oars of poplar

[Lazy Jack]

Interested in opinions/experience.
I'm making some oars for an adirondack guide boat and am considering using poplar, which is easily availabe in clear, full dimension 6/4 stock for relatively cheap. These oars will be painted. I've made guideboat oars both of spruce and of the more traditional maple, but I am looing for something a bit more rugged the the (delightfully light) spruce oars and ligher than the harder stiffer maple.

Anyone else out there make oars of poplar?

[Ron Williamson]

Why not?
They can't be any worse than the utility grade aspen/basswood/birch ones available everywhere.
R

[Thorne]

Don't know anything about the rot resistance of poplar, but it works well for polearm shafts (pikes, halberds, partizans, etc) -- reasonably flexible and non-checking if no grain runout is encountered.

[titanicslim]

To tell the truth, I probably wouldn't try it for two reasons: one, it's not terribly strong for its weight, kind of pithily grained and not very durable. It's not rot-resisting nor is it very durable. It is right in-between a good softwood (Sitka, Doug. fir) and a good hardwood (maple, ash). So it's going to be a little heavier than the first two in the dimensions you have to leave for the required strength, and it won't have the durability of the latter two.
Like Maurice said- heat it up and put some product on it. I've had good results with Sys3 epoxy. Maybe try some of that new stuff- that penetrates?

Reason B. I'm absolutely hide-bound and set in my ways. I like doing things my way and with the materials I've come to trust over time.

Having said that, if they are well-balanced in the locks and you are satisfied with their painted appearance, then just try them! See if you can keep from dinging them up ('glass the blade tips) or breaking ('glass the necks) and you might have something.

Only one way to find out:D
Just be sure and testify to the assembled congregation.

Dave

Balance is everything! Balance and not breaking.

[Ron Carter]

Built to the scantlings designed for maple they will be more flexible. Local poplar here has enough fiber in it to cause a lot of drag on a circular saw blade when high in moisture content. Very strong for it's weight when dried. Probably a good choice if you don't leave them laying in the bilge full of water. I have built dozens of canoe paddles and several pair of oars from basswood and have never had a dudrability problem beyond the normal wear from use. Poplar isn't much different from basswood for mechnical properties.

[Bill Lowe]

I have a pair poplar oars that I have used for 20 years +/- they were ugly and bulky and unfinished when I got them. Needed them quick for a new dingy, and after a few years of weathering decided to put a finish on them planed,spoke shaved and sanded them to a better shape and epoxied a seam, have repeated this several times over the years. The are pretty good oars now.

[Lazy Jack]

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll go for it. None of the woods traditionally used for guide boat oars were particularly rot resistent (maple spruce cherry ash in the case of adirondack guide boats) so rot resistence is not a compelling criteria here. Nor are aesthetics as they will be painted (as oars commonly were) Just wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something obvious before 'wasting' the money and effort...although poplar is cheap and traditional guideboat oars are quick and simple.

[Thorne]

I found that putting a heavy bead of thickened epoxy on the bottom edge of the blade really helps to keep the oar from getting nicked or split. Didn't need to use fiberglass cloth, but that might give you more protection if you don't mind the weight.

[Lazy Jack]

Cool idea Thorne

I think I might cut a sort of tennon on the tips of the blades and fill it back out with hardwood epoxied 90 degrees to the grain of the blade. Not to be too fancy but then I don't have to worry about the glass abrading away.

The oarlock straps will be of lignum vitae

[Ron Carter]

Cool idea Thorne

I think I might cut a sort of tennon on the tips of the blades and fill it back out with hardwood epoxied 90 degrees to the grain of the blade. Not to be too fancy but then I don't have to worry about the glass abrading away.

The oarlock straps will be of lignum vitae

Have done that on a numer of paddles. Works well, and in a contrasting wood brite finished looks good too. Even just a hardwood spline let into the end of the blade does wonders for durability.

[Brian Palmer]

I've made some paddles out of tulip poplar and they work fine. A fellow from Shaw and Tenney said at the WoodenBoat Show a few years ago that tulip poplar is a good wood for paddles.

Brian

[titanicslim]

I forgot to mention a very important consideration in oars: runout. Try to get stock that runs fairly straight through what will be the neck. If you can do that I think you'll be OK:)

Dave

[Jay Greer]

My favorite and the traditional wood for oars is ash. It just has the right amount of snap when you are putting your back into it. However, many woods are used for oars and paddles and I don't see why poplar wouldn't work; except that it is rather brittle, so much so that the looms and blades might have a tendancy to part company with each other just when you need them the most. Then, the other consideration is, that Poplar is very low on the rot resistance scale. That means that if they are stored out in the weather that they may rot out under the leathers.
Jay

[Ron Carter]

I don't see why poplar wouldn't work; except that it is rather brittle, so much so that the looms and blades might have a tendancy to part company with each other just when you need them the most.

I wonder if we're all talking about the same exact species of wood. The wood I have experience with is Yellow Poplar and it is neary like ash in its willingness to bend without starting to break the outer fibers. It is part of the aspen family. Without looking it up, tulip poplar is a juniper relative if my memory of Robb Whites writings is correct. I know that regional varitations in growing climate can have a significant effect on wood properties too. Huge difference between the Pacific North West and the Great Lakes.

[neilm]

Well, make a set and tell us how it works. Chances are you will make a second pair anyways.

Ash is very popular for working oars but I like Spruce oars with hardwood tips. I used Walnut and am very pleased. It holds up well and looks great! Spruce and Walnut complement each other very well. I put a strip of Walnut on the bottom of the oar and the tip.

Neil