Varnish selection advice - OT

[Ken Cohen]

I hope you don't mind helping a fellow woodworker--but not a boat builder -- with an exterior mahogany finishing question. Most woodworkers lack your experience about braving the elements.

I am about to finish (no stain) a solid mahogany/okoume marine ply tack trunk (for horse back riding) that will live in an unheated NE barn. I suspect many of you know that environment, but the best finish will be hard/durable, adaptable to seasonal temperature changes, and moisture proof. As to UV/water, it will have very occasional exposure to outdoor conditions.

Based on advice of woodworkers, I am thinking about a short varnish (like Waterlox) or a spar varnish. Given the rough treatment the trunk will receive, I would like as much hardness as possible (eg.Waterlox), but am concerned that the temperature changes will cause it to fail. FWIW, I would prefer a non-glossy finish.

I'd really appreciate any suggestions, including alternative approaches.

Many thanks in advance

Ken.

[Dan McCosh]

I've had good luck with Waterlox on blocks, which take a lot of banging around. I was under the impression it was a soft, rather than hard finish. I had some UV issues with it, but it's lasted a couple of seasons. I'm don't know why you want a hard finish--unless there is regular abrasion.

[SchoonerRat]

You didn't mention in your post if a clear finish is strongly desired. If durability is higher on your list than beauty, even a decent quality paint will outlive the best of varnishes.

[pcford]

Yes, paint is certainly more durable.

If I were you, I would use Epifanes varnish..gloss... and rub it back to semigloss with pumice and rottenstone. It would look yummy.

The sun (UV) is the killer of clear finishes. As your box will be spending most of its time in a tack room varnish will last a very long time.

[Ken Cohen]

First, thanks to all for taking the time to answer my clearly off topic inquiry.

To answer one of the questions, i'm looking for a clear finish, ruling out paint.

Regarding wear, a tack trunk gets daily use -- things tossed in, footstool, etc. However, little or no direct sunlight exposure.

Hope that helps. Thx for the advice.

[Canoeyawl]

Iwould be tempted to use good ol' orange shellac.
Quick drying and you can touch it up or recoat anytime.

[would work]

I like the idea of shellac due to the fact that exposure to the elements will be limited. however if durability is an issue( i think it is) then ,if it were me, I would use Awlspar 3131.for quick build and durability.

[redbopeep]

Le Tonkinois. Tung oil based finish. Just saw an old wooden Thistle that's been using it for going on 8 years on all brightwork including the brightly finished inside of hull. Looks great. Lives in a garage in Indiana but gets used a lot by a group of boy scouts who probably aren't exactly easy on it.

[C. Ross]

I'd second pcford except for addition about tossing gear in the box. That will eventually ding the varnish.

Redbopeep says Le Tonk, and you might also consider just tung oil: non-glossy, won't blacken if kept mostly dry and mostly indoors, and when some piece of tack equipment puts in a nasty scrape, you can just rub in another coat of tung. But use pure Tung from a place like Lee Valley, not "tung oil finish" which is usually just a poor-grade varnish.

[Todd D]

For a tough finish that will stand up to the elements and to heavy use, I would go with a 2 part coating like Epiphanes 2 part clear or Interlux Perfection 2 part varnish. Either will give a very tough finish that will look great and last a long time. They are a bit pricy though.

[Lew Barrett]

I'll kick in my 2 cents. Despite the counter intuitive nature of this comment, trust me when I say that the usual run of spar varnishes are softer, rather than harder finishes. This gives them a certain resilience that is lacking in harder finishes.

The two parts break that rule as they are catalyzed as is epoxy, and come out a bit harder as a result. I'm not sure they are any more ding resistant, but they are claimed to be more scuff resistant and to last longer in the sun. All my betters tell me this is true but the problem is that they are not as flexible, so when they fail, they fail spectacularly.
Throw some varnish on it (I like Epifanes too) and allow the passage of the years to grace your build with a lovely patina. Varnish is easily renewed by the application of one or two coats. No finish will last forever regardless of the use the piece is put to so it's probably as well to pick the one you like as opposed to trying to come up with a miracle coating. Indoors, a good varnish job should last for decades.

[Mrleft8]

1-2-3 One part varnish (I'm a pariah here....I use Benjamin Moore 440 spar varnish, and I love it!), two parts turpentine (not paint thinner), three parts tung oil. You can add a drop or 3 of Japan drier too if you like. This mix is guaranteed to spontaneously combust if you leave oily rags wadded up, so dunk them in water, or toss them in the woodstove.