fixing a screw-up

[CK 17]

I spent the day installing pine chine logs onto my riverside dingy's oak frames. I used silicon bronze fasteners and bedded with 3m 5200.

On a couple of the frames, the curve of the chine doesn't exactly match the bevel of the frame. In both cases, the chine touches the frame at the leading edge. There is a wedge shaped gap that is about 1/8" wide at the trailing edge.

I'm considering fixing this by mixing up some epoxy and sawdust to match the frames and forcing this into the gap.

My question is: Does epoxy bond to cured 3m 5200?

Does anybody have any other suggestions.

Thank you

Joe Schena

[Wild Wassa]

The filling might require more than one attempt. This is normal.

Epoxy has it's own interest when it comes to cracks. I would leave the sawdust out of the mix and go to a 'compression strength' filler, at first, because straight epoxy remains somewhat brittle. The sawdust too absorbent.

Tape (masking) the cracks well, check to make sure that the epoxy can't run out of the cracks. Check everywhere. The epoxy goes where it wants to go. You might have to use a siringe. Make sure that the epoxy is not 'cold'. Slightly warmer than room temperature (not hot), I find best. You will get good seepage then. Hence the emphasis on the taping.

After you have your cracks/gaps filled, use a bit of sawdust and epoxy to correct the colour if need be. It's then important to seal the epoxy/sawdust layer (if used).

Be carefull that your not trapping air in the gaps. Good luck, this not an easy job in total.

If your good at cutting fine wedges?, too fine for me, Skipper.

Warren.

ps, Check what it says about painting the 3M. It should be in the directions for use. Similar products say, "allow to set for 4-8 days before painting" or something similar. Epoxy glue is only paint in this case.

[ 09-28-2002, 08:31 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

[JimD]

Joe, I can't answer your main question about bonding to the 5200 but hopefully others can. Can you get a sander or file or something in the gap and clean it down to bare wood? If so, thicken the epoxy with a stronger filler than just flour, ie, silica (cabosil, aerosil) perhaps, not microballons, and stuff away. I had gaps just as you describe. After I filled them with silica thickened epoxy I fiberglass taped the corners just to be sure. It would take a sledge hammer to break the joints now.
jimd

[Wild Wassa]

I agree with JD about removing the 3M from the gaps if possible. Something like a broken hacksaw blade or a sabre saw blade (if it fits) will do the job. If you do use a blade, tape areas where the saw's teeth might scrape the hull (outside of the gap).

Warren.

[ 09-28-2002, 08:34 PM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

[CK 17]

Thanks for the advice. I'll do as you suggested. I have some left over epoxy, cabo-sil, woodfloor etc. from a strip kayak I built. I'm glad I didn't toss it.

Joe Schena

[Ross Faneuf]

You'll need to remove the 5200 somehow; you won't get an effective bond to it.