View Full Version : Best Wood Sealer
08-20-2008, 05:11 PM
I'm new to the forum and somewhat to wood boats. I have a question about sealing the wood. I just purchased a 1963 Pen Yan lap in very good condition, it does need its bright work redone and exterior repainted. If I were to sand it down to bare wood the best I could, would anyone recomend a wood sealer and what kind? Years ago we used an oil based paint and would add something along the lines of Thompson's water seal to the paint.
08-20-2008, 05:48 PM
I think many on this forum would recommend CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer).
08-20-2008, 05:56 PM
I like Smith's CPES warm weather formula, but some prefer red lead primer for the painted areas, and I've even seen oil-based Kilz recommended.
Real traditionalists often use old varnish thinned with turpentine as a sealer, but considering how critical the sealer/primer layer is, I'd go for the more modern products.
08-20-2008, 07:23 PM
Others will have better answers than me about painting a lapstrake hull. But while we're waiting for them I'd wonder why you need a water sealer in the paint at all for a lapstrake hull in good condition.
First, decent marine paints applied well, ranging from old-fashioned enamels (Kirby, Pettit, Epiphanes or the like) to polyurethane (like Easypoxy or Brightside), will seal the wood. Second, wood naturally retains some moisture, and you don't want a lapstrake hull to be bone-dry.
Now, if you're talking about sealing brightwork, that's a different issue.
08-20-2008, 07:42 PM
C Ross -
It isn't a water sealer, but a primer/sealer. See the many posts on this forum from pro and semi-pro painters. Even Kirbys sells a primer for their paints, as do many other paint manufacturers.
I'm a total amateur at painting boats, but my understanding is that ANY paint or varnish is only as good as its bond to the wood == hence the need for the best primer/sealer you can get.
08-20-2008, 07:51 PM
I was trying to take Rich's question literally, since he asked about adding a water sealer to the paint. Adding Thompson's Water Seal to the paint, I think, would not help and might interfere with the formulation of the paint.
I completely agree with what you are saying about primer/sealer.
08-20-2008, 09:33 PM
There are sealers and there are sealers. Each has it's own reason and purpose.
Many people swear by clear penetrating epoxy but there are some places where it should not be used. If one is working on wood that is to be finished bright, varnished, CPES should not be used. The reason being that if moisture is able to migrate behind it and create a stain, the wood is sealed in such a manner that no bleach will be capable of being effective to remove the stain.
For sealing joints on bright finished wood, they should be first sealed with shellac before applying an oil based luting compound such as Dolfinite. Wood that will be varnished does not need to be sealed on the surface prior to to the application of varnish unless the wood is to be stained with filler stain. Then, a single coat of clear acrylic sealer applied first will prevent the filler stain from causing the wood to take on a muddy appearance. The most effective sealer under traditional oil based primer is red lead thinned with turpentine to the consistancy of low fat milk. Two coats are sufficient prior to the application of silica based primer. If one does not mind laying on extra coats of enamel, the white primer can be dispensed with. This means creating a build up of enamel that will bond well into the grain of the wood that has been primed with red lead.
Such components as butt blocks are best luted either with red or white lead. In all cases, red or white lead prevents moisture intrusion and will prevent the forming of rot spores.
08-20-2008, 11:02 PM
Just remember there is no such thing as bare wood in a 1963 wood hull, it already has "STUFF" in the wood you will never get out, probally oil based, just work from there.
09-14-2008, 06:51 PM
Thanks everyone for the great info. I've now read alot more on CPES and think it maybe the route for me to travel. Warm weather is my choise at this point, I don't have any inside storage for over the winter and will wait till next late spring, with more stable temps.
Thanks Again Everyone
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