View Full Version : Redwing update
Well, it's taken a little while but I think it's worth it
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/v_berth_mastPosition.jpgThe v-berth and the mast position now obvious.
Hmm, a bucket all I need now is a seat.
Okay, that should do it.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/WC_sawdustBox.jpg
That's were the lid goes while one is busy. The box will contain sawdust, probably camphor laurel...cause it smells nice:D
The Dunny door, the round bit is a mirror.
The Bigfella
11-11-2008, 05:20 AM
Excellent - so the next EBS is on Redwing?
You never know. I am hoping for a launch date around Nov 09.
Would be fun eh?
Larks
11-11-2008, 06:05 AM
Great stuff Gary, nicely done. Looking forward to a sail in Nov'.
GaryK
11-11-2008, 06:06 AM
Luvly dunny seat.. What timber is that Gary?
I'll have get one of those plumb lines, homemade gerry rig doesn't do.
GaryK it's camphor laurel...which is weed here. Beautiful timber though.
BTW I modeled the seat on one from a porta potti.
I'm now working on a hatch in the cockpit floor to give me access to the shaft seal and propshaft flange.
Duncan Gibbs
11-12-2008, 08:46 PM
Great stuff Gary!! Keep the pictures coming... Or I'll come around and take some anyway!! :D
GaryK
11-12-2008, 10:41 PM
BTW I modeled the seat on one from a porta potti.
I'm now working on a hatch in the cockpit floor to give me access to the shaft seal and propshaft flange.
You probably discussed this elsewhere, but what diesel did you end up with? Any tips for finding a reasonably priced one?
camphor laurel.
That should keep things smelling nicely :D
Jim
Gary I have a Yanmar YSE12 hp to put it. It was given to me when a friend re-engined his boat. I can't give you any advice on finding an engine other than keeping you eyes and ears open. If I'm looking for something I will mention it to people, that sometimes brings result. What size engine are you after?
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/00003_G.jpg
A general view looking forward.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/00004_G_001.jpg
BUGGER! A slight mismeasurement...oh well, easily fixed.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/00001_G_001.jpg
The new cockpit engine access hatch. This is to give me access to the shaft seal and propshaft flange. It all looks a bit fiddly and with hindsght it could have been better thought out but...that's life.
GaryK
11-14-2008, 05:18 PM
Gary I have a Yanmar YSE12 hp to put it. It was given to me when a friend re-engined his boat. I can't give you any advice on finding an engine other than keeping you eyes and ears open. If I'm looking for something I will mention it to people, that sometimes brings result. What size engine are you after?
Anything small, 10 to 20hp range.
I like the finish on your Hartley. Y'know, Hartley was a design i considered. I know you like Benford dory's a lot, but I don't see Hartley to a Benford as a step up. Hartleys would have more initial stability for one.
Larks
11-14-2008, 05:28 PM
Gary, I did a post a while back trying to get an idea of what to ask for a Volvo Penta 2002B 18hp, 'don't know if the thread is of any use to you but may be interesting in terms of what price to expect.
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77294
I haven't sold the engine as I'm still undecided as to whether to or not (I'd like to eventually put in a brand new Yanmar when I'm doing the rebuild) but it's the wrong side of the country for you anyway.
GaryK
11-14-2008, 05:57 PM
Gary, I did a post a while back trying to get an idea of what to ask for a Volvo Penta 2002B 18hp, 'don't know if the thread is of any use to you but may be interesting in terms of what price to expect.
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77294
I haven't sold the engine as I'm still undecided as to whether to or not (I'd like to eventually put in a brand new Yanmar when I'm doing the rebuild) but it's the wrong side of the country for you anyway.
Sometimes boats sell for the price of their engine. There was a 29' Hartley sold recently, the seller had installed a new diesel at a cost of $12k, then advertised the boat for $18k. It sold a year later for $13k I believe. Would have been easier to flog it for $1k to start with...
Anyway, I don't really want to spend more that 2k.
thought I had something for you Gary but ti was way too expensive.
Well it has been a little over three years since I dragged the tarps off the boat and started work on her again. The last few weeks I have been putting in the hours on the galley. I was going to be putting the engine in but as the van has consumed the money I had set aside for that I have had to pick a project that would use what ever I had on site...so the galley was it. I'm not very good at looking at a spot in the boat and designing how I can best use the space. My technique is to start with basic framing and see where it takes me.
I've been taking photos and I'll get some posted here tomorrow night.
Wooden Boat Fittings
02-21-2009, 07:22 AM
.
Maybe it's a bit late to be mentioning this Gary, but had you thought of putting the forehatch hinges on the forward side of the hatch? Sanderling's were on the after side as yours are, but only because the hatch was immediately forward of the mast and actually using it would have been quite difficult had it opened sternwards. This doesn't look like any sort of a problem in your case, and an aft-opening hatch is generally considered safer.
(For much the same reason, car doors in this day and age are only hinged on the leading edge, whereas in the good old days pre-war the front doors were often hinged on the trailing edge -- which of course played merry hell if the door came open while the vehicle was moving.)
Other than that, it looks you're doing a great job with her. Where are you going to sail her, on Clarrie Hall Dam? (Or Smith's Creek? :) )
Mike
rufustr
02-21-2009, 03:27 PM
I hadn't seen this thread before Gary.:confused:
Can you post some more photos of your work.
It's looking great.:D:cool::D
Mike, I did think of having the hatch hinge forward but as the mast is just forward of the hatch i figured having it hinge aft the best option.
Coastal cruising, Northern NSW and SE QLD for starters....assuming I don't scare myself too badly to start with :D
Rufus I should some more photos up today.
Okay starting with a basic shelf.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1116.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1118.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1120.jpg
This shows the draw in place
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1122.jpg
Now for the benchtop, this is my second one as I broke the first attempt.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1123.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1124.jpg
Here we have the galley pump and sink in place. In the corner is the locker lid with a cutting board attached. Any ideas on what I can iol it with without contaminating food?
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1127.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1128.jpg
Here are a couple of shots of the WC and door.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1129.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1132.jpg
hansp77
02-21-2009, 11:58 PM
In the corner is the locker lid with a cutting board attached. Any ideas on what I can iol it with without contaminating food?
Gary,
I prefer pure tung oil- it is food safe, non browning/reddening and has a nice nutty aroma;) good to use for chopping boards, wooden bowls, spoons, etc- and is nicely waterproof once you get enough on.
here is a write up of some other food safe stuff.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=26893
For Tung oil, just make sure you are getting the 'pure' stuff, no driers added or anything else added. (it's obvious, but certainly don't get any of the decking products, sometimes even called pure tung oil, even though they aren't).
Of course, its just a simple wipe on, wipe of, let dry and repeat.
We have a brand made in melbourne sold at a few local Mitre 10's.
btw, nice work!
I don't know too much about your boat, was this a rebuild or a build from scratch?
Wooden Boat Fittings
02-22-2009, 12:36 AM
.
You can also use liquid paraffin. Fauldings make it and it's available in chemists and supermarkets (under "medicinal") everywhere. You can use it neat, but it will need quite a few coats and they'll need repeating reasonably frequently.
It's what the Yanks call "mineral oil" and its one of the several that rate a mention on Hans' link -- particularly in the last para where it's recommended combined with beeswax.
Mike
Hans, Redwing is a build from scratch but it's a project that languished under tarps for a bout 15 years. Life sort of got in the way of the dream. One day I'll scan some of the early photos of the building process.
Thanks for the ideas for the cuttingboard.
hansp77
02-22-2009, 05:13 AM
No probs,
my vague recollection was that it was a new build, but then I saw what looked to be peeling paint under the galley ;) reminded me of my boat... I'll get around to scraping and painting down there one day:D
(while yours languished under tarps, mine is currently languishing out on the water:o)
In the corner is the locker lid with a cutting board attached. Any ideas on what I can iol it with without contaminating food?
What is the board made from? If it was camphor laurel, you would have a good cutting board and help in getting rid of an introduced pest.
