Painting Varnished wood

[seadated]

I own and operated a 36 hatteras.

I have 2 storage units on each side of my saloon door, outside. They are all wood (mahogany) and have been abused by previous owners.
I would like to strip them down and paint them in awlgrip, but I am unsure of the correct process.
I am also planning on re-painting the deck and topside of the boat this winter. My plan is to start bringing back the original beauty of this 1973 classic.

Thanks for any recommendations.

[Banjo]

G'day Seadated :D Hahah, love the tag name!! smile.gif

I think it's the use of a heat gun, scraper and good old elbow grease with the sanding block old mate!

You could try using paint strippers but I prefere the non chemical aproach, much kinder on the environment and yerself too.

Not familiar with awlgrip, it was in another thread here not too long ago, try the search option.

[Concordia..41]

I don't see from your post if the storage cabinets are currently painted or varnished. Varnish should come up nicely with a heat gun, paint will probably need sanding (and some folks here swear by several chemical stripping products).

On caveat - if they are/were varnished I urge you to consider "whiting out" - that amounts to varnishing the surface prior to painting. Seems bizarre, but if you or your progeny or anyone who ever owns the boat wants to return the boxes to bright, it keeps the white paint from getting down in the grain.

I've not had the urge to paint over anything varnished, but I know from a refinishing standpoint the couple of times I lucked upon a piece that had been whited out I nearly dropped to my knees in thanksgiving.

Cheers!

[Banjo]

Originally posted by Concordia..41:

On caveat - if they are/were varnished I urge you to consider "whiting out" - that amounts to varnishing the surface prior to painting. Seems bizarre, but if you or your progeny or anyone who ever owns the boat wants to return the boxes to bright, it keeps the white paint from getting down in the grain.

I've not had the urge to paint over anything varnished, but I know from a refinishing standpoint the couple of times I lucked upon a piece that had been whited out I nearly dropped to my knees in thanksgiving.

Cheers!THIS is why I love these forums! Thanks C for such a great tip. It just goes to show that you never stop learning if you keep your eyes and mind open.

[Bruce Taylor]

Great advice, Margo.

[seadated]

Thanks guys,

The boxes are outside in the cockpit.

I probably will sand them down and start the priming process. I am inexperienced with using the awlgrip system.

I know from other people it can be rooled, brushed or sprayed on after a good prep and primer then clear coated.

It will make the boxes looke like new,

If anyonw has any helpful tips on using this system feel free to post.
Thanks guys

[JimConlin]

Some of the two-part polyurethane paints have solvents which will attack conventional paints and varnishes in a nasty and ugly way. Some don't. There are primers which will serve as a conversion coat between the two paint systems.
Also, be warned that the LPU paints are much more demanding of preparation perfection and substrate stability than conventional paints. It's easy to create an expensive and shiny mess.

RTFM and follow it to the letter.

[ 10-21-2003, 05:20 PM: Message edited by: JimConlin ]

[Buddy]

The problem with ALL LPU systems is the paint, while hard and tenacious, is as a consequence very rigid. If the wood here is in tongue and groove panels, loose panels in a rail and stile construction ( like a cabinet door), in any way jointed, the wood will move, the paint can't stretch , and WILL crack at the seams, spoiling the looks and probably moisture will start spoiling the adhesion, flaking and rot following behind. Best to use these LPU's over a layer of epoxied fabric of some kind, or metal. I have seen it endure on mahogany plywood- but not across seams. Those were covered by battens.
I quite agree on the whiting out(clearing out really) having labored long remove white paint from the pores of "bare" mahogany boat components when I wanted to refinish them bright.
A think a less hard, more elastic alkyd oil enamel would serve you better here. You're not going to have any surface wear here.