A Few Small Details (Chamberlain 19’ Gunning Dory)

[Bob Smalser]

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101447442.jpg

A turn-of-the-last-century sport boat originally from Massachusetts’ dory builder William Chamberlain, this light dory was designed to safely carry two hunters, dogs and gear to offshore islands in November weather. It’s a lighter version of his double-ended Surf (Rescue) Dory with rig features from his larger Beachcomber racing dory, which was in turn a purpose-built version of working dories dating back to when sawmills first began producing boards economically.

Simple, with a working man’s elegance, the boat is a great family beach cruiser in addition to a sporting boat. I tried to keep my work both true to the latter end of the boat’s period prior to WWII, and also the purpose of the boat. All painted and varnished surfaces were rubbed out to tone down the shine, and all the bronze and brass on the boat will be left to patina naturally. Marsh-grass brown-red hulls and Navy grey interiors were the typical “camouflage” of the era for duck hunting. Being a sport rather than a work boat allows me to tart it up a bit…hopefully without going overboard.

The fitting-out at the end of a project is always incredibly slow and time-consuming….but that fine detail work has always been my favorite part, whether a restoration like this one, or new work.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677606.jpg

All major fittings are bronze or marine brass either salvaged from derelict boats of the era…

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677609.jpg

…or made from scratch.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677187.jpg

Tiller yoke and thwart, mainsheet block, sternsheets and stern painter…

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677612.jpg

…toggle-and-eye fittings on yacht-grade manila would be more period correct than the button snaps I used on my leather work, but I’m not that much of a purist when it comes to function…where you don’t need their strength, toggles require two hands while snaps just one, and when you do, elastic cord does a much better job than manila.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677619.jpg

A nice Leeds reproduction oil anchor lamp and laminated mast that stow away until you are caught out after dark…you can barely see here that the tiller yoke is cambered slightly to match the camber of the gunwales…

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677474.jpg

…along with period bearing compass and fog horn…and some tools and spares.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677476.jpg

Mainsheet block, swivel and served wire pennant…along with the Center for Woodenboat’s original museum registration number.

Continued…

[ 06-22-2005, 10:20 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Bob Smalser]

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101687781.jpg

Hiking stick, tiller control lines, boat hook and side seats.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677622.jpg

Hiking stick stowed beneath the thwart, Wilcox’s smallest winch and handle, Wilcox bilge pump, oar stowage…

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677477.jpg

…and hinged centerboard trunk cap with Herreshoff jibsheet cleat. It’s hinged at the thwart because I used a larger oak Beachcomber centerboard rather than the light plywood board John Gardner drew in his plans for the boat. One complaint about these as sailers is they are too light, with no carry in troughs…my larger, heavier, lead-weighted board and heavy false bottom seem to have corrected that, although I may add some lead shot bags along side the trunk later for solo sailing, as in 25kts and 3’ seas, the boat points surprisingly well, but it’s impossible to go to windward without a dedicated and energetic bailer.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101687782.jpg

Centerboard control rod and boat hook…

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677182.jpg

…the boathook was made to float handle-up and is grooved on the underside to register the location of the hook in the dark.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101681942.jpg

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101687783.jpg

Oars and oarlocks.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101682156.jpg

Jibsheet comb, lashed marline side stay, English Cocker Spaniel. Side stays aren’t a usual feature of rigs this small (90sf of sail), but I use them to lengthen the life of the centerboard trunk joints. Lashed marline ILO turnbuckles is real quick to cut in an emergency to free the rig.

Continued…

[ 06-22-2005, 10:21 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Bob Smalser]

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101687786.jpg

Jibsheet comb, wall-knotted fender and leather oar buttons.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101447336.jpg

Salvaged gooseneck with fabricated bronze mast band…

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677196.jpg

…that folds to make a neat bundle either for rowing or to stow inside the boat.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101447339.jpg

The two boom bridles are lashed for more head room…

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101447327.jpg

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677189.jpg

…and the mast shoulder cleats were built to hold the leathered side stay and jib halyard eyes firmly in place when stepping and unstepping the rig, which can be done safely while afloat with the board down. The mast and boom are hollow Doug Fir…the rig weighing around 30-35lbs.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101677471.jpg

Busy, but very functional. Oar, bow painter and beach hook and chain stowage, still allowing access to the storage compartment and still providing a seat. The oars slide into those molded leather straps without having to go forward to undo the snaps.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101445607.jpg

Shucks…this boat even “motorsails”.

[ 06-22-2005, 10:22 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[dmede]

that boat is all details! very nice work, your quite a fabricator.

[Venchka]

Oh, you are good, Mr. Smalser! Two thumbs WAY up!