The peeling paint is a problem. It's on epoxy and is extremely resistant to being removed cleanly. I really wish I hadn't painted it in the first place. The only thing I haven't tried is paint stripper. I have to wear earmuffs when scraping as the sound puts my teeth on edge:0
I have peeling paint all up under the cockpit as well and that's a bugger of a place to work. There's 3 coats of Everdure epoxy under it so I may just ignore it for now.
JimJ, it is Camphor and I used it for that reason. I figured it wouldn't hurt to put some oil on it as well...besides it would bring out the grain:D
hansp77
02-22-2009, 06:14 AM
the peeling paint sounds like a real bugger.
Did you prime it first? or just topcoat? Enamel?
I suppose it would be unwise to use any heat... but I would be tempted to try it... mildly...
I've found carby cleaner can work as a usually unwelcome mild paint stripper... the way it has worked for me (and I imagine a range of solvents might do the same) is that on dodgy paint, rather than actually strip the stuff it just breaks the remianing bond to the surface underneath, softens the paint a bit, and allows it to peel off. I don't know what is actually in carby cleaner- it probably has some sort of stripping agent to disolve the fuel varnish...?
I don't know what real paint stripper does to epoxy- and a quick google hasn't made it any clearer... AFAICT it seems most strippers will or might strip or degrade epoxy, but some won't, or will do it a lot slower. I read a few peole talking about milder strippers to be used for some applications on cars, and some to be used on boats where it will strip the paint but not damage the fiberglass gellcoat (both expensive though).
MIght be worth a bit of testing- or even contacting some of the suppliers and see if they have epoxy safe stripper.
Is there enough epoxy on the surface of the wood to just sand it and re-prime it?
I've found grey 'International Yacht Primer' (for above and below the waterline) to be brilliant. Sticks like nothing else (a good test being how long it takes to get off your skin:D).
Anyway, bugger of a job, especially on your hands and knees in the bilge- reminds me of what stopped our progress stripping and re-priming the inside of our boat.:D The thing that makes mine particularly nasty down there, aside from the difficulty accessing it, is all the oil and grease that is coating everything from 1. the carby that used to drip constantly, and 2. the rear output seal on the gearbox that was stuffed... I was amazed at how much topping of oil that gearbox seemed to require, untill I lifted the boards in the bilge and saw it all floating down there:eek::mad::D
PeterSibley
02-22-2009, 05:23 PM
This is WX using Peter's computer...I'm out here to raid some of his Red cedar for trim pieces.:D
Hans, the main problem is the fiddly bits you can't get a block sander at. As for the bilge, once I've fastened down the aft section of cockpit floor it will be almost impossible to get at. I figure I'll key it all back as best i can and either epoxy over it or paint over it. I prefer epoxy as I can then see if anything nasty is happening underneath. It will be out of the sun so it should hang in well.
SMARTINSEN
02-22-2009, 06:17 PM
Mineral oil a.k.a. baby oil--unscented--is food safe and is what I use for wooden chopping blocks and cutting boards.
Nice boat.
Baby oil! What amazing stuff. I've used it to refill my compass and now I can use for my chopping board:D
I've spent the last couple of days shaping, sanding and fitting fiddles and trim. The timber is Red Cedar (Toona australis) kindly donated by Peter. Not the cleanest of grain and I had to cramp it all up once dimensioned to stop it twisting all over the place. Luckily it's a soft timber and easy to sand. It doesn't look much yet but in a day or two it will have a coat or 2 of varnish and it's true colour will show through.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1135.jpg
Settee berth and backrest shelf fiddles in place.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/DSCN1136.jpg
Galley fiddles and trim in place. It still looks a bit rough but a bit of sanding will fix all that.
GaryK
03-04-2009, 02:09 AM
Nice roomy interior for a 25' boat.
Do you have the book: "Boat Joinery and Cabinet Making Simplified" by Fred P. Bingham or do your plans include detailed interior drawings?
At first I thought you had a window on your head door, for perving on guests, but I think its a mirror.
Haha, it's a mirror. Actually it's one side out of Kerry's vanity mirror:D
I have Hartley's two books on boat building, plus I have a few of Lucas's books on fitting out and one by Toghill. The rest I have worked out by myself or though looking at how others have done it. As I have stated before I am hopeless at drawing up detailed drawings on how to utilise a space. My process is to start and see what happens as I go alone. So far I seem to have created something workable....when I hit the water I will know for sure:D
My technique if you could call it that is to use plywood with epoxy and timber stiffening. At best I will use a lap joint in doing fitout. Biulding the hull and deck I stuckstrictly to the plan...except that I extended the aft doghouse 1ft 9inches further aft and I included a forehatch.
I have since shaped and sanded the Red Cedar fiddles and trim and I'm very pleased with the result. I'll post an update soon.
I can't see any of the photos I had here.
Anyway here's some new ones showing Red Cedar fiddles and trim.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1143.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1144.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1145.jpg
Domesticated_Mr. Know It All
03-07-2009, 11:07 PM
Gary, are you building the "Red Wing" by Karl Stambaugh?
I've been looking at possibly building one in the future.
Do you have any photos of the hull construction?
Hi Kevin, My Redwing is a Hartley 24 Spindrift. Redwing is the name I have given to her.
PeterSibley
03-08-2009, 03:25 AM
Lookin' good Gary !
I spent a lot of time thinking about how to do this. I needed a maststep that would attach to a partial bulkhead on the No 2 frame and also slot down over the stem piece. I didn't want it going anywhere once it was in and this is what I came up with.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/00005_G.jpgThis is the basic design minus mast anchor bolt.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/00006_G_001.jpg
this is with the anchor bolt and forward mounting fitted. The mast slot is slightly over 4" diameter.
I will post a photo of the mast step in situ.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/00021_G.jpg
The mast step firmly glued and bolted in place.
I've bought some of the timber for the birdsmouth mast, so now it's starting to get interesting.
GaryK
03-24-2009, 11:47 PM
Looks nice and stout (as George Buehler would say), Gary.
Well....I don't want it to go anywhere it shouldn't:D
It's been an interesting little project.
PeterSibley
03-28-2009, 09:01 PM
Hi gary ...so that's the 1/2' bolt !
That's it. It shouldn't lift or twist with that through it. The aft and forward bolt holes have stainless steel sleeves in them to reduce any wear. The stainless tube came from an old towel rack I found in the old shed.
GaryK
03-29-2009, 10:29 AM
Gary, what junk sail design have you settled on? Reddish? Hasler preferred?
Gary I will be using the Hasler-MacLeod design with 8% camber in each panel.4 parallel panels and 3 top panels. The lower top panel will be sheeted.
There is a problem with the Reddish with the battens getting behind the mast when reefing. I had originally decided to go with the Fenix rig as I like the shape but I was talked out of it. I may have mentioned it before but if you go to the files section of the JR forum and look at Arne's files you will find a goldmine of info on building cambered sails. Camber will improve your windward performance.
How's your Badger going?
GaryK
03-29-2009, 09:31 PM
yes, have been through all of Arne's stuff.
Strangely, I've only ever read about problems with the Hasler-Macleod design. No windward performance when more than a few panels are reefed, it all weather vanes behind the mast. There's a chap I'm in contact with cruising the Atlantic now who also has that complaint. I'm sticking with Reddish and closely following the junks shown in Hong Kong photos on that website you posted.
My Badger hull is mostly planked. Its looking pretty spiffy at the moment. :)
Good luck with it, who knows we might get to meet up sometime and compare rigs. When you going to post some new photos?
I cut a 100mm hole through the foredeck the other day and dropped a length of PVC pipe down into the step...sort of a pretend mast:D It will help me get the mast partner flange located correctly.
GaryK
03-30-2009, 08:00 AM
ok, I wasn't having a go about your choice of design, was wanting to know about the pros & cons. I'll be mindful of how the battens stack as they are reefed.
Re my hull: I'll have to get pics of it, its under cover right now.
