Pre-soaking

[cs]

I've about got my white oak ready to start scarfing for the rub rails. All I've got to do is run them through the planer one time and than I'll be ready to scarf.

Whether or not to steam was discussed in another thread and I've decided not to steam because of the locations of the scarfs. So what I've thought about doing to ease the bending is to soak the oak in water a few days before I scarf them with thickned epoxy.

Does anyone see a problem with this?

Chad

[Dave R]

Chad, why would you soak them in water prior to gluing? I have no idea whether or not the epoxy would stick to the wood but wouldn't it be easier to deal with the wood dry until you're ready to put it in place?

For that matter, do you really think you'll have any troubles bending the rails when it comes time to install them? I guess I'm assuming this is for your Weekender. I had no trouble installing my rails dry on mine.

Keep plugging away and you'll be ready to launch before Christmas.

[Ian McColgin]

Don't try glueing wet oak.

If you're laminating, you should be able to make the curve dry and just build up the layers.

If you're putting it on in one piece depth and width and just scarfing for length consider steaming and clamping the planks into a bend that's a nudge more bend than the final curve and let them dry. It will then hold the shape.

They are just rub rails. You not only don't need a glued scarf, it might be a bad idea. Have an overlap joint with a bit of bedding compound instead. It will look better if you finish bright and be easier to repair if you take a ding.

G'luck

[cs]

Yep Dave this is for the weekender. I was trying to remember what your rails were. I know you told me but I forgot. This is my first time working with white oak, so I'm concerned about how well it bends. I was thinking about soaking it to get the elastisty (sp?).

Ian tell me more about this overlap joint. I think I know what you mean, but go ahead and clarify.

Chad

[Ian McColgin]

Like:

________________________________________________
I_______________________
____________________________________I____________

Ok - looks good but last time I tried this the verticle parts, done with "I's" did not allign correctly.

I do something wrong. Imagine that I on the left pushed right a ways. It's just a flat overlap.

[ 09-29-2003, 04:42 PM: Message edited by: Ian McColgin ]

[George Roberts]

cs ---

Lay them up dry and see how it goes, then decide if you need to bend them wet or not.

[Dave R]

Chad, my upper rail is an upside down L. The stock was 1 x 1-1/2". There's a rabbet plowed in the back that is 1/4" x 1". The rail covers the edge of the side panels and the top edge is 1/2" higher than the sides. My sides were cut down to deck level but this would work for the sides as they are in the plans, too.

The lower rail is 3/4" x 1-1/2" and is essentially rectangular in section.

If the top edge of your side panels has a nice, fair curve you should be able to do the same thing. Personally, I like not having to step over a high rail since there's not much side deck to begin with on a Weekender.

Don't know if this will show or show much. It's the best picture I have where you can see the rail.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid76/p2e17d3a6965731ddf618d80ebf44cc0c/fb43f3d6.jpg.orig.jpg

[JimD]

Like Ian says, soak or steam them, bend them in place wet, overlap laminating is always a good way to go. Let them dry in place, take the clamps off and glue away.

[Bruce Hooke]

I think this is the picture DaveR is trying to show (I got rid of the .orig.jpg at the end of the URL):

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid76/p2e17d3a6965731ddf618d80ebf44cc0c/fb43f3d6.jpg

[Dave R]

thanks Bruce. It showed up for me before so I had no idea that no one else could see it.

And the parrot flew away.

[ 10-01-2003, 11:03 AM: Message edited by: Dave R ]

[cs]

Nice!

I keep going around and around on what I will be doing with my rub rail. One day I want to put in on flush with the deck. Another idea I toy around with is taking the upper rub rail and adding blocks every foot or so and than attaching the rub rail to this. Thus it is raised off of the side of the boat the thickness of the blocks. And some days I want to build a seperate toe rail on the deck.

I'm still waiting on the planer to get back to the office so I can do the final planing of my rail stock.

Chad

[Greg H]

I don't know the Weekender, bt it looks like a fairly gentle crve yo are dealing with. I think the oak shold bend around it ok.
When I did the rails on my Whilly boat (16' double ender) I used ash in 1/2" thickness, scarfed for length on the boat. Two layers brought it up to !" in thickness. It wasn't as hard as I thought.

I do Like Ian's idea though.

Hmmmm, I seem to have a "u" problem....

[ 10-01-2003, 09:25 AM: Message edited by: Greg H ]