On the hard damage

[Furasta]

Anyone out there in the know about the actual molecular damage done to wood from drying out for extended periods? Furthermore, hands on knowledge of the effect of the same process on the fasteners? If the wood shrinks and then swells back up around and against the fasteners, are they being affected by a tensile stretch? This besides the obvious detriments of oxygen getting around the fasteners and the loosening of the seams. I want to leave my 68 year old out for 5 months. Not the tropics, but now in Virginia. Wish is was up north in the cooler, but, c'est la vie.

[Ian McColgin]

A winter out won't hurt her if you store over dirt and put on a cover (vented if not fiber) that hangs to near ground to keep the sunlight off and the sweetwater out. If stored in a barn, make it drafty and if cement floored put down a few inches of dirt that can be moistened from time to time.

Yes the wood shrinks from around fastenings. This is one reason you should launch the boat and then wait a week to step the mast(s). Most older sailboats don't dry so much in a winter that you have to worry about full recaulking but you may need to touch up the seam compound a bit. For the underwater compound (brown) mix 50/50 with common roofing tar and apply with a designated grease gun, flattening with a putty knife.

G'luck

[Hughman]

Clean the hull of dirt and growth, and roll on a coat of boiled linseed oil. This will slow the drying of the planking, and can be painted over in the spring.

There are arguements pro and con about painting the interior, but this is a situation where you might consider painting inside to reduce moisture loss on boat that spends winters ashore.

[boylesboats]

Listen to ya, Ian.... I agree with that...:)

[Ian McColgin]

My cousin was a great believer in the linseed oil bit but I never found it necessary and have no idea why it would preserve moisture than the paint that's on there anyway.

Anyone got scientific evidence on this?

[Bill Mercer]

I've heard of painting on a mix of linseed oil and pine tar--I thought the idea was the the goop would soak in as the water evaporated, thereby replacing the moisture with oil. My boat's glued plywood and doesn't shrink, so I have no idea if this works, but it makes sense.

[C. Ross]

An expert wood guy like Mr. Smalser would know the real answer, but it seems unlikely to me that oil would replace moisture in wood, which is mostly contained inside impermeable cell walls. Maybe oil would "wick in" from the butt ends, but not wood stock that has been sawn, planed, sanded and painted, right? It also seems unlikely that oil would create any kind of "moisture barrier".

In any case, you'd have to think the ambient humidity levels would have more effect than a coating -- so I'd rather have my boat in a cool covered soil floor barn than on the hard in the sun covered in goop, y'know?

Sure, year-round moist temperate environment would be ideal, but lots of wood boats are kept up north outdoors for six months in punishing winters with covers that don't trap moisture.

It'll be fine.

[Peerie Maa]

There is always the antifreeze treatment: http://www.woodenboat.net.nz/Workshop/rotstopper/rotcure.html
I read of a Scandinavian gent who decided that his boat was floating too low due to water take up in her timber. He painted on coat after coat of wood turpentine, that apparently drove the water out due to its greater affinity to wood. Would cost a fortune here in the UK.
But the best will be the advice given above, keep the humidity constant by storing the boat in a damp environment. Another way to do that is to lay hessian/burlap in the bilge and water it to keep it damp.

[rbgarr]

We are pulling a Concordia yawl into a heated shop for deck and interior refinishing in a few weeks. We 'skirt' the boat in plastic sheet from the sheer to the floor with a vapor barrier under all. Place big tubs of water (refilled as necessary) under the skirt. This is how it's been done for this boat for several winter work periods (the shop is 62 degrees, radiant concrete floor) and it's worked fine.

Regarding molecular structure and damage to fastenings... can't help with any proven, dependable knowledge on that score, especially in the case of a boat unseen.

[Mrleft8]

But the best will be the advice given above, keep the humidity constant by storing the boat in a damp environment. Another way to do that is to lay hessian/burlap in the bilge and water it to keep it damp.
This is where the trouble lies.....(lays?) The idea is to keep a certain level of moisture in the frames, and planking..... BUT we are constantly admonished not to allow FRESH WATER to infiltrate our boats. Yet every other thread asking this question invariably has a post or several telling us to use a "drip irrigation hose"or a "sprinkler"or a bunch of old burlap watered down with a garden hose every so often....
The answer that appears obvious to me is: It's gonna dry out, and shrink. It's going to need some attention. (that's why you're hauling her anyway idnit?) It'll take up again when she's put back in the drink. This is the way it has been done for a millenia. Is there a better mouse trap? Maybe.

[Peerie Maa]

This is where the trouble lies.....(lays?) The idea is to keep a certain level of moisture in the frames, and planking..... BUT we are constantly admonished not to allow FRESH WATER to infiltrate our boats. Yet every other thread asking this question invariably has a post or several telling us to use a "drip irrigation hose"or a "sprinkler"or a bunch of old burlap watered down with a garden hose every so often....
The answer that appears obvious to me is: It's gonna dry out, and shrink. It's going to need some attention. (that's why you're hauling her anyway idnit?) It'll take up again when she's put back in the drink. This is the way it has been done for a millenia. Is there a better mouse trap? Maybe.

If you do want to keep her stable, and cannot do all of the stuff outside the boat as suggested, deal with Mr 8's consern by sprinkling salt on the hessian, so that drips are as salty as the timber.