I didn't think you were. I had planned to use the Fenix rig but was talked out of it because of the batten problem. It seems there are 3 variants on the Hasler/MacLeod rig. 1 is the standard design as in the book, panels cut flat. 2 is the with the panels cut flat but fitted with hinged battens and 3, the one I'm going with is straight battens but the panels have 8% camber cut into them.
There is a design in develpment where a slot is cut vertically in each panel at the mast. All panels have camber cut into them. This will explain it better than I can.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/junkrig/files/Split%20Junk/
GaryK
03-30-2009, 11:39 PM
Split rig, saw that one. Very tempting to just go for it. But my significant other doesnt like it, not traditional looking enough...
not traditional looking enough...
I read one of Colvin's books back in the 80s, unfortunately I was still hooked on the Western sloop rig. I decided against the junk rig at the time for much the same reason. I SHOULD have read Annie Hill's book Voyaging on a small Income instead...but I didn't know about it.
GaryK
04-01-2009, 02:16 AM
I read one of Colvin's books back in the 80s, unfortunately I was still hooked on the Western sloop rig. I decided against the junk rig at the time for much the same reason. I SHOULD have read Annie Hill's book Voyaging on a small Income instead...but I didn't know about it.
Well you couldn't, it wasn't published till 2001.
FWIW I also have Van Loan's "Design and Build your own Junk Rig", (which predates PJR), which I might use. My mind changes every month...
it wasn't published till 2001.
Actually the copy I have here was published in 1993 but what you say still stands..it wasn't around in the 80s. Unfortunately in the 90s my sailing dream took a big nosedive due to a relationship I was in, but that's another story. Which ever style you adopt I would strongly recommend that you either build in camber in your panels or use hinged battens. Both have been properly tested at sea and will give you better performance than flat cut panels.
2MeterTroll
04-01-2009, 09:05 AM
the camber is easy to put in when you make the sail just take a dart at each batten.
the hinged battens are a bit more difficult. me I plan on putting in some camber and the gurney flap. the camber just for the small performance boost and the gurney flap cause it reduces the chance of hang ups and adds performance. both are easy to do on home built sails so there seems to be no down side.
GaryK
04-01-2009, 10:02 AM
Damn, my edition of "Voyaging.." makes no reference to earlier print..
The 24' sloop we sail now always has a foot or more camber in the sails regardless of how tight its sheeted, reefed or not, pretty silly to make a junk sail without it. Hinged battens probably makes the best shape, just dont think i can trust hinges of my own making..
Anyway, final decision on sail plan is a long way off, yet to finish the hull (laminated another 2 sheets today).
GaryK
04-01-2009, 10:09 AM
Gary, are you using bamboo for battens? I'm wondering if 2 years enough time to grow them.
Two year won't be enough. A bamboo stem will reach full height in a season but won't be ready to use for two to three years. I will probably use bamboo for my battens as I have it growing here, I should get them cut so they have enough time to season. I will use a timber yard and boom.
2MT, I will be cutting the camber in as I make my sail. Instead of cutting the top and bottom of the panel straight you cut them in a curve to set measurements. This is all based on the work done by Arne Kverneland, Norway. My rig was actually designed by another Norwegian.
2MeterTroll
04-01-2009, 07:08 PM
Hmm Kverneland I will look him up.
I put the camber in my own and it worked out well with the darts.
always more for me to learn. I would not have thought of curving the top and bottom cut. Have you decided on a fabric for the sail itself?
Erica and I where talking today about some different options. I think i see a trip to the discount fabric store in our future.
Odyssey III, I can get it in burgundy (pretend tanbark) for around $19.50 a linear metre here in Oz.
Here's a link to the Junkrig forum, you will find Arne's files...underFiles.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/junkrig/
2MeterTroll
04-01-2009, 08:49 PM
We where thinking a jewel tone color fast satin brocade. its a junk rig :) so we thought it would be fun to play a little. Our last one was made from a canvas paint tarp. I was also thinking of treating another paint tarp sail with Linseed oil and see how that works.
Its fun to tinker a bit :)
Its fun to tinker a bit Pete Hill rigged a Freedom junkrig Ketch with polytarp sails. Reddish made his sail design from a polytarp for his boat and sailed it around Britain. No worries. I will be making mine sometime this year and I'm looking forward to it.
GaryK
04-01-2009, 10:30 PM
ok, I may have to try source some grown bamboo.
Last year in Bali, we came across some large bamboos hanging on a wall on the beach, they were outrigger sticks for their trad outrigged canoe boats.
They were approx 10 metres long and 20 to 25cm diameter, about the size of the mast I need. I calculated a staved or birdsmouth mast made from oregon would weigh 70 to 80kg. But I could pick this huge bamboo with one hand, no more than 7 or 8kg. Astounding!
Too bad its too big to fit on a plane..
Working on the cockpit engine access hatch. This hatch actually gives me access to the stuffing box etc...or will when it's all installed.
This photo was taken a while back.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/00001_G_001.jpg
Framing the coaming.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/00002_G_003.jpg
This shows the...not quite sure what you call them, other than coamings or weather stops. Anyway the bits that actually stop the water from getting in:D
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/00004_G_003.jpg
I have since shaped sanded it all back and made the hatch cover but the camera went flat on me...bloody modern technology. Sometimes I think I should dust off the old SLR, though these days I'd probably have trouble finding somewhere to get the film processed.
I haven't settled on a method of dogging the hatch down yet..it will be low tech anyway.
GaryK
04-08-2009, 09:39 AM
Trying to make sense of your latest pics. Are you having an engine access hatch protruding from the cockpit sole? Wouldn't you be tripping over it?
rbgarr
04-08-2009, 10:44 AM
A different Red Wing
http://i42.tinypic.com/20ijc61.jpg
Gary, yes it is raised and yes it does make the cockpit sole a bit complex. I really don't want to rip out the whole cockpit and do it again...though it may well happen sometime down the track. I realised that for anyone shorter than me they were going to have trouble bracing themselves while steering and the quickest way around it was to raise the height of the hatch.
I've been working on this boat for too many years now to go back and do stuff again, I just want to get it in the water. Once I've sailed a bit and seen what works and what doesn't I probably won't mind doing a few changes and mostly likely will as I'm not happy with the size of the cockpit. It's too deep. The small rectangular opening will hold the fuel tank.
GaryK
04-08-2009, 10:40 PM
Fair 'nough. Just remember to have it dogged down tight, in case a wave floods your cockpit, you dont want it flowing into your bilge.
:D I'm still thinking about how I'm going to do that.
paladin
04-09-2009, 04:04 AM
A set of hinges on one face of the hatch that will allow the cover to come off when rotated beyong 90 degrees, with a soft refrigerator door seal all around, and cam lock fasteners on the opposite side....will allow a screwdriver to twist a few turns to release, then lift for inspection, or continue to lift and then remove the lid as required.
GaryK
04-09-2009, 11:46 AM
..or for a quick and easy solution, just fasten it with 4 big stainless wood screws, not as if you will be using the hatch often.
Gary I have been thinking more along your lines but using captive bolts. I had thought about hinges and clasps but then i would have to have padlocks for when I'm not there as well.
Chuck what do you mean by camlock fasteners?
It's okay I know what you mean.
Well here's a few photos of what I have been up to. Not a lot of apparent change but that's what you get with 4 layers of paint:D
Okay the galley, the pump and sink haven't been fastened in yet as the varnish work isn't finished with.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1213.jpg
This is the WC door catch I've made. Bit out of focus.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1210.jpg
Another view with the door open
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1212.jpg
P.L.Lenihan
06-07-2009, 04:13 AM
Nice to get alot of the painting behind you WX...good boost for the moral.Speaking of boost, are you anticipating getting suddenly and rapidly boosted off the thunderbox anytime soon,thus the beefy wc door catch? :D:D
Looking all around good!!
Cheers!