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

[Doug Wood]

Very impressive work. She's beautiful. Love that lamp!

[Donn]

Smalser, you've built a museum!

I particularly like this feature:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101682156.jpg

(Where are the rod holders? Bait bucket?)

[landlocked sailor]

Bob, I, too, enjoy your photo essays. Rick

[joejapan]

I've gotta' go along with whoever it was that said you should write a book.

You have a knack for explaining things simply, yet thoroughly enough even a neophyte like myself can understand it.

Your photos alone would make it coffee table quality. Besides guys, and probably a lotta' gals, love looking and dreaming about all that you do with wood and metal.

That's a beautiful boat too, but if you're gonna' keep it a motorsailer, you'd better keep an eye out for a newer motor, the one you've got is starting to age a bit. ;)

[Bob Smalser]

You're right, Joe....the "motor" goes to Basic Training next week in Kentucky. ;)

[Hal Forsen]

You never fail to inspire.
Thanks
HF

[Bill Perkins]

I've admired this boat ( mostly on the printed page ) for many years ,so it's been a great pleasure to watch you outfit one in this way .I didn't realize you'd already been sailing , sounds like fun ! Since you're a detail oriented guy I hope it's fair to ask why , though the bow chocks cant forward , the stern chocks don't cant aft ?

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by Bill Perkins:
...I hope it's fair to ask why , though the bow chocks cant forward , the stern chocks don't cant aft ?They probably will when the right ones in the right size and right material come up on Ebay's salvaged boat parts for the right price.

I buy salvaged hardware every week two or three boats ahead....but I haven't found the right stern chocks yet for this one. The bow chocks are larger to support both painter and "anchor" lines, as it's a beach hook, not an anchor....and the painters will be bowlined to longer lines to tie the boat off to onshore trees when camping.

[Bruce Taylor]

http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/icons/icon14.gif http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/icons/icon14.gif http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/icons/icon14.gif http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/icons/icon14.gif http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/icons/icon14.gif

[StevenBauer]

I hope the next project is bigger so the Newfie doesn't have to stay home. :D

Very nice. Thanks for sharing.

Steven

[yorgie]

That 19' Bryant is about to be the luckiest old plywood runabout out there.I've learned a lot from your documenting of this project.

Chris

[ 06-22-2005, 09:11 PM: Message edited by: yorgie ]

[htom]

Thank you, Bob. Beautifully done and presented.

[L.W. Baxter]

Must be the best equipped small boat I've ever seen. It will take some discipline to keep everything in its place, but I doubt that will be lacking. ;) And somebody is gonna have to get "caught out" after dark, just to give that lantern a try. Could be good for rock fishing, no?

I guess I missed something, this boat has been christened STERN BOW?...I like it!

[Meerkat]

When I saw the thread title, I immediately thought of the CWB's Chamberlain, I boat I had much admired. I knew the boat had been sold, but I had no idea you'd bought her.

She looks a lot better than she used to! Great job! smile.gif

[Tom M.]

Geez Smalser, why is it you only began posting on this forum 2 years ago? What were you doing before this stint of marvelous posts?

Yes, that is the best equipped small boat, like, EVER. Very good. I learn from you you know.

Funny thing, I was just about to post something on your last thread about how I knew all about the details of this little boat of yours, but I had no idea what it looked like from 10 feet away. Well, now I do. :D I think we get to view your projects as you view them: In little portions!

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by Meerkat:
When I saw the thread title, I immediately thought of the CWB's Chamberlain, I boat I had much admired. I knew the boat had been sold, but I had no idea you'd bought her.

She looks a lot better than she used to! Great job! smile.gif Here's the boat you knew, Meer, and I bought at auction:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/101695892.jpg

1960's construction...polyester resin and Bondo on fir ply and yellow cedar. I had to replace all the frames and part of the bottom because of it.


Originally posted by Tom M.:
What were you doing before this stint of marvelous posts?
Among other things...advising the local Coast Guard on equipment/training and restoring 19th-Century teak lateen-rigged Barkas and other antique small native craft for the Sultanate of Oman. (If you can believe that. ;) )

[ 06-23-2005, 01:06 AM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Dave Fleming]

ACES!

[Arko]

WOW!

[Ellis Rowe]

Keep posting Bob. You'll save me a trip to the boat show for my annual fix.

[Garrett Lowell]

Incredible, Bob. I can't wait to read the future article in WoodenBoat!

[*LB]

Wow! :eek:

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

W :eek: W !!!!!!!

[whb]

Wow,

I think someone said you should write a book.

Heck, I think you already have enough material in the incredible threads you have posted here.

