Fein Multimaster

[Jeremy Burnett]

I was thinking of getting one of these to use the scraper to remove bottom paint from my boat.Does anyone have views on this, would it do the job?

[Graham Knight]

I just received a leaflet on this tool from Axminster, I guess maybe you did too?
I have to say I've never been too impressed by these multitools, they rarely have the guts to perform one function properly let alone several, although this one does look better made than most I've seen and used. It still only has a 180W motor though which isn't very much.
If I were you I'd save my money and buy a decent hot air gun and a scraper, it'll do the job just as well if not better.

[Dan McCosh]

The Fein scraper is a kind of sharpened putty knife that wobbles back and forth with a cutting action. It works great for trimming flexible caulking, etc. It wouldn't work for scraping the bottom--the action is all wrong.

[Bob Cleek]

The Fein Multimaster is one of the more useful electric tools you can own. Expensive, but worth it (except for the attachments, which are outrageously expensive, but easily homemade.) It is particularly good at side cutting with the saw attachment and for detail sanding.

That said, FORGET using it to scrape bottom paint. What you need is a hand propane torch and a good triangle scraper (metal so it won't burn under the torch.) If you can't rent/borrow/own the torch, use a heat gun, but the going will be much slower.

Work from bottom upwards, leading the scraper with the torch. You should be able to develop a rythim. As the torch heats ahead and above, you follow with the scraper, torch in one hand and scraper in the other. This is the only way to remove bottom paint that makes any sense. This is how the pros do it. You should too.

[Jeremy Burnett]

Thanks for the replies I think I'll save the money.Bob I have used the torch/gun method on enamel paint but wonder about the fumes when heating antifoul.

[John B]

Its a job I'm dreading, last time I did it was mid 80's. The torch and scraper worked fine.. you get on a go as you heat the area in front of the scraper and the blade takes on the heat. You're exactly right though, the fumes would worry me now. You'd need to set up a good mask for that.Perhaps even set up a fan to blow it away from you.
I've seen a boat blasted with some sort of soda waterblasting...looked satisfactory but I couldn't bring myself to do that to my own boat. Too much danger of damage to my mind.
Another method you could think about investigating is a compressor and air sander so you can wet sand the stuff off with a machine. A friend of mine just did this and he says its a good method.

[Bob Cleek]

Wet sanding can get really messy... think red bottom paint mud! It works, though.

As for fumes, yep, they're nasty, but much less so than sanding dust if you dry sand. You do the work on a (hopefully) windy day and stay upwind of the work. If there's no wind, get a powerful fan and set it up behind you.

Also, with the torch, it is good to find and use a pair of welder's gloves. These have leather gauntlet arm protectors that run up to the elbow. When burning under the turn of the bilge, the hot melted scrapings will fall down on your hands and arms. The gloves protect you from a bunch of small nasty burns... which I have had because I was too lazy to get the gloves! But only once.

[Scott Rosen]

Around here, the enviro-cops wouldn't let you wet-sand bottom paint unless you had some way to catch the runoff and dispose of it 'properly' (i.e., when no one is looking).

Another alternative is a heavy-duty RO sander with dust removal. Use 36 grit paper and be very, very careful.

[John B]

He used a Rupes RO air sander with the hose running on it the whole time so there was no mud. My yard has a sump for the runoff. He did his job at the viaduct basin( the old AC bases) where you aren't allowed to dry sand . I assume since it was a purpose built yachting facility that it has sumps too.

[ 10-02-2005, 04:24 PM: Message edited by: John B ]

[Jay Greer]

I use an air sander that I got from a auto pro paint supply. It has a water spray attachment that makes it work great. I wear foulies and a diving mask!

[Adamant]

Use a metal shank scraper if using heat. The plastic ones melt and the wood ones charr.

[Al Kahawl]

Dis mite bee a gud job fer wonodem gizmoz dat uze infrared heeter toobs. I nowz der iz a mache yer own on da web sumwher. Ya kind by dem, but dey iz way spendsive.

Da Fein - way cool tule

[ 10-03-2005, 12:41 AM: Message edited by: Al Kahawl ]

[bischoffboatworks]

Sorry for slight deviation from subject, but the Fein is pretty incredible. I got carpal tunnel syndrome in both hands scraping out chalk to redo my teak decks (several thousand feet of seams). I have since discovered the Fein Multimaster and it's attachment for cleaning out those grooves. Way cool. Also for sanding the planks between frames on a Whitehall. Sweet.

[Bob Adams]

I bought my Fien 20 years ago, around my shop it became known as the "Wonderwhattzit". It is, however, not suitable for the job you have in mind. I avoid bottom sanding, I use self polishing paint.

[Matt J.]

We dry sanded Rarus' bottom last spring... I was whooped from work we'd been doing, and didn't try very hard to worry over the dust. I was covered in it... my mask was usually on, but...

How much damage would (did) one sanding do? Serious question (yes, I'm now aware just how stupid it was).

It wasn't a fun job. The yard I was in suggested doing it the way i did (they rserved comment on health issues). Took two days between other projects going on.

[Matt Cohen]

Why arduously scrape bottom paint? I've seen guys using Back to Nature Strippers (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/to;ID;,Paint.Supplies,Paint.Strippers).

It turns the paint into any easily sluffable material that easily comes off.