Peter
Well, I sorta didn't want it to break:D
rufustr
06-07-2009, 04:57 PM
I understand Gary.
You are very shy and need absolute privacy.:cool::cool:
An enclosed head was always a given for me. Now I know I could have put a very nice nav station in the space occupied by my glorified bucket and I know the French have been known to have molded a dunny seat into the stern of some of their plastic yachts but for me....I'll have a dunny with a door thank you very much:D
PeterSibley
06-07-2009, 05:30 PM
Lookin' good mate ! :)
Duncan Gibbs
06-07-2009, 06:04 PM
'Tis a new form of monk's cell!!
"Yea verily though we sit in shadow of the valley of the farts...." :D:D
I hope that's not FLOODED GUM!! :D
Good stuff mate!!
Red Cedar Duncan, only the best for my dunny.
Wots wrong with Flooded Gum? I framed the hull with it.:D
chill
06-07-2009, 06:15 PM
I love the door latch
Thank you chill, I copied the idea from a toilet door catch at our local pub. Saves buying one eh.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1212.jpg
WX
I copied the idea from a toilet door catch at our local pub. Saves buying one eh.
More likely you copied that from Boggo Road jail ;)
JimJ, you ever hear the wheelie bin joke?:D
The mast begins.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1224.jpg
Length 9 metres, diameter at partners 212mm, made up from 8 staves @ 83mm x 40mm...birdsmouth construction. Yesterday was my second day working on it and I have to say I achieved very little. I forgot my planer and had to use Peter's, unfortunately his blades were blunt and needed changing but I kept getting one cutter out of alignment...eventually I threw up my hands in dispair and then Peter pointed out there was a little metal jig for setting up the cutters...UGH.
Anyway, next week will be different:D
GaryK
06-27-2009, 02:36 AM
Thats a lovely head door, WX.
Larks
06-27-2009, 04:22 AM
Looking forward to seeing the progress photos on the mast Gary to see how it's done. Here's a photo of Bintang Tengah's boom for inspiration, its been built out of durian using birdsmouth joins
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/Larks_01/P6260131.jpg
Thats a lovely head door, WX.
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/images/buttons/quote.gif (http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=2240944)
Thanks Gary :)
No photos just yet but some time ago Peter delivered my mast staves and I stacked them on the shed floor...which made walking around cumbersome.
yesterday I scrounged 4 44 gallon drums and set them up in the shed as my mast bench, I already had one drum and I need one more which I will get today. I've squared off one end of each stave and written the length measurement on them so I can work out which sections of stave will go with which. The next job is to make my scarfing jig and I figure I'll design that around using my power saw. One other job I have to do before I can get into assembling the staves is to build a 2 metre extension onto one end of the shed...my mast is 9 metres and my shed is 7 metres and I want the whole thing under cover. Luckily the required footings and steel posts are in place and all I have to do is add the structure.
While we are waiting for the new photos here's some old photos I just scanned.
The timber arrives.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/boat_timber.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/Stempiece.jpg
The Stempiece is made of 8 pieces in 4 layers.
After a few weeks of frenzied activity the first frame stands proud.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/1stFrameUp.jpg
Frames 1 to 6 now in place. A much younger and trimmer me.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/1to6_frames_up.jpg
Keelson, Stempiece, Chines and Gunwales fitted.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/keelsonChines_Gunwales.jpg
Stringers and the first Transom layer goes on.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/stringers_1st_Transom_layer.jpg
The Planking is progressing. The easy ones first. The bottom bow sheets took some real effort to fit the compound curve.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/planking_the_Hull.jpg
The hull is finished and sealed with a TPA based epoxy
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/planked_and_epoxied.jpg
The big day arrives! Woohoo!
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/turnoverDay1.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/turnoverday2.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/turnoverday3.jpg
And over she goes.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/turnoverday4.jpg
And that is where we have to leave her till I scan some more. The date of the turnover by the way was 21 December !986...Never in my wildest dreams did I think it would be many years before I would see the launch day....still waiting.
Larks
09-26-2009, 03:43 AM
Gary those photos are just fantastic! Keep them coming mate, these are definately well worth scanning and posting!
Candyfloss
09-26-2009, 05:58 AM
Now that's what I call boatbuilding! 1986? What went wrong mate?
What went wrong mate?
I met a woman that said she wanted me and my boat but actually wanted a house to live in.....I mean, how do you do both?!
Anyway it took a while to sort things out and get back on track.
...I mean, how do you do both?!
.
;) Funny how they don't understand. Glad to see you have your priorities settled.
Candyfloss
09-26-2009, 02:28 PM
Ahh, women.
I have a fine one now though, she insists I finish it. :D
I'll scan some more later today.
PeterSibley
09-26-2009, 05:30 PM
I met a woman that said she wanted me and my boat but actually wanted a house to live in.....I mean, how do you do both?!
Anyway it took a while to sort things out and get back on track.
Yep ,I remember that :(.Not the best situation ...much better now !:)
Okay here are a few more.
Foredeck beams and kingplank ready to fit.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/foredeck_beams_kingplank.jpg
It was around about this time that I decided I needed to refresh my mind on just why I was doing this. So I headed down to Coffs Habour and crewed on 32' fibreglass sloop back up as far as Evans Head. The yacht was owned by a lesbian with a tracheotomy, so she was not only bossy but hard to understand at times...Still I thank her for the opportunity. :D
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/sailing_pisces111jpg.jpg
Pisces III in Evans Head. I dazzled her with my rope throwing. I had to get a line around one of those concrete pylons and they are higher than they look believe me. So grabbed a a few coils of rope in my right hand and threw in over the top...first go...even impressed myself.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/pisces111.jpg
I then hitchhiked home, recharged and ready for more.
Foredeck, sidedecks, cabinsides and some bulkheads in place.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/decks_cabinsides_bulkheads.jpg
Cabin deck beams now in place...starting get that below deck feel.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/cabin_deckbeams.jpg
Sadly that is all I had time to scan today but there is more to come.
PeterSibley
09-27-2009, 01:23 AM
What happened to that young bloke in the photo ,eh !?? What have you done with him ?
He got old while he was doing other stuff.
Candyfloss
09-27-2009, 01:53 AM
Nothing like a trip in a snotmobile to inspire you to build a wooden boat.
I hope you are right about the new fine one.
Onward!
Nothing like a trip in a snotmobile to inspire you to build a wooden boat.
:D I kept reading snowmobile and it didn't make sense...then I looked closer:D
It was a nice boat and handled well but she was built in the 60-early 70s so was heavy and a bit slower than she needed to be.
Larks
09-27-2009, 04:04 AM
Hey, nothing wrong with being a bit heavier and slower than needs be, we're all going that way!!
I'll scan and post some more if people are interested.
Candyfloss
09-28-2009, 02:12 PM
Interested.
PeterSibley
09-28-2009, 04:14 PM
:DYep:D
switters
09-28-2009, 04:20 PM
keep posting boat pictures, no more of that ugly lesbian with the snotboat though.;)
Great looking boat.
Okay, probably do some more tomorrow night. I bought a little USB card reader today so I can dl photos off my camera card straight onto the puter...but it doesn't seem to want to do for some reason. I'll have a fiddle with it when I have more time.
Okay here are the last few, after this was 15 years of angst and neglect.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/forecabin_decking.jpg
These were exciting days as the final shape took form.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/cockpit_framing.jpg
Tiger the cat explores the foredeck.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/tiger_the_cat_expores_the_foredeck.jpg
Tiger wondering why the Doghouse deckhead hasn't been finished yet.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/cockpit_decking.jpg
And that I am sad to say is the end of the early photos. Many years were to pass before the mouldering tarps were withdrawn and the dream was reborn...dreams are such fragile things.
before she disapeared beneath the tarps she did one short trip, not by sea but on wooden rollers. Down the hill abit and under the tarps, who would have thought it waould be so long before they came off again.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/2hartleyspindrift24.jpg
PeterSibley
09-30-2009, 06:57 AM
dreams are such fragile things., but fortified with epoxy can become wet ................dreams !
