ACU-ARC for frame repairs?

[Jagermeister]

Highland Hardware (aka www.tools-for-woodworking.com) (http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com)) has a fairing curve called an ACU-ARC. Available in up to 6', it supposedly can be bent to a fair curve, and it will hold the shape. A little like the lead curves, but lighter, longer, and without kinking.

I have quite a bit of frame replacement ahead of me, none over 6', and I'd like to pre build them by laminate in a jig. I was resigned to making patterns using thin ply to transfer the existing frame shapes to my jig, but after reading about this ACU-ARC, I'm wondering if it might be a sight easier.

So, does anyone have any experience with this gizmo (or is it a gadget?) Good, bad, or indifferent? Thanks in advance.

This URL thingy never seems to work for me, but if it did this time, here is the link to the ARC-ARC:
ACU-ARC (http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6217)

[Spissgatter W-9]

Haven't used one but one question to ask retailer is whether it can form compound curves. I don't know what your frames look like but mine curve one way then another. Doing each independently and trying to combine on template seems problematic to locate precisely start of one and end of other.

Woodworkers Supply (www.woodworker.com) has a "reshapable template" of various lenghts up to 107". Much more expensive than the one you are asking about but will do compound curves. Of course there is always the tik stik method. I will be interested in reading about your choice and experience. Good luck

[Noah]

I have a short one of those. Probably only 24" or so. It works pretty well, but doesn't really "lock" in place very well. I'm not sure it would hold true in the time it would take you to get it out of the boat, onto the bench and traced. Perhaps the new ones are a bit stiffer though.

Let me know how it goes,

Noah

[Noah]

I should add that compound curves wouldn't be a problem with the ACU-ARC. It handles them just fine.

[Al Kahawl]

Ya kudnt uz it ta make da bendin jig cuz it wont compinsate fer springbak. Perhpz dem dat nowz moor den me kin advize ya on dat asspek

[Jagermeister]

Thanks for all the info. That "reshapeable template" looks like it would lock pretty well, but you aren't kidding about "much more expensive".

I too wonder about the ACU-ARC holding the curve from boat to jig. Because it works as a stack of plastic laminates I was thinking about wrapping pieces of masking tape around the form in the boat to help it hold the setting. If it can almost hold on its own, I thought the tape might give it just enough stability to get to the jig. I have LOTS of frames to replace, and given the cost difference between having the boat in the yard ($300/mo) and at the dock ($150/mo), it really makes sense to prefabricate as much of my work as possible before hauling. Besides, who can resist the homey smell of epoxy on those cold winter nights?

As far as the springback question, wouldn't frames laminated in place have the same amount of springback pressure as those laminated to the jig? Or, is it the case where once removed from the jig, and allowed to open up, they can't be forced back to the proper curve? I'm planning on 5 plys of 3/16 white oak to laminate 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 frames, using Smith & Co. tropical wood epoxy, because of its greater tollerance of wood oils. With 5 layers, I would think springback would be pretty limited.

These frames are all in the midships area, so bevel is virtually non-existent.

The existing frames are 1 x 1 steamed oak, but given the number and locations of failure I think the boat was under-framed. (The continuing article on reconstruction in this month's WoodenBoat talks a bit about determining if the original construction was adequate or not. On that basis, I think my boat's framing is a little under par.)

So, that's my story so far. BTW, if anyone has a good line on a 14" bandsaw in the S.F. Bay Area, let me know. Other than that, I'm raring to go!

[ 10-06-2005, 04:33 PM: Message edited by: Jagermeister ]

[Thorne]

I'll also be going to Smith & Co. - the woife works about 100 yards away.

Here's a 14" bandsaw on SF Bay craigslist -
http://www.craigslist.org/eby/tls/101619373.html

14 ridgid wood bandsaw - $300 (pittsburg / antioch)
Reply to: anon-101619373@craigslist.org
Date: 2005-10-03, 11:44AM PDT

14" ridgid wood bandsaw has never been used . bought it for 450.00 and was gonna use it for metal but bought a better one instead so first come , first serve for 300.00 . ask for bruce 925 250 1107

[Rick Tyler]

Originally posted by Al Kahawl:
Ya kudnt uz it ta make da bendin jig cuz it wont compinsate fer springbak. Perhpz dem dat nowz moor den me kin advize ya on dat asspekDear Santa,

For Christmas I want a content filter for forums.

Thank you,

Rick

[outofthenorm]

Just wanted to reinforce what was said above. I have several of these in different lengths. They're a great drawing tool for fairing and they do conform to complex curves. But they don't hold the curve well enough to transfer from boat to bench. I tried doing what you suggested with tape to hold the shape but I never felt I could trust it and I ended up going back and forth too many times. I think the old way is still the better way.

- Norm