Thank you very much for the chance to look over your shoulder.

Howard

[Bob Perkins]

Very Nice Bob... Thanks for taking the time to share these.

For every response you get - there are 100 lurkers smiling smile.gif

Take care,
Bob

[abe]

Bob, Looks good from here in the Northeast. Nice to see a New England design on the west coast.

You have taken some liberties to "tart" it up a bit without going overboard. I have a photo somewhere showing sports in a gunning dory wearing Sunday best.

abe

[dmede]

Originally posted by whb:
Wow,

I think someone said you should write a book.

Heck, I think you already have enough material in the incredible threads you have posted here.

Thank you very much for the chance to look over your shoulder.

Howardbob, ive said it before and i'll say it again, people would pay for a dvd with all (or most) of your little photo essays on it. i certainly would. they are informative as well as just plain fun to look at.

dave

[Vincent Serio III]

Very nice boat, Bob.

I like the interior color--what brand paint and what exactly is the color?

[Bob Smalser]

All paint is alkyd deck enamel. California's Kelly Moore Tred Coat Industrial Floor Enamel. 23 bucks a gallon.

High gloss is the only option....I rub it out with red Scotchbrite and paste wax for matte....and grey Scotchbrite and wax for semi-gloss.

Dries fast and dries hard over red lead....and lasts just as long as the 75-a-gallon "marine" stuff.

The colors are KM's stock floor enamel grey....a darker Navy Grey than was originally on the boat. And I mixed KM's stock Tile Red with Nut Brown to get the color I liked for the hull and spars.

I buy half-pint cans to make up touchup paint from the leftovers when I mix colors.

[ 06-23-2005, 08:36 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Tom Robb]

Nice work, Bob. I think you've just about got the hang of it :D

[Jim Budde]

Bob .. do you have a picture of the other end of lines coming from the tiller yoke? I am assuming the lines attach to something forward of the picture. I am building the Tropic Bird. I really want a tiller but am interested in alternative ways of steering.

And thanks for all your postings and pics .. kinda like an on-line Wooden Boat University .. with very affordable tuition

[Paul Denison]

I'm amazed at how fast you build such quality. Have you been feeding crumbs to those little birds outside your window?

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by Jim Budde:
Bob .. do you have a picture of the other end of lines coming from the tiller yoke? IOutboard end eyespliced to a padeye....inboard end thru the cheek block on the yoke into a turning block st the thwart. Eyespliced ring attaches to hiking stick or the lines can be pulled by hand.

Takes some getting used to if your last boat had a tiller, but this rig leaves lots of options open and leaves plenty of room in the boat....and room is important, as with the dory's narrow bottom, there is less room in this boat than there is in a 20' Grand Laker canoe.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6490387/101832192.jpg

[ 06-23-2005, 09:09 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[vern benson]

Bob, been lurking here a long while but I must say your craftsmanship always impresses me. Nice work. Good luck to the young guy.

[J. Dillon]

Beautiful work Bob. I for one would like to see your work in the magazine. More people would be exposed to your expertise then just the Forum readers, Do you submit any of your stuff to WB editors ?

JD

[Leon m]

Originally posted by Bob Smalser:
[QUOTE]19th-Century teak lateen-rigged Barkas and other antique small native craft for the Sultanate of Oman. )oooh, I'd like to see some photo's of that...got any?

You are the finest of craftsmen Bob,I remember being just awestruck when you were posting the progress on the rudder. Words can't describe how
impressive that was...YOU ROCK !!! :cool:

[Leon m]

and furthermore...you should enter that beauty in a show...just MHO.

[paladin]

..absolutely purty.......

[TomF]

Jesus Murphy, Bob. Makes me weep. How many years of craftsmanship did it take to learn how to do that?

t.

[BrianR]

Fantastic. An inspiration.

[pcford]

quote:Originally posted by Bill Perkins:
...I hope it's fair to ask why , though the bow chocks cant forward , the stern chocks don't cant aft ?

They probably will when the right ones in the right size and right material come up on Ebay's salvaged boat parts for the right price.

I buy salvaged hardware every week two or three boats ahead....but I haven't found the right stern chocks yet for this one. The bow chocks are larger to support both painter and "anchor" lines, as it's a beach hook, not an anchor....and the painters will be bowlined to longer lines to tie the boat off to onshore trees when camping.Don't get it, maybe there is something I am not understanding. Aren't the handed chocks on the stern simply on the wrong side respectively, and wouldn't this be remedied if they were each placed on the opposite side?