Candyfloss
09-30-2009, 01:51 PM
A sorry state of affairs indeed.
Eric D
09-30-2009, 02:16 PM
More please!!!!
I will hopefully get some of the newer photos posted tonight....failing that it will be next week.
GaryK
10-01-2009, 04:19 AM
thanks for sharing. Im waiting for more too. Reminds me i better get going with mine..
One Question. Where did you source the wood for the mast? Is it oregon, hoop pine?
Mast timber is Oregon and I had Mr Sibley as my quality control.
This is the Red Cedar I'm using for my saloon table, the two drop leaves were cut from an old bedhead.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1320.jpg
The beginnings of a battery box for the starting battery.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1321.jpg
This is the colour she will be when finished. I have to sand it back a bit yet again as it's gone a bit lumpy in places.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/DSCN1322.jpg
Well that's it for now, but there will be more to come :D
Larks
10-01-2009, 05:42 PM
Nice colour Gary - good colour for a Hartley eh!!
good colour for a Hartley eh!!
I thought that when I saw yours Greg.:D
I've started work on my saloon table, it's been a while...but I had to think about it.
This is the aft leg anchor point in place.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/Aft_leg_support.jpg
This is the forward anchor point for the post.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/forward_leg_support.jpg
This is the top anchor point for the post. I'm kicking myself about the bottom screw hole and that I didn't take more trouble to make sure it lined up...oh well, excrement happens eh.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/forward_top_support.jpg
This shows the legs and post in position. I'm roughing in all the bits first, then I'll pull it all out and pretty the bits up.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/tablelegs1.jpg
With the board for the centre table top sitting in place.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/Aft_bottom_bracket.jpg
All the timber apart from the bottom support for the post is Red Cedar. The support is Camphor Laurel.
I had to modify the profile of the front leg so I could raise the forard cabin sole.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/modified_front_leg.jpg
I'm thinking of using the space underneath for a vertical chart folder with one side hinging out.
Larks
10-27-2009, 12:17 AM
I'm thinking of using the space underneath for a vertical chart folder with one side hinging out.
Why have one side hanging out? Except for the loss in leg room under the table you could have it so that it pivots at the base and locks away square with the legs at the top, maybe run 2 or 3 removable thin strips of ply veryically along at the top, slotted into a piece at each end for the charts to hang over so that you could pull out a wad of them at a time.
As for the top piece with the screw where you don't want it - maybe you could carve a dolphin or serpant or something so that it follows the screws and uses them as features - eyes or something??
One question for you though - will it be strong enough to take you leaning on it or stumbling into it when you are heeled over? I ask because I have broken a few myself that way:o.
PeterSibley
10-27-2009, 12:31 AM
Shockin' things tables , taking up the best bit of the cabin !
Looking good Gary .:)
Candyfloss
10-27-2009, 12:42 AM
What Peter said.
The Bigfella
10-27-2009, 01:20 AM
I wanna see that Red Cedar with some finish on it!!!! I love Red Cedar.
PeterSibley
10-27-2009, 02:02 AM
I wanna see that Red Cedar with some finish on it!!!! I love Red Cedar.
That red cedar used to be a bedhead I found in a Council throw out !
PeterSibley
10-27-2009, 02:07 AM
I wanna see that Red Cedar with some finish on it!!!! I love Red Cedar.
That red cedar used to be a bedhead I found in a Council throw out !:rolleyes::D
The Bigfella
10-27-2009, 04:17 AM
Great find. A cousin found a painted red cedar door and a blanket box. They both came up beautifully.
The chart folder will look a bit like an art folder, except it will be two plywood panels hinged at the bottom but only one side will open.
As for being strong enough, well the post at the front is very firmly secured and the aft leg is firmly bolted down...lots of glue, bolts and SS screws so I hope so.:D
Shining clear finish? you will just have to be patient.
you could have it so that it pivots at the base and locks away square with the legs at the top,
Rereading and trying to visualise what you are suggesting Greg....having trouble though.
Candyfloss
10-27-2009, 04:32 PM
I'm thinking of using the space underneath for a vertical chart folder with one side hinging out.
I'll join this debate. How does this work WX?
Okay, I'll do my best:D
Running fore and aft between the table legs you have two plywood panels separated by say 50mm x 12mm(could be 100mm x 12mm) framing along the bottom, top and both ends. One panel is fixed (glued) to the framing and the other is hinged to the bottom section of framing (this would be thicker, say 24mm) with catches at the top to keep it closed. The charts could hang vertically inside as Larks suggested.
I don't have a suitable chart storage area and this is an idea I've been thinking about as an option as the table will double as my nav station. Nav instruments such as dividers, parallel rule etc can be mounted on the outside of the panel for easy access.
PaulC
10-27-2009, 09:04 PM
If you balance your fresh brewed cup of coffee on the "top" while it is folded, where does the coffee go when it spills?
coffee on the "top" while it is folded,
The centre table top is fixed the chart folder is under it and opens sideways.
PaulC
10-27-2009, 10:07 PM
I was picturing the top as a fixed center as you are explaining it to be. My only concern would be if something was momentarily set there and then bumped, how much protection is there for the charts inside. I am picturing this as a stick file type of hanging file (as in blue prints, etc). While it may not take the main hit, there is going to be some that runs down onto the charts.
A good idea may be to have the face sheet and back sheet of the hanging file be a piece of mylar or polyethylene, just for cheap protection.
As I get older, my coffee seems to end up in the most discouraging places.
Larks
10-27-2009, 10:09 PM
Rereading and trying to visualise what you are suggesting Greg....having trouble though.
Sorry Gary, I guess I didn't explain it very well but here's a rough sketch of what I mean, if you can make it out:
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/Larks_01/Charttable.jpg
Basically a box that pivots on a pin through each leg at the base of the table, you could have it fixed or set up so that it can be lifted off of the pin when swung open so that you can take your charts home and work on them before a trip.
A block on the inside of the table legs at the top to stop it swinging back past centre when closed and maybe just a sliding bolt or a pivoting piece of wood to lock it away and then a block somewhere down the inside of the leg on either side to rest on when it is open.
Inside the box at the top, a couple of blocks at either end with slots in them that pieces of ply, as long as the width of the box and deep enough to hold the weight of charts can slide into , say 100mm. The charts would fold over each individual length of ply much like you might see on a newspaper rack in an old English club. You would probably lay 5 or so charts over each piece in the order that you'll use them on a passage and may even have an empty piece so that you can stack the used ones away in order for your return trip. Either lift out one chart at a time from the top of the folded stack or take out all the charts by lifting them on the length of ply.
The number of charts that you carry will depend on the width of the box.
Duncan Gibbs
10-27-2009, 10:15 PM
One question:
With a table leaf over each side of the table how does one access the charts? How does one actually fold out the chart hanger?... Unless the leaves fold upward which seems very clunky and probably a bit dangerous in a chop.
Larks, well done mate and a good idea. The way i want to do it means the fixed panel acts as bracing for the table as well. If I'm accessing charts the dropleaf on that side will be up. The hinged side of the folder opens from the top.
Larks drawing but with the box fixed and one side hinged.
Larks
10-27-2009, 11:23 PM
Yes the sketch is very rough and not to scale, it wouldn't take much at all for it to swing out enough to clear the drop leaf when it is up. I think that if you could have both a cross piece and a back to the box/folder, you will find the ability to take the whole box of charts out and home very handy. It's always a bit of a patient juggle trying to sort charts into the order that you'll go through them within the space of a yacht.
I like being able to spread them out and sort them at home and go through my passage plan and route plotting with the comfort of a decent table and floorspace to spread them out (I have a table here that I built with a big drawer and shelf under for just that purpose).
I shall think seriously about it.
Candyfloss
10-28-2009, 05:39 AM
So, your chart file lands on your knee as you sit at your "nav station", you take out your chart, reassure yourself that you're not going to hit anything soon, leave the chart on the table, sail happily on.
