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floatingkiwi
02-12-2009, 04:36 PM
I managed to obtain a gallon of fencing stain for free. I was hoping to cover all the bare timber to protect it from drying out too much etc before I get around to priming fairing etc.
Would this be a good or bad thing to do?

bruce w
02-12-2009, 04:41 PM
mix it with a gallon of linseed oil ,if its oil based

Concordia...41
02-12-2009, 05:09 PM
Someone may have a better plan, but I don't think plain stain has any protective abilities when it comes to keeping the wood from drying out.

Why not just put your primer coat on?

Gary E
02-12-2009, 05:25 PM
Yo... dont you have a TARP ???

floatingkiwi
02-12-2009, 05:31 PM
A tarp? yeah, why?
The stain is water base, it will probably do not much good as you say there, aah,Concordia, as for primer, I don't have any Marine primer. Just various other water and oil exterior types.
How about grease or fat, motor oil, or just plain linseed?

Gary E
02-12-2009, 05:36 PM
Ifin youse dont have a TARP
oil could work... best is Extra Virgin Olive

You must bee one of them hoytee toyteee I can spend any amout of money I want for any 1/2assed idea that comes along...

Get it off the ground and cover it wid a TARP...

floatingkiwi
02-12-2009, 05:43 PM
Ifin youse dont have a TARP
oil could work... best is Extra Virgin Olive

You must bee one of them hoytee toyteee I can spend any amout of money I want for any 1/2assed idea that comes along...

Get it off the ground and cover it wid a TARP...

hoytee toyteee ? What are ya talkin about mate? I'm a country boy from New Zealand on a budget of scrounge.Hoytee toytee where I come from means rich and pompous. I am neither.
I have her off the ground suspended in a frame and I'm about to tie the ballast back on with some new bolts I made from junk concrete form 3/4" mild steel rod.Check out my thread, " a folkboat found me", to see where I am at.
Kerry

Larks
02-12-2009, 05:45 PM
Ifin youse dont have a TARP
oil could work... best is Extra Virgin Olive

You must bee one of them hoytee toyteee I can spend any amout of money I want for any 1/2assed idea that comes along...

Get it off the ground and cover it wid a TARP...

What tha?.....Mate haven't you been reading this guys threads? Give him a break, he's been working on a shoestring and as far as I've been able to tell been pretty bloody good at improvising with what he's got so far. Thankfully there are plenty of people with more generous advice than yourself on this forum.

floatingkiwi
02-12-2009, 05:48 PM
Thanks Larks. Maybe this guy could buy ME some paint, seeing that he is inheriting 7,000,000 pounds!!!

Gary E
02-12-2009, 06:03 PM
First thing.. no, I dont read every thread
And if yoor doing on a shoestring, good, congrats..
But then why are you worried about unpainted boards, wether they be raw lumber, or fashioned into boat parts assembled or not and not painted yet?.. They will assume the relative humidity of the area and that's about all you can hope for, painted or not.

floatingkiwi
02-12-2009, 06:10 PM
To prevent cracking.I don't care what they look like colourwise.

Jim Ledger
02-12-2009, 06:16 PM
Stack them with stickers between the boards. Cover them with old plywood or some such, to keep the rain and sun off. Paint the ends with any old oil paint to keep the end grain from starting checks. The fence stain will provide little in the way of a moisture barrier for this use.

Larks
02-12-2009, 06:26 PM
First thing.. no, I dont read every thread
And if yoor doing on a shoestring, good, congrats..
But then why are you worried about unpainted boards, wether they be raw lumber, or fashioned into boat parts assembled or not and not painted yet?.. They will assume the relative humidity of the area and that's about all you can hope for, painted or not.

Gary, here's the link if you are interested, it's been a pretty prominent thread for the last few weeks
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88325

RFNK
02-12-2009, 06:37 PM
I think you're talking about the planking already on the boat aren't you Kerry? Your planks aren't going to crack up at this stage of their lives but you'll get surface checking if they're exposed to sun, especially as the weather warms up over there, so a tarp (use cheap polytarp) is probably the best thing. Make up some sort of frame to keep it off the boat and out of your way. If you put paint etc. on the planking now, you're only going to need to sand it all off again anyway. Your planks are going to need a lot of filling as they're already quite damaged from age and neglect, so you're going to need to use an epoxy-based filler if you want a smooth hull. If you start putting oils etc. on the planks now, you'll increase the chances that the epoxy won't bond. It's also no good putting epoxy on now as it breaks down if it's not covered with UV protective paint. So, it's best to leave the planking alone but shade the boat with tarps placed on some sort of frame over the boat. Rick PS I think Gary was just kidding ...

