Fastening oar leathers

[Ross Faneuf]

I have some nice Shaw and Tenney oars, with laced-on leathers. There is nothing which holds them in place but the tension of the lacing, and they occasionally slip. Any suggestions on the correct way to, as it were, nail them down? I want them to stay at the correct location and with the lacing in the right place.

[landlocked sailor]

Shaw & Tenney use contact cement; I emailed them last summer. I used epoxy with fine results. No nails though, please. Rick

[cs]

I just finished making some oars and I left the grips un-varnished and bare wood. Now I've never rowed a boat so I ain't got a clue. I was planing on just leaving the grips bare wood. Should I make leather grips?

Chad

[Chris Coose]

Chad,
The leathers that they refer to are about 8" long and cover the area likely to be chafed by the oarlock.
You did right not to finish the grips but you might lindseed oil them to prevent drying out and checking.

[Donn]

Put a thin coating of contact cement on the oar, at each end of the leather, and tie a nice turk's head onto the cement. They'll keep the leathers in place, and act as oarstops (buttons) as well.

[Scott Rosen]

I broke from conventional wisdom and used copper tacks to hold my oar leathers in place. People have said that the holes will lead to rot, but I'm not concerned. Copper tacks are routinely used to fasten fabrics to wood on boat exteriors, and I used them to fasten the gunn'l guard to my dinghy. I don't store my oars out of doors and the leather doesn't stay wet for very long. The tacks look good and I know they won't move under stress.

[gary porter]

Ross, & cs , the oars that I've made are out of spruce and are coated with epoxy then varnished. The leathers are not glued and so far don't seem to slip. I do soak the leather before stiching them so that might be why. The handles are varnished as well but I cover them with seine twine for a grip. I also put a light coat of varnish and or linseed over the twine.
Gary