Works for me.
Getting your charts back into the file could be a bit interesting?
I had my first attempt at making a scarfing jig for my mast staves today and I have to say, though the materials are crap it has worked very well.
I... at least am impressed:D
The design is very simple as you can see.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/jig_with_router.jpg
Top view with a stave in place.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/stave_in_jig.jpg
Here you can see how it looks with two staves fitted together.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/scarf.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/stave_in_jig.jpg
Should have sucked in my gut for that one...I can't help it, I love hot chips!
Larks
10-29-2009, 01:37 AM
Should have sucked in my gut for that one...I can't help it, I love hot chips!
:D:D - you beat me to it, the classic photo of the week. But it helps to keep the sawdust out of your sandles:D
You know you're getting fat when you can't see the playground for the patio.
GaryK
10-29-2009, 01:58 AM
Like your choice of safety footwear. :D
I wear thongs, er.. flipflops..
I like the simplicity of that scarfing jig Gary. I haven't seen your thread til now - Redwing looks great! Rick
rufustr
10-29-2009, 02:53 AM
:eek::eek:
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/stave_in_jig.jpg
I just tried a similar pose and I couldn't see my feet.
What a wake up call.:o
Thanks Rick...I'm a minimalist. :D
Apart from the gut that is.
The footwear I should add are bloody awful, you can't walk up stairs without hooking your toes so they won't fall off. However I paid for em so I'm going to wear them out.
The Bigfella
10-29-2009, 06:15 PM
Mate... nothing wrong with good old keratin-capped safety boots.... except when you are welding and a bit of slag drops in.
except when you are welding and a bit of slag drops in.
I've had that happen with lace up steel caps...bugger to get off in a hurry.
The footwear I should add are bloody awful, you can't walk up stairs without hooking your toes so they won't fall off.
Not only that but they catch any rope or power cord you have lying around. Maybe I should get an OH&S manual and a SMS Manual for my carport/shed.
Candyfloss
10-30-2009, 02:34 PM
Maybe I should get an OH&S manual and a SMS Manual for my carport/shed.
You don't have these? (Shock/Horror)
I decided on a change of view and have been doing some work on blunt end of the boat. Here's a stern cleat I made. I was going to put one each side but figured one in the middle was a good idea...I still think it is but it caused and unexpected problem, which I have solved. Can you guess?
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/sterncleat.jpg
I've been fiddling with the rudder as well. The rudder pivots on a 3/4" copper rod threaded on the bottom end to screw into the bottom Gudgeon and though it use to fit quite well it has been a royal pain in that it won't screw in now. I'll pull the pin tomorrow and check it with a straightedge, make sure it hasn't been slightly bent.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/transom_and_rudder.jpg
I've had this foam mattress sitting on the cabintop for a while so yesterday I decided to cut it up and see how it would go as settee cushions. It's not bad but I think I may need denser foam.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/foamfor_settees.jpg
rufustr
11-04-2009, 06:11 AM
Does the cleat foul the tiller?:D:D
You are sharp tonight Rufus, nailed it in one.:D
Luckily my tiller is a fairly solid affair so I was able to cut it to clear the offending cleat.
The Bigfella
11-04-2009, 01:55 PM
Hmmm - concrete blocks? You know they are a no-no don't you Gary? Never, ever get under anything heavy that is on concrete blocks, as they can crumble - and when they do, its rapid. Wood, mate - get some wood blocks.
Hmmm - concrete blocks? They are solid concrete, well cured. Believe it will be many years before they crumble.
Ah, I see what you mean, I do have some narrow blocks on top of the concrete footing...what you can't see is the 2 tonne car jacks that I use to adjust the fore and aft level from time to time.
No they are not covered yet Rob. I'm thinking of using a material called Odyssey III, it's an 11 oz material with a silicon coating on one side. I will also be using it for my sail.
Rob, I will seriously rethink my use of concrete blocks and keep my eye out for timber replacements.
GaryK
11-04-2009, 09:58 PM
Looking comfy in that cabin.
Is your steering vane a Belcher design? Looks a little different to his though.
Okay the rudder hung with the rudder bolt firmly threaded into the bottom gudgeon. The tiller in place with it's slight modification to allow for the cleat.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/tiller_and_cleat.jpg
GaryK, the vane was bought many years ago from Bias Marine as a kit. I have no idea how well it will work yet, but it is a very simple design.
Looks like we have a serious rain on the way. It's dead still and the humidity is right up there...feeling very tropical today.
ian scott
11-05-2009, 01:53 AM
Ummm. Its still gonna be a pain to cleat off your main unless your turning or are you planning on having a lot of lee or weather helm so your tiller is always off centre.
Ah Ian, it's not for the main, it's for stern lines.
My main take off point will be on the top rail of the Pushpit.
Just a refresher on what I am building.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/colourscheme.jpg
I went out to the boat a little while ago while Kerry was on the phone. I sat on the port settee and just thought about the space...sat at the table and imagined getting a chart out. Then following the ancient Australian philosophy of why stand if you can sit and why sit if you can lay down...so I did. I have to say, laying on the settee with the cabin lights on it had a very cosy feel about it. I think I'm really going to enjoy this yacht.
GaryK
11-05-2009, 03:39 AM
now we're talking...
Not temped by the "split rig" Gary?
I might be.. :D
Ah Ian, it's not for the main, it's for stern lines.
My main take off point will be on the top rail of the Pushpit.
Just a refresher on what I am building.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/colourscheme.jpg
ian scott
11-05-2009, 06:08 AM
Stern lines- of course. What a boofhead I am.
You even have the rope going through a fair lead in the photo.
Ian :D
GaryK, the split rig is tempting but I think I will stay with the plain 8% cambered sail for now. The Split rig may yet prove to be one of the most efficient sails ever designed.
Larks
11-05-2009, 03:44 PM
I went out to the boat a little while ago while Kerry was on the phone. I sat on the port settee and just thought about the space...sat at the table and imagined getting a chart out. Then following the ancient Australian philosophy of why stand if you can sit and why sit if you can lay down...so I did. I have to say, laying on the settee with the cabin lights on it had a very cosy feel about it. I think I'm really going to enjoy this yacht.
I did a similar thing when I put the mattresses in the 16 the other day - and promptly fell asleep:o
and promptly fell asleep:o
it would have been easy to do:D
With that rig you will be able to sneak up on all the other Hartleys. Beware the tan sail.
JimJ
Okay back to the saloon table and the chart locker, this shows the basic framing.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/smchartlocker2.jpg
Now we come to the door with it's stiffening framework on the outside. I'm playing around with storage placement of the nav instruments. I idea of using white perspex as a backing material is primarily to reduce scratching of the parallel rule etc.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/smchartlockerdoor1.jpg
Then I got side tracked when I picked up the compass I'm planning to use. I had decided to mount it at the aft end of the cockpit as it is easily read from there and it's furtherest from the engine. However being 2nd hand it's lacking a mounting, so after scrounging around my scrap I found the following bits. On the right you have the raw material and on the left the finished bits.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/smcompassmounting1.jpg
This is the finished and assembled bracket in place.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/smcompassmounting2.jpg
Lastly with the compass sitting loosely on the bracket...the epoxy was still wet.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Redwing/smmounting_with_compass_fitted.jpg
The wires don't go anywhere yet.
GaryK
11-07-2009, 10:47 AM
re: compass @ aft end of cockpit..
dunno about that one, I tend to steer looking forward and having the compass somewhere in that field of view, forward end of cockpit, is convenient.. or on the back wall of the deck house.
Candyfloss
11-07-2009, 12:06 PM
What Gary said.
I understand the reasoning for having it forward and easily in view and this does seem an odd thing to do. I tend to pick a reference point on my course such as a headland or even a cloud and aim for that with an occasional glance at the compass. In this location it really not much more than a glance down. I'm going to try it and if it turns out a dumb idea then I at least know how to knock up a cheap bracket very easily.:D
The compass I would really like is the old WW2 grid compass used in aircraft. I should have grabbed one while they were still around years ago.
http://www.warbirdsite.com/compassP8.jpg
I am rethinking the stow location for my nav gear. Down there close to peoples feet is a bad idea.
