm of the school that thinks that a few extra bucks spent on paint formulated for marine use is money well spent given the amount of time that will go into applying it. So, if it were me I would probably go with one of Geo. Kirby's marine paints. However, porch paint has clearly worked for other people so if money or time are tight that might be the way to go...

[Gary E]

I do not critize paint made by Geo or anyone else for that mater, but I have allways used name brand paints for several reasons, one being wide acceptance by industry, the other being durability. I use a lot of Benjamin Moore.... put a dot com after that and look. What is it the say about some beer companies?.. Bud spills more beer than the guy in Boston makes?

and ohh by the way, Rustoleum paint works very well on boats.

[ 07-13-2005, 03:41 PM: Message edited by: Gary E ]

[J. Labaree]

A quick vote for Geo. Kirby. I built a 15’ marine ply runabout (open layout, center cockpit) four years ago. I’m lazy, so have only put on one coat of Kirby deck paint on the interior. It doesn’t look perfect after four seasons, but it’s in great shape considering the hard use it sees – rusty anchors, fishing gear, kids, dogs, chain saws, etc. This is the family work boat. The only places the paint is gone is where it got scraped off by one or more of the items listed above. It has not pealed or worn thin. And that’s just one coat. I keep meaning to slap another one on there, but never seem to get around to it before I need the boat in the water. No experience with latex, but don’t want to see Kirby dismissed.

PS. Great boat.

[RodB]

Well, I don't know much about paints and how good they hold up, just what many here have said about Kirbys and of course what I have read over the years. Hell, I posted on having problems with the heat and applying Kirbys...but I can say that I resolved my problems (painting in 80 degrees plus) and my painted console is pretty much dried now in the heat of Texas and I think the finish seems real hard and would seem to be quite tough. It also looks pretty good to me, that semi-gloss light gray. I must say George Kirby sure offers good service. I paid $49/gallon plus shipping.

From looking at your boat, I sure would not want to put latex on it anywhere... expecially when you see good quality oil based paint on a surface. Check out the post on applying Kirbys in the heat, you will see several suggestions on paints. You could always buy a semi-gloss or satin finish Alkyd enamel from one of the larger paint stores and that way you would save some money but still get a non-glossy look. Maybe you want glossy...but I think your boat would look great with a semi-gloss finish.

From my homework most quality Alkyd enamels are quite similar, I think you would get less dryers in the larger companies paints. One recommendation I had was to can pick up a bottle of Colbalt Dryer from an Art Supply store and add a few drops to speed up drying.

I guess the latex is easier to apply and get a good finish than oil based, but you do live in the North East where you can paint under ideal conditions as far as temperature is concerned. Also, I like your idea of painting test panels to compare looks...one a nice semi-gloss alkyd enamel, and one latex and any other paint you want to test. Maybe such a test would make the decision very easy.
RB

[ 07-13-2005, 10:51 PM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[Paul G]

I painted the interior of my boat with LPU, all I can say is what a waste of time and good money. Sure, it will last but when you get a knock or gouge, it is a real pain to touch up. Next time it will be deck paint or marine single pack. After pricing out paints there is virtually no difference between a good quality house paint and marine enamel.

Go for the best single pot paint you can afford.

[Steve Miller, Jr]

Thanks for all the input. I think I'll call Kirby's today and ask a few questions. Any suggestions for colors with the mahogany bench seats finished bright? The wife may get the final decision, but I seem to like the #19 blue, #9 cream, #25 light grey or white.

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by Steve Miller, Jr:
Thanks for all the input. I think I'll call Kirby's today and ask a few questions. Any suggestions for colors with the mahogany bench seats finished bright? The wife may get the final decision, but I seem to like the #19 blue, #9 cream, #25 light grey or white.I personally do not think I would like the look of a light blue interior. White is too bright in the sun. Grey is certainly functional but ussually looks kind of dull to me. Cream sounds to me like a good choice. What about #2 salmon?

[Ed Neal]

Definitely go with Kirbys. Porch paint will work but the color selection is very limited.

I went with Kirby's Cream for my interior. The color contrasted nicely with the brightwork but gave the interior an "old" feeling to it. I then mixed one part Cream with four parts White and got a nice lighter color that gave the interior a bright, fresh look. I painted the thwarts and floorboards in the full strength Cream to add a contrasting, but harmonized color. It looks great and has held up excellently.

[dmede]

Originally posted by Ed Neal:
Porch paint will work but the color selection is very limited.
you should be able to find a place that will mix colors for you. unlimited selection.

[Keith Wilson]

As dmede says, you can get porch and floor paint mixed in any color you like. For that matter, Kirby's will mix up anything within reason as well. Half white and half cream is a nice color that goes wonderfully with their dark blue.
Kirby's is great, very durable, if a bit pricey. Floor paint is OK too, not quite as pretty but a lot cheaper, and water cleanup is good.

You might want to check to see if your epoxy does anything unpleasant to oil-base paint, though. Sometimes it inhibits drying for, like, weeks. I think (although I wouldn't swear to it) this is the result of a slight excess of hardener; the unreacted hardner messes up the metallic dryers in the paint. I haven't had that problem since I started to make sure I always have a slight excess of resin.

[WOODZOWL]

Kudos Steve :cool:
A fine job: A note on the drain; a boat whithout a drain will turn a simple wash job into a real pain in the butt, never mind a rain storm on the trailer... Your almost there! J.M.

[Bob Smalser]

Pretty boat.


Should I do a Drain tube in the transom? http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7910361/104473601.jpg

Before I power wash this boat, I'll add a second drain tube to the other side of the keelson.

When you round the last corner to the marina a week or so after a rainstorm only to see your trailer axles sagging and the tires flat, you'll know what I mean.

Covers fail.

[Steve Miller, Jr]

I have a 1" brass drain tube that I plan on installing, should I drill a 1" hole, slather up in epoxy and install or drill a 1.5" hole, fill with thickened epoxy, then drill a 1" hole through that? Any suggestions appreciated.

[Walcheren]

I love the looks of your foredeck and gunnels?. Can you tell me where I can find some literature on how to do that properly. I have mucked around and I am getting away with it as I am the only one that knows how I did it. That is, with a lot of cheating. A title of a book would be very useful.

[Steve Miller, Jr]

The stripped foredeck and sheer rail is 3/4" X 3/4" mahogany strips. Screwed and nailed to each other. As for the foredeck, I cut the angles close, then clamped the pieces and saw through the mitre, then slide the pieces closer together, cut through again, repeat, repeat, repeat. It makes for a very tight joint, especially since they are compound angles, the deck is slightly curved. I have not seen any books on this subject.