View Full Version : Mahogany Swim Ladder Finishing
Phil Heffernan
07-15-2008, 02:48 PM
My friend Jeff and I just built a swim ladder for the North dock of the CS Boat Club. She's a beaut, I'll post a picture soon...
My question is elemental I'm sure, but what would be the best protective finish for her? Would I use a clear epoxy, then varnish? Or just oil and varnish? Or???
Thanx for the input...
PH
PS, the ladder turns the Hudson River off the dock into a swimmin' hole!
Thorne
07-15-2008, 02:52 PM
Will parts of the ladder be immersed continually, tidally, occasionally, or never?
I'd **guess** that hot-coating multiple layers of CPES and then spar varnish might be best, but much depends on how the ladder, water and sunlight all go together...
Sounds mighty sexy. Gonna pose in your speedo?
Lew Barrett
07-15-2008, 05:59 PM
Keep it simple. Varnish it. A lot. No oil then varnish. I'm not an epoxy then varnish guy myself, but you'll find no shortage of those here. Added: Cris's Ultimate Sole is something to look into. That, or you'll need step pads.
C. Ross
07-15-2008, 06:05 PM
I really like a product called Ultimate Sole. It's glossy, not gritty like non-skid, but it is remarkably skid-proof.
I would only use it as a final coat. It's too expensive to use for build-up and I don't think it has any real UV protection.
paladin
07-15-2008, 06:13 PM
First, is it honduras mahogany or philippine mahogany...the philippine variety is a tropical cedar and will turn urine yellow under sunlight and varnish, so you need a good stain, then cpes or epoxy, then varnish with UV sealer perhaps 5 coats...
If it's the honduras variety I would cpes or epoxy seal and then the varnish, and probably repeat every year...
Phil Heffernan
07-15-2008, 07:43 PM
It's Philippine. So I think I'll stain her up and cpes her, and put the 5 coats of varnish and let er rip....As for the treads, river water promotes a heavy slime growth (half of her is under water all the time) so I'll check out ultimate sole...Any other possibilities for the treads?
PH
Lew Barrett
07-15-2008, 09:43 PM
You can make cute little step pads out of raw teak strips if you want to avoid an additional finish "step." Don't varnish those; let them go gray.
Phil Heffernan
07-16-2008, 06:52 AM
How about the use of salt in the varnish to create a rough finish on the steps? Is there a specific procedure for that?
Lew Barrett
07-16-2008, 08:54 AM
I think Cris's suggestion was made in an effort to avoid the use of a salt cure. How proud do you want to be of those steps?
Michael s/v Sannyasin
07-16-2008, 08:58 AM
Ultimate sole has a beautiful finish and has gotten great reviews from people I know who've used it.
Thorne
07-16-2008, 10:04 AM
You may need to go for a non-ablative bottom paint for the immersed lower steps -- probably safer to risk a bit of copper contact than slipping and falling....
Phil Heffernan
07-16-2008, 10:04 AM
I wonder if Ultimate Sole will be effective submerged underwater for months...
Lew Barrett
07-16-2008, 11:14 AM
That's why I suggested raw teak strips. I'll see if I can take a picture of the sort of step pads that are popular around here. You have to make them, you can't buy them but they are attractive and effective. You can make them in any dimension you want, but it's like putting cleats into the steps. Probably a bit uncomfortable on bare feet, but will make a secure and slip free tread. You can modify them to your own whims for comfort and the style of your treads.
Phil Heffernan
07-16-2008, 05:32 PM
That's why I suggested raw teak strips. I'll see if I can take a picture of the sort of step pads that are popular around here. You have to make them, you can't buy them but they are attractive and effective. You can make them in any dimension you want, but it's like putting cleats into the steps. Probably a bit uncomfortable on bare feet, but will make a secure and slip free tread. You can modify them to your own whims for comfort and the style of your treads.
I think we're on to something Lew, a snapshot would be perfect...
PH
paladin
07-16-2008, 05:40 PM
The other solution would be saw cuts parallel and 1/4 inch apart on the tread surface, but if the ladder is completed, too late...I'll second or third the Ultimate sole...
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