Duncan Gibbs
11-07-2009, 04:32 PM
Oi! Gary.....
Snap!!!!
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18573029/377486749.jpg
This one belonged to my Granddad, who trained as MNS on the Conway in the Mersey and later commanded an ML during the war in the RNVR. He had a few yachts in his later years including an H28.
Here's the dapper ol' chap 'imself!
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18126999/284579922.jpg
Good bit of gear the Douglas protractor.:D
It's been that long it took me a while to find this thread.:D
Okay the new Rockwell tablesaw has made it home and I've put it together. Not happy with a couple of things, such as the base seems to be warped, one leg sits high. I fixed that with a piece of chipboard. Having read the written instructions (I did see them, I assembled it from the pictures:D) I think I can fix that by easing of on the bolts and them retightening them.The other thing is the blade elevator wheel is plastic and wobbly. The good news is it has a 2 year warranty against defective parts so I will be phoning them shortly.
I ran a piece of scrap pine though it with the fence set at 40mm...it came out the other end nice and square at 39mm. So okay so maybe I didn't I didn't set it accurately enough.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/tablesaw.jpg
I decided to try out the tilt on a few bits of mast stave offcuts
and see how hard it would be to do a birdsmouth, well the good news is it was dead easy once I had the depth worked out. I think if I take my time and with a few supports I should be able to cut the birdsmouths with this tool.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/birdsmouth_demo.jpg
Larks
02-03-2010, 10:16 PM
Nice to see some movement at the station here Gary. Talking of Hartley's though, I'm just today messing around with making up a wee anchor well for my 16', I'm sick of the milk crate taking up so much space in the bow so am making up a smallish "shelf" that I can lift in and out to clean but that is big enough for my rope, chain and anchor to sit in comfortably.
Falcon500
02-03-2010, 10:18 PM
Should have sucked in my gut for that one...I can't help it, I love hot chips!
hate to bring it up again but i cant help myself.....
But like my former boss would say "You need to have a good roof over the tool shed"
anyway what specie of scrap is that! i wish scrap grew like that around here!
That's a good idea Greg. I thinking along the lines of 40-50mm diameter poly pipe running from the foredeck down into a box under the v-berth to hold chain and warp. The anchor stays on the bow roller.
anyway what specie of scrap is that! i wish scrap grew like that around here!
Recycled Oregon, the staves are 80mm x 40mm.
PeterSibley
02-03-2010, 11:39 PM
That's a good idea Greg. I thinking along the lines of 40-50mm diameter poly pipe running from the foredeck down into a box under the v-berth to hold chain and warp. The anchor stays on the bow roller.
65 mm pvc is easier to get fittings for Gary , I've got some over here should you need it .
I do have some large stuff here but I'm not sure on the diameter.
The scarfing jig is not meant to last and I have already had to replace a side on it...should have used real wood I guess.
Okay back into it!
Brought to you via stavecam.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/stavecam.jpg
I now have half the staves with the birdsmouth cut in them, it's a slow job. My table saw don't like to be rushed.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/birdsmouth.jpg
I thought I would need help to feed the longer staves through but I found if I put a support some distance either side of the saw to support the stave it was quite an easy job.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/mastsample.jpg
I thought I would see how hard it was going to be to round off the mast and to get it close to round proved fairly easy. it will be the finishing off that will take time...if'n I want it to look really nice.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/Ringtail_Possum.jpg
It's been very wet here. This Ringtail Possum has decided Humans build great homes for Possum:D
He wasn't too pleased with all the noise...woke him up.
The Bigfella
03-05-2010, 10:45 PM
Looking good Gary.
I'm happy, it's sooo nice to be making sawdust again:D
rufustr
03-05-2010, 11:48 PM
On ya Gary.
Looks good.
:cool::cool::cool::cool:
PeterSibley
03-05-2010, 11:57 PM
Well done Gary , how did the nasty one turn out ?
it's not too bad Peter. I'm seriously thinking of gluing up the last 4 and then doing the birdsmouth in them. I'm finding it a bit of a bugger getting the birdsmouth in the stave lengths to to line up properly when I come to mating them back together. It will also mean I won't have to clean hardened epoxy out of the groove afterwards. Just means setting up another couple of supports further back and in front of the saw.
I'm making up the fiddles for a saloon table as well; Silky Oak.
Larks
03-06-2010, 01:13 AM
Kate bought back a possum fur jumper from NZ for my brother in law. I'm very envious, it is particularly warm and soft - as much so as cashmere (if not more)! D'ya reckon you could catch the ringy and give him a hair cut?
PeterSibley
03-06-2010, 04:15 AM
it's not too bad Peter. I'm seriously thinking of gluing up the last 4 and then doing the birdsmouth in them. I'm finding it a bit of a bugger getting the birdsmouth in the stave lengths to to line up properly when I come to mating them back together. It will also mean I won't have to clean hardened epoxy out of the groove afterwards. Just means setting up another couple of supports further back and in front of the saw.
I'm making up the fiddles for a saloon table as well; Silky Oak.
About the only advantage of the Makita method is that you only need an 8m length of shed to do it in ,as against 16m for a glued up stave with the saw bench .
About the only advantage of the Makita method is that you only need an 8m length of shed to do it in ,as against 16m for a glued up stave with the saw bench .
You trying to tell me something Peter? :D
PeterSibley
03-06-2010, 06:37 PM
Me ???:D never !:rolleyes:
GaryK
03-06-2010, 07:05 PM
Okay back into it!
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/birdsmouth.jpg
.
Nice birdsmouth Gary.
Thanks Gary. I now have the first 4 staves all glued to length and with luck I may have the other 4 birsdmouthed (spellchecker didn't like that :D) and glued up tomorrow.
Next step will be to taper each stave...then it gets really interesting.
BTW the possum moved out, too noisy for him I guess.
GaryK
03-07-2010, 06:12 AM
I'd rather a possum than the nest of wasps that moved into my bench. (Its an outdoors bench, dont have a shed). :O
Wasps...yes I noticed I have a nest of paper wasps above the boat. I may leave them alone for now but I'm keeping the lighter and WD40 handy.
Miserable day here, very soggy and light drizzle...not cold though.
The Bigfella
03-07-2010, 04:38 PM
That reminds me, I've got a nest beside the back steps that needs to be dealt with. Same spot as last year. I recall doing the WD40 trick... but I mustn't have got rid of the nest.
edhanley
03-07-2010, 05:48 PM
Gary, are you building the "Red Wing" by Karl Stambaugh?
I've been looking at possibly building one in the future.
Do you have any photos of the hull construction?
Mr. KIA:
I'm in the final stages of a RedWing 18 by Stambaugh. Was hoping I'd find a message from someone about that boat in this group. I've been a sailor for decades, but found myself surrounded by hundreds of miles of rivers, creeks, bayous, bays, etc. not navigable by anything drawing 5 ft., so started building a RW18 a year ago. Hope to launch in a few weeks. Really looking forward to getting it out of the yard. I have only a few photos and did not keep any log except material costs. I'd be glad to share them.
Ed Hanley
Well all the staves are birdsmouthed, now to glue them together but first a cup of tea:D
All the staves are now glued full length.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/all_done.jpg
I've been doing a bit more work on my saloon table as well. This one gluing the fiddles onto the dropleaves.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/table_fiddles.jpg
The table is Red Cedar but the fiddles are Silky Oak. When it's all sanded back and varnished it should look good.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/saloon_table.jpg
An idea of how it will look.
The Bigfella
03-09-2010, 01:51 AM
Hey Gary, aren't you supposed to glue them "in the round" rather than like a block of flats?
PeterSibley
03-09-2010, 02:07 AM
Good stuff Gary !:):D:)
Hey Gary, aren't you supposed to glue them "in the round" rather than like a block of flats?
