PDA

View Full Version : Queery regarding trees



Wild Dingo
01-22-2003, 08:04 PM
OKay Ive got a "grove" of 10 large Karri trees that we are going to cut down within the next month or so... these stand between 30 - 80ft tall half have trunks of a width of 5 or more feet around dead straight for over half the length and only a slight bend {rather more of a gentle curvature than a bend} from there up.

Now I know Aussies have used Karri in boatbuilding for years. I want to know the process of keeping them so I can use them.

So do I lay them as they are or on bolsters of some sort? paint the ends and leave {what to paint them with?} or is it best to cut as soon as possible after felled? I know someone once many moons ago gave the length of time per foot for air drying... any Aussies have a time line idea given our different heat cool patterns?

Also West Aussie has a serious problem with white ant so how am I best to protect the fallen tree from infestation during the waiting period... no infestation is near here at present Im thinking as soon as we down them they will come I would like to be prepared.

I also have some questions regarding how I decide which to keep of the boughs and roots that would make perfect knees and such but these about the actual trunks are more imperative for now.

Thoughts?

Take it easy
Shane

skuthorp
01-22-2003, 08:10 PM
Try the WA Ag Dept. or the local forest industry OR, even better, makers of furniture and the local Woodworking organisations who should be able to put you in the right direction.

Johannah
01-22-2003, 09:59 PM
Shane, is this the beautiful heavy red wood we can see in some of the building photos from Oz? If not, what colour and hardness? How is it traditionally used in boats? I am a total wood/tree junky, worse than boats for me. I'd like to make it to Australia and New Zealand some day just to check out all the plants.

Dave Hadfield
01-22-2003, 11:30 PM
Here's a good end sealer. It's a "wax paint" or a paint-on wax. I see it's only in Canada, but perhaps you can find something similar in W. A.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=20099&category=1,190,42942

BTW, I've been to Perth 3 times, visiting relatives. Where do you live, Shane? (If I can drop by and talk boats with someone maybe I'll come visit again!)

Tim.Diebert
01-22-2003, 11:44 PM
It is really important to do the right stuff in the right order. You have a awesome treasure there Shane.
Every species of wood has a optimum method of drying. I would suggest< before you cut> find someone who has solid knowledge of drying this species IN YOUR AREA.
There will be a best time of the year to do it...usually the wettest or coldest time. Keep the initial drying stage slow to begin with. A lot of the worst checking can be caused at this point. I suggest cutting...end coating same with day paraffin wax. Then sawing as soon as you can. then dry piling the wood really well and level preferably with weight on top....with dry strips or stickers well spaced between all the wood. This whole processes of stickering or dry piling should be covered most anywhere. Bruce Hoadlys book is good for this. A good level and solid base is a really good idea. Check your local mills for advice and a recommendation of what species of stickers to use...some woods are not compatible, they leave stains and such.

Have a good plan as to HOW you want your material sawn. Flat (easiest, your sawyer will love you), mixed and rift or quarter sawn (your sawyer will hate you).
You have a huge value in this material and will have to do a ton of work to make sure it is as good as it can be once dry. Your drying area should be shaded or covered with avilable moving air. (Personally...I quarter saw everything...for everything. it is far more stable while drying and will be more stable once dry as well)

An easy way to gauge dryness is to keep a board available from the pile that is small enough to handle regularly...yet similar in size to the bulk of your wood...keep it with all the other stuff, then drag it out every few months or so to weight it...keep tabs on it....once it stays about the same weight, it is about as dry as it will ever get where you have it....and about perfect for any boat you might be building in that same locale. Your wood will have reached EMC...equilibrium moisture content. If you plan on using much of this for interior and exterior joinerwork, it will need more seasoning perhaps. Again, ask some locals about what is best with this wood in your area.

All of this applies to your roots and boughs as well. Try to cut everything when green then dry it...coat all knees and crooks really well. Sawing these will be tough. Some sawyers will pass on these. You may have to get a good ripping blade for your chain saw and count your fingers at the end of the day.
Hope this helps somewhat.
Cheers, Tim

WBW
01-23-2003, 12:05 AM
Shane,

Contact John Welsford, he is in the lumber business in New Zealand and should be able to give you some good advice.

http://www.jwboatdesigns.co.nz/

Good luck,

Bill

Mike Field
01-23-2003, 03:47 AM
Shane, have a look at http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006340 too.
___________

Johannah, I think you could be thinking of jarrah -- quite a bit of that has found its way to the States.

When finished it looks much like this --

http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au./public/timber%20sample%20-%20jarrah.jpg

wolfietuk
01-23-2003, 04:48 AM
Shane,
One of the biggest mistakes ametures make is how they fell the trees. Watch where they land and how. Hitting things on the way down or landing on other trees or bumps in the ground can cause shakes and splits. some that may not show up until the boat is built! There is a good article on selection and felling of trees in fine homebuilding a few years ago. If I can find it I would be happy to send it to you. But as My new baby is due in 10 days and the nursary isnt finished it may be a while. Check out Tautons.com and see if you can get a back issue.
Rick

Andrew
01-25-2003, 08:25 AM
To prevent any biological attack you can paint with antifreeze. I have tried this with succcess. I can't comment with experience on how this interacts with expoxy. I used a 50/50 dilution with water. It is water soluable so rain with leach it out. And as it is toxic to humans and pets, take apprropriate precaution. use the search engine. This has been discussed to some extent on the forum.

Wild Dingo
01-25-2003, 10:22 AM
Thanks for the responses fellas... Dave check your email :cool:

redsail
01-26-2003, 09:52 AM
It is so great that a man can view a forest and see a boat.