should i nail 'er, or screw 'er?

[Pernicious Atavist]

okay, y'all, more about the impending sharpie project. i'm building a sharpie in the 20-foot range using traditional materials and methods wherever possible. again, since the boat will have to be trailered, certain considerations have to be taken.

the hull will be cypress since it's so common here (florida) and proper for a florida-built sharpie. the bottom will be skiff-built, of course, with athwartship boards, which were most often nailed on.

now, most of the originals were used only as workboats, but some "yacht-grade" racers were built. mine will be of the later grade. because she'll be trailered, i don't if bronze boat nails are adequate.

the question is: do i nail 'er, or screw 'er?

[Keith Wilson]

Annular ring nails (sometimes called "boat nails") have similar pull-out strength to an equivalent size wood screw, if I remember correctly. The disadvantge is that they're damned difficult to get out if you ever need to repair anything. Screws are more expensive, but just about as easy to install these days with a power driver. If I had the money, I'd probably use square-drive bronze screws from McFeely's (http://store.yahoo.com/squaredrive/fasteners-screws-flat-head-silicon-bronze.html). If I didn't, I'd go to my local Megahomehardwarestuff store and get a couple of boxes of Chinese stainless-steel square-drive deck screws. In 30 years, someone may thank you for using the better fasteners.

[Pernicious Atavist]

thanks, keith. i have another source for the same, so now i can compare prices. i want to stick w/ bronze since they'll end up exposed after awhile, i'm sure. i'm thinking square drive for the hull and slotted for topsides where they'll be seen. the idea of replacing damaged boards is a good observation.

[Bob Smalser]

Problem with nails is that they like to back out a bit as the wood swells and shrinks from season to season and need resetting. Ringshanks do that a bit less, but I would think bouncing around on a trailer would exacerbate the problem.

So I'd use screws...the challenge is getting them at a good price. Up here in the cold, I get away with hot-dipped galvanized just fine, and get them for 3-8 bucks a hundred on account from a hardware wholesaler. In the SE, I'd want bronze or 316 stainless. At about 50pct more than galvanized, 316 is a pretty good value.

[Ex-Oceangoddess]

Another good source is Pacific Fasteners in Vancouver. I recently bought 5000 #8 Robertson SS 1-1/4" wood screws for as I recall $150 CD. Try www.pacificfasteners.com. (http://www.pacificfasteners.com.) The exchange rate is nice too and they have about everything you could ever need, SS, bronze, brass, ring nails, copper rivets, bronze and SS ready rod, etc. etc. A really cool place.

[Russell Sova]

Ed, according to Mark's handbook for Mechanical Engineers nails hold better than a corresponding threaded bolt or screw. They hold down train tracks don't they? I've always used peened nails and cover the inside with a thin plywood to cover the nails on the inside. They won't pull out from trailering or hitting the dock or whatever.

[Mr. Know It All]

On a clinker built Lyman they used both. Bronze screws and copper clinch nails. The screws go through the plank into the frame. Between the frames the planks are clinch nailed together. To reclinch or tighten up the hull takes 2 people. One on the outside with a hammar and a punch and one on the inside with a bucking iron to bend the tip of the nail over. Screws have to be tightened or replaced too. Rivets or roves are other options. If you plan on keeping and using the boat you will want to use good fasteners to ease future maintanance. Good Luck!