Bugger! You mean that's not how it's done?!
:D
Have a close look at the chart on the table Ian.
PeterSibley
03-09-2010, 03:20 AM
Do I recognise that bedhead ? :D
I think it looks better in this configuration Peter.:D
Okay I have to make a plug for the bottom 2 metres of the mast, so I figured why not do it birdsmouth?
The process really is quite simple and here's the photos to prove.
First cut out your stock, in this case it's 8 @ 40mm x 40mm all 2 metres long.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/mastplug1.jpg
Set your sawblade to cut at 45 degrees and set your fence at, in this case 40mm. Use some scrap stock to set the depth, you want to end up with a nice clean v cut. Run your stock though then reverse ends and run it through again.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/mastplug2.jpg
And ta da, you have 8 birdsmouths. Now where the plug ends inside the mast you need to feather the ends so you don't create a hardspot/hotspot. i used the power planer for this.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/mastplug4.jpg
Now for a test fit, you will need to make up a couple of cradles or jigs to hold the staves in place. I just pinned or cramped bits of scrap together as I went. Fit the last 2 staves by slotting them together like you close a set of double doors.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/mastplug5.jpg
I used 3 lengths of cord to tie it together. Make a loop in one end, run it around the plug and feed the lose end through the loop and pull it tight. I works quite well.
This is the top of the plug, I think it looks pretty cool, like a big wooden flower:D
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/mastplug6.jpg
Well the possum might have left but at least I still have the bird to keep an eye on things :D
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/bird.jpg
Larks
03-15-2010, 04:05 AM
Nice work Gary, I've been waiting all day to see your update here, It's been worth the wait.
Thanks Greg, how are you feeling?
I've been putting in some time measuring all the running and fixed rigging. It's going to consume a bit of rope, the sheet is 45.6 metres...probably 47 metres if you allow for a bit of a tail.
Candyfloss
03-15-2010, 04:33 PM
How did you know that 40x40 staves would make a plug that perfectly fills the hollow inside the mast? The math boggles me.
Ah Candyfloss, now we're talking secret men's business.;)
Nah have a look here, you'll see a great little calculator that will do most of it for you.
http://www.clintchaseboatbuilder.com/resources/calculator-4.htm (http://www.clintchaseboatbuilder.com/12.html)
PeterSibley
03-15-2010, 07:50 PM
I've gotta visit !
I played around with the depth and width of the staves to get a 25mm core in the plug for drainage and wiring.
Hey Peter, you should time your visit for when I'm ready to do the big glue up.:D
Visit anytime, always good to see you.:D
The first photo looks boring but it isn't to me. The staves for the mast have to have a strip of timber laminated along part of one side to bring them up to the correct width at the partners (where the mast goes through the deck), so this is the 2nd one being glued up. The first one is done and tapered...only 7 to go!
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/laminating_stave.jpg
The messy pile on the tablesaw are the plug staves, I had to glue a thin strip on each of those as well....but we won't go into that will we.
The next job was to taper the plug staves to match the mast taper above and below the partners. The foot of the mast will be 175mm in diameter and the plug will stick out the bottom of that 100mm...that fits into the mast socket on the keelson. Once I had them all cleaned up I tried a dry fit and had to use a spanish windlass to get the ends to pull together, I think I'll buy a couple of big hoseclamps for the glue up.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/tapered_mastplug1.jpg
The next couple of photos are just to show the internal fit, and me attempting to show off with the camera.:D
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/feathered_end.jpg
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/plughole.jpg
The last one is blurry but you can see how nicely they fit together.
Larks
03-18-2010, 12:13 AM
You just need to roll that around and have little stars falling all over the place.......:D
Are you working to a plan Gary or is this all in your head? I'd be interested to see the plan if you have one.
It's a bit of both Greg, but I have lots of calcs written down and some drawings. The stuff up with the plug staves was that the staves should have been 54mm x 40mm towards the middle but I didn't check my calcs before I cut them out. Still it wasn't hard to fix...just a bit fiddly.
Some of it becomes clear as it happens.
because the mast tapers I worked out the dimensions for each metre. The calcs give me the inside diameter at each point which also gives me the outside diameter for the plug and of course from that using the calculator I can work out the staves sizes etc for the plug.
PeterSibley
03-18-2010, 05:48 AM
Hey Peter, you should time your visit for when I'm ready to do the big glue up.:D
Visit anytime, always good to see you.:D
Count me in , Coopers Green BTW .:D
Any idea what I'd pay for 100-200mm hose clamps?
Larks
03-18-2010, 06:24 AM
The stuff up with the plug staves was that the staves should have been 54mm x 40mm towards the middle but I didn't check my calcs before I cut them out. Still it wasn't hard to fix...just a bit fiddly.
.
The extra joins may turn out to look even more interesting when trimmed down and shaped though
PeterSibley
03-18-2010, 06:26 AM
Any idea what I'd pay for 100-200mm hose clamps?
More than you want to .:D String or Telstra blue rope .
Larks
03-18-2010, 06:27 AM
plastic ties
PeterSibley
03-18-2010, 06:33 AM
Testra rope and a Spanish windlass .
Ah, okay. I was going to use them to pull the ends of the plug together when I glue it. The Spanish windlass will have to do I guess. I'll get someone to hold the windlass and I'll tie some wire around it, that will hold it nicely. With luck I will be able to do that on Saturday.
If I'm really lucky I'll get another mast stave tapered tomorrow.
PeterSibley
03-18-2010, 06:40 AM
You should be able to wind the stick up ,then twitch it in place ,then the next , then the next .
Cripes! This is all too complicated for me! Looking great though Gary - very impressive!! Rick
I'll just use some fencing wire, that will hold it all in place.
RNFK, it just looks that way:D
Unstrapped the mast plug today.I figure considering the stresses of pulling in the ends of the plug, I would leave the wire on a couple of days...just to be sure the epoxy has cured. When building a mast, the idea is to round off the outside, which is reasonably easy. But when you are making a mast plug to fit the inside of an octagon, well you need to make it an octagon.
I have to be honest here, I really had to sit and study the end of this thing to work out which bits I had to plane off...and not make it round.
I mean look at it.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/Mast/mastplug5.jpg
Anyway I realised I had to plane off the points.... treat them as 45 degree triangles and plane them back to the base.
No photos yet but it has worked. I do have one and half points to plane off yet, I just ran out of day.
Hmm, now I'm not sure which is more complicated - whatever it is you're intending to do to that mast or the window framing of your shed! :eek: Rick
Ah Rick, most of the window space you see there is really more a lack of cladding.:D
As for the rest of it, well it's pushing my brain into areas that would have frightened it excrementless a few years ago:eek::)
I'm enjoying the challenge.:D
PeterSibley
03-22-2010, 07:17 PM
:D:D
I will visit , I really will !
The Bigfella
03-22-2010, 07:25 PM
On yer bike Sibley. Get over there and tell us how it's really looking.
hehehe
If all goes well and there are no calls on my time I hope to have the last stave tapered next Monday. Then it's dry assembly time to fine tune the plug etc.
I've been thinking about how to wire my mast for masthead anchor/steaming light and as I'm using LEDs I don't need high amperage. So I figured why not use extension lead cable, so I went over to mitre10 to see if they sold it. They do but, they had 25 metre heavy duty extension leads for only $19.99...so I bought one of those. At home I have a ten metre very heavy (as in heavier) extension lead I made up myself years ago from some flex I scored at the tip so I will use that for the mast and the 25 metre one can replace it in the shed.
The beauty of the extension lead flex is it is triple core so with a shared earth I get two circuits.
WX
The only trouble with using extension cable is that it in not tinned, will corrode and then give you all sorts of trouble. That is the last thing you need up a mast.
Yeah I have thought of that JimJ but it can't really be helped, I'll solder all joints in the wiring. I could also solder coat the ends where they clamp into light fittings.
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