White paint over red lead?

[Seth Wood]

Hi all, here's a question on the use of Kirby's red lead paint as a primer.

I've been using it as a primer/sealer for my backbone timbers. But how much will it show through on the external sides that I will eventually paint white?

George Kirby recommends a coat or two of grey or white primer over the red lead, then the regular white paint. Anyone have first-hand experience with this? Not being in the Coast Guard, I'd hate for the finished boat to have garish orange stem timbers.

(A related question: my Kirby's red lead paint keeps developing gummy, clumpy skins while in the can. Am I not closing it tightly enough?)

Thanks for all advice....

[Rich VanValkenburg]

I'm right there with ya on this, having just red-leaded the forekeel for Sonja. Curious to see what the word is.

[Art Read]

Well... I've just put one, full strength coat of Kirby's semi-gloss black over his red lead so far, but it covered beautifully. Perhaps some primer in a lighter hue WOULD help if you're going to paint yours white, but it might be worth just doing a little "test" on an offcut or two before going to the trouble on the whole boat?

Now that I think about it, I DID use his semi-gloss white for my boot top with no problems covering in one coat and the semi-gloss "off-white" over red lead on my plywood subdeck's undersides as well, and by the second coat there, it looked great. (The first had a few "streaks" of orange peaking through, but I purposly put it on pretty lightly...)

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid16/pdd292b47b9ded8ec94c9cbe421e45781/fdef520f.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid19/pa00f4e0f1b89303f87730d9a0c1db4c6/fdc1e078.jpg

[ 05-06-2002, 02:46 PM: Message edited by: Art Read ]

[Stan Derelian]

A little trick I picked up somewhere...maybe here... to stop the skimming over on paint is to displace the air in the can with a bit of propane from a torch just before you close the can.

Being heavier than air it settles over the surface and excludes oxygen. I've tried it for long storage of paint, and it seems to work.

[Art Read]

I just keep my cans up-side down. Seems to work for me, at least 'till I get down to the "dregs" at the bottom. The red lead though, does seem to get pretty "lumpy" a lot sooner than regular paint. Not just a "skin", but the solids seem to just come out of solution as I start to get to the end. Guess I'm not being carefull enough about stirring it up good as I use it...

[Bob Cleek]

Wow! That propane idea just may work! I've tried all the usual recommended schemes and they are of limited use, at best. As for red lead, just stir it up good and it should be okay... it isn't finish quality paint, so a few strings of skin shouldn't be a big problem. White basecoat over it will work fine. Not to worry.

BTW Art, did you lose your wet edge stopping to take the picture in the middle of laying on those topsides? LOL Nice looking job!

[JIM MALONEY]

I've been painting every member of the boat, a renovation of a Winslow 36' sloop including the planks, frames, floors, stringers and anything else that does not get varnished - and then coating with at least 2 coats of Kirby's semi-gloss white. Works beautifully and although for a few days you can skim the white off with your fingernail, after a week or so, the bond is excellant.

[Seth Wood]

Keep the paint can upside down, eh? I guess that would eliminate the clumps ... along with all the paint. Oh wait, you mean with the lid still on the can...

I'll try the propane idea. (So methane wouldn't work? I can see it now, my wife saying "Where's all our Cracklin' Oat Bran? And what's this orange stuff on your pants?")

OK, seriously: I'm glad to know that white primer over the red lead will hide it. First coat goes on tonight!

Thanks to all for your help.

[ 05-07-2002, 08:10 AM: Message edited by: Seth Wood ]