Bristol Finish varnish repair

[Joe Voyt]

What is the best way to repair a blister caused by moisture getting under the varnish, and is there any way to avoid or minimize a discolored repair?
The varnish is Bristol Finish, and 4 coats were applied on the teak trim of my sailboat one year before the blister appeared. The 2 inch round blister was present for 5 months before a repair was attempted.
The repair involved scrapping off the loose blistered varnish, then the area was sanded and feathered-in with 200 grit sandpaper. No discoloration of the wood was present. The bare wood and feathered finish were cleaned with acetone which darkened the repair area until it dried, after which time the repair area had a uniform light color with no darkness of the wood or feathered varnish.
When a coat of Bristol Finish was applied to the repair, the feathered area of the repair darkened, but the bare wood area of the repair did not discolor (as shown in the picture).
Does anyone have any suggestions for completing this repair with uniform color?

[peb]

Interesting, I use bristol finish and have usually had to repair much smaller areas. I have had discoloration on the wood, but not the feathered part. I don't always have discoloration of the wood as long as it is dry. I would call bristol up and send them the picture. Their phone support is pretty helpful and knowledgable.

BTW, after 3 years on my Bristol finish, I have the following to report. It holds up pretty well over time. Better than varnish. But the holes do appear. The good thing: as repairs are done, they occur less often(assuming 2/3 maintenance coats are applied yearly). It seems like eventually you get past most of the "weak areas" of the initial applications and it holds up better. It is a PITA to do the repairs since it is a 2 part finish.

Not a perfect prodoct, but pretty dang good. also, the flattening agent s*&ks. Overtime, it is less expensive and less time consuming than varnish.

[Joe Voyt]

Bristol Finish technicians say that dark repairs are typical of ALL varnishes and will blend in after 3 to 6 months. They offered no explanation for why the old varnish feathered area resulted in a dark ring around the repair. Not too happy with their response.

Next step - I plan to sand and clean the area with teak cleaner and wood bleach where needed. Then apply a clear 2-part varnish such as Interlux Perfection varnish. Follow that with the Bristol Finish amber colored varnish. And hope for a better repair...though probably not perfect.

[Jay Greer]

Often a blister can be repaired by shooting finish material under it with a hypodermic syringe.
Jay

[lesharo]

Darkness is usually the result of sanding into new wood; the deeper the darker and it will usually bleach out in time. It bleaches out more if the varnish you use bleaches. In the case of Bristol, I know it's clear, but I don't know how much it bleaches. Being clear; I would think that it does bleach out somewaht. In one parts, Clipper bleaches out alot, Schooner almost as much, Epifanes can actually get darker.

Anyway, you're darness seems to be at the feather edges which may be something different. Unless that's where you sanded the most which is possible. Hope for it bleaching out. The repairs with two parts are a serious problem against using it.