David G
02-12-2009, 08:39 PM
fk - I wouldn't risk it with the stain anyway. Some of those stains include silicone in the formula - which is the last thing you want to put on wood that will be painted later.

floatingkiwi
02-12-2009, 09:46 PM
Yeah, thanks for the help guys, Rick, is epoxy filler the only one I can use, I was gonna stick with one brand,Interlux. Is their filler and fairing compound epoxy based?
And yes, I am talkin about an already built boat and yes, of course it is and has been covered for some time now.
I noticed some checking in the keel inside. Nothing bad, but , knowing I wasn't needing to stick anything to it later, I poured the oils off an old tin of settled paint to keep it from gettin worse. As for the planks. I will prime first then fair, sand, fair, sand, fair, sand, prime, sand, fair, sand, prime, prime ,prime, before painting a bit down the track.
I'll keep the fence stain for a bloody fence, eh?

RFNK
02-12-2009, 10:16 PM
It probably is - it depends which Interlux product you have. If it's Interfill, then it's epoxy. Don't put anything on the planks until after you put the filler on and don't put the filler on until you've repaired all damage from fasteners etc. to the planks. The epoxy will bond really well to the wood unless there's paint, oil, dirt etc. on the wood. Sand it rough (60-80 grit) but get it as smooth as you can, then add enough filler so that you can get it perfectly smooth - doesn't matter if you cover the whole plank with filler but try to avoid going over the joins between planks, as these will shift when you're back in the water. You want to avoid cracking the epoxy filler as this will lift your finish off, including antifoul. IF you decide to try to saturate the planks with epoxy prior to filling, don't bother with any of these so-called penetrating products. Heat up the planks one at a time with a heat gun and then paint it with epoxy resin. This will give you some penetration. If you do this and don't want to sand afterwards, then put your filler on in less than 24 hours or, better, while the epoxy resin is still tacky. It's a lot easier to sand filler and a chemical bond is always going to be better. It doesn't matter if you do all this one plank at a time. By the way, it's a lot cheaper to buy epoxy resin and mix your own filler using microballoons. Any of the suppliers will give you instructions - it's very easy. Rick

floatingkiwi
02-12-2009, 10:29 PM
Bloody hell.
1.is filler and fairing compound the same thing?
2.Should primer, not paint, primer, go on the wood before, filler fairing comp, whatever?
3.when you talk of epoxy resin to penetrate the boards, you mean straight resin, no catalyst, no cabosil, nothing right, just resin straight outa the tin?
I am pretty good at gettin things straight and smooth. I have spent years with bodywork and drywall etc. My right hand is kinda shaped like a trowel actually, and when I go ....never mind.
Anyway ,it is something that cannot be taught by words, but it is funny watching you try,(not that you are no good at it), and your efforts are appreciated.
It is just the order of unfamiliar products I don't want to waste time with, that I wanna get right so I don't waste whatever funds I CAN get my hands on, by taking the stuff of again, for a successful chem bond,( if needed),and longevity with looks.
I am hoping your reply will go like this
1.yes
2.yes
3.yes
Thanks mate.

RFNK
02-12-2009, 11:08 PM
Filler and fairing compound are often the same thing. With epoxy resin, you add filler for different purposes. There are glue fillers which are the strongest and impossible to sand. There are soft fairing fillers which are easy to sand. There are `in-between' fillers that are used for fillets where strength is necessary but sanding is important. Use epoxy resin with glue filler to do all your repairs, joing etc. Use resin without any filler to seal timber, especially the edges of plywood but also good to use to stop plywood surfaces from checking. Use fairing filler (resin with microballoons mixed in) after that. Then use your primers etc., for painting.

When people talk about using filler to fill grain, checking etc., they usually mean fairing filler. Go to the West System website and look up their instructions. They are excellent and very comprehensive. Don't use any pre-mixes. It's much more economical to mix your own. You just have to make sure you're reasonably careful with the quantity measuring. I don't use pumps either. They don't work. Use those little plastic measuring cups that your mother used to give you worm medicine in. Just keep one for resin and one for hardener. Mix the resin in whatever old but clean containers you have. Use a dust mask when mixing fillers unless you want to sound like Louis Armstrong. Rick

Plumbtex
02-12-2009, 11:47 PM
Rick,
I think you might have missed that he was asking if you meant that he should apply straight resin with out catalyst to the planks.
Bad Idea I think
Chris

RFNK
02-13-2009, 12:24 AM
You're right, I did miss that! Thanks Chris! Kerry, resin applied to wood etc. ALWAYS means mixed resin i.e., resin plus hardener, and only epoxy resin. Don't use polyester (the stuff used to make surfboards). Resin without hardener will never harden - don't ever put this on the boat! Sorry, resin is just a lazy way of saying `mixed epoxy resin' and you only add filler (glue or fairing balloons or any other filler) to mixed resin. Mix the resin well before you add the filler.

So, to actually answer your question Kerry (instead of speed reading while I do some work here):
1. Pretty much but there are differences
2. No, use the epoxy products first as they really like to bond with wood but hate everything else
3. No - resin without hardener is useless

Rick