[Paul Girouard]

Take your time , read the whole thread , salvaged hardware used,,,, still lookng for the "right stuff ". Bob is looking / for the vintage / right stuff . Happy to be here smile.gif PEG

[pcford]

Take your time , read the whole thread , salvaged hardware used,,,, still lookng for the "right stuff ". Bob is looking / for the vintage / right stuff . Happy to be here [Smile] PEG I did and I saw the quote above. But aren't they just on the wrong side. Desire for "right stuff" aside, wouldn't the lines would lead correctly if they were reversed. These are "handed" chocks...meaning only one side of boat is appropriate. I always have to put them up and think for a bit. And I've been known to have to reverse them before I start fastening. A stern line should lead aft, not at right angles to the vessel.

[Paul Girouard]

I have faith in what Bob said , his work gives me confidience that he is right . I'm not a boat person or even a sudo expert online . My faith in Bob's work is in his post's , pictures and written explanations . With the work he post in pic's I have faith in what he says . Ya he could be a big fat lier like most :( but those photos seem to be real tongue.gif Builders build , other post . We build what we choose , but we build ... Happy to be here , PEG

[LazyJack]

It looks good Bob. I was interested in your technique for knocking back the gloss and covering with paste wax. I would do the same to my boat only I'm afraid of creating a problem with future maintenance of the finish. Is there a solvent that will clear away the film of wax without dissolving the finish underneath? Will paint thinner or turps do this?

[Ian McColgin]

It's amazing how the same design can sustain differing levels of marvelous detail versus wood butcher simplicity. I built Leeward to this design a bit over thirty years ago. I did not then nor do I now have Bob's stunning level of craftsmanship. I built her to be dragging 2,000' long hand longlines with lots of ling cod over the gunnel and I got what I wanted.

Bob's in a universe of detail oriented craftsmanship that few of us can enter but all can admire. I just need a bucket to contain my saliva.

[pcford]

I have faith in what Bob said , his work gives me confidience that he is right . I'm not a boat person or even a sudo expert online . My faith in Bob's work is in his post's , pictures and written explanations . With the work he post in pic's I have faith in what he says . Ya he could be a big fat lier like most [Frown] but those photos seem to be real [Razz] Builders build , other post . We build what we choose , but we build ... Happy to be here , PEG I believe I've been complimentary of Mr. Smalser's work; in any case, one does not have to rely on "faith" to see what I am talking about. Look at the image of the rear end of the boat. Then imagine how the line would lead if the chocks were exchanged side to side.

As to your comments about "sudo experts" I respect Mr. Smalser's contributions. On the other hand, I have been rolling out of bed in the morning and going to work doing boat restoration professionally since the early 70s. I believe I am qualified to make a comment.

But you don't have to take my word for it. Take a look at the picture of the stern. Your own two eyes will show you what I am talking about.

Or have we entered the era of "faith-based" boatbuilding?

[LazyJack]

Ah, so they are on the wrong side. Just add a third imaginary gunwhale coming into the stem and you can see that the chocks, if switched would be 'bout perfec! I den't see et roit off!

[Paul Girouard]

So Bob are the deals PC is talking about just on the wrong side ??? :( Happy to be here ;) PEG

[Bob Smalser]

Just cause I do a lot of building doesn't mean I don't screw the pooch occasionally...especially when I get tired at the end of a project.

PCFord is entirely correct....here is a pic of the fix.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/102039275.jpg

It is the front chocks that has one mismatched that I'm looking for mate for:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/7711190/102039271.jpg

[Paul Girouard]

CRAP :( So sorry pc :( it happens once in awhile we all screw up . My Grandfather used to say "A man who never maded a mistake, never maded anything." Happy to be here ;) PEG

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by LazyJack:
It looks good Bob. I was interested in your technique for knocking back the gloss and covering with paste wax. I would do the same to my boat only I'm afraid of creating a problem with future maintenance of the finish. Is there a solvent that will clear away the film of wax without dissolving the finish underneath? Will paint thinner or turps do this?Mineral spirits or turps removes wax easily.

I just dip the Scotchbrite in soft furniture wax and rub inthe sunlight so I can see what I'm doing to the surface....then buff with a soft towel after the wax dries.

Mineral oil works well as a rubbing lubricant, too.

For fancier jobs, I use hard felt pads and a mineral-oil slurry of a couple grades of pumice followed by rottenstone.

The paint or varnish has to be hard....deck enamel rubbed out after a a few weeks to a month and soft spar varnish longer.

There's no damage or future maintenance problems I'm aware of....I've been doing it this way (sans the new Scotchbrite) for 40 years.

[LazyJack]

Wooo Hooo! Thanks Bob. No more glossy dory for me! Soon as I finish my guