window replacement problem

[automn173]

have not had any knowledgeable ideas on how to replace the slider window on our 1966 33ft cavalier chriscraft. We have the window there is just not any obvious way to do it. HELP! whoz yer daddy

[Mark Turner]

We are putting new sliding window in our boat now. I think your Chris has a window set-up similar to our 1965 Owens Granada - where the windows slide on stainless steel window channels. Is that correct?

If you need new window channels, we bought our channels (double channels for both pieces of glass) at Svendsens in Alameda, CA 1-800-824-2391. Its not cheap. You can also pick up the the stainless trim that fits onto the inside edge of the piece of glass that sits in the outside channel. It is stainless steel trim facing outside and cloth/fuzz facing inside. The cloth/fuzz creates a soft seal between the two pieces of glass.

We are cutting the channel to fit the top, bottom & sides (sides may not be necessary depending on boat design & other accessories, etc), using a miter saw & metal cutting blade to get the channels to butt nicely against the boat where there are angles. We use a small metal file to clean up the edges.

We are attaching the channels to the boat with small, flat-head, stainless steal screws in areas where leaking is not a problem (due to design of window frame). In areas where a seal is needed we are adhering the channels to the wood frame with white 5200 (purchased at boat supply store). In areas where the window itself isn't supposed to slide and is to be sealed directly to the wood frame (requires a channel in the wood frame) we are using white PL Poly Window Adhesive (at Home Depot for $5). Some have recommended this stuff, others have said it will fail. If the PL Poly fails, we'll redo it with the automotive windshield adhesive (can be picked up at autoglass shops) - it is apparently the best, but also difficult to undo if you need to remove the window for any reason.

Getting the windows in is a two person job.

I hope this helps.

Mark

[automn173]

Mark, Thank you for the info. We are trying to avoid cutting the wood trim that runs the length of the cabin. That is the only way we can see to get it out. How did you get your windows out?

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

The window trim you allude too should be divided at the bulkheads. It usually was fastened with philips screws, and runs the length of the cabin, then stops at the wall to the forward cabin or the head. It's a total pain in the butt to remove them. It's wise to remove the track and reseal the area with CPES then repaint the track area and make sure the drains are nice and clear. I have a 36 foot 1964 Chris Challenger and I just replaced two windows.

Not knowing the cavalier's terribly well, I wouldn't discount the idea of having to cut the trim... use a back saw or something equally fine to do it.. (as a last resort)

[Mark Turner]

Sorry, our window work on the Owens didn't require us to remove any wood trim, so I can't provide any feedback.

Cheers,

Mark

[carioca1232001]

Mark Turner wrote:


If you need new window channels, we bought our channels (double channels for both pieces of glass) at Svendsens in Alameda, CA 1-800-824-2391. Its not cheap. You can also pick up the the stainless trim that fits onto the inside edge of the piece of glass that sits in the outside channel. It is stainless steel trim facing outside and cloth/fuzz facing inside. The cloth/fuzz creates a soft seal between the two pieces of glass.
My SS window channels are identical to the ones described above.

Hardly 6 years since installed and the fabric (fluff) liner rotted away, although the SS is fine. Harder hit were the horizontal runs, due to wetting and gravity.

So I took out the horizontal runs and replaced with automotive rubber-channel with fluff liner and these deteriorated badly in just 12 months of use.

So I am thinking of renewing those SS window channels and putting them back into service. ;)

Any ideas on materials etc.. that I could use to try and restore the lining on those SS window-channels ? ? Line the channel bottom and sides with strips of ABS plastic of some sort ?

[automn173]

thank you all for your input. whoz yer daddy

[sdowney717]

I refused to buy expensive new channels which I also knew would rot out again.
I simply stripped out the old cloth and plastic covering.
Then I bought some white vinyl house siding from Lowes or HD.
Cut that into strips on the table saw using a masonry friction blade. About 1.25 inches wide.
Made a 1/4 inch metal plate form about 2 feet long with the metal edge sitting up and clamped between two pieces of wood.
Took a vinyl strip laying it down on the edge of the metal plate. Then took a heat gun and carefully heated the vinyl till it became soft and pressed the stainless metal channel window rail onto the 1/4 steel plate with the vinyl siding between the two. Let it cool and move the piece on down and start again. It goes slowly but it works real well.
Finally I trimmed up the edges on the table saw.
The windows have just the right amount of friction and are still easy to slide open. The vinyl channel inserts wont ever rot. I wanted to buy some vinyl inserts instead of being forced to make some but noone heard of this. I am sure none of you have ever heard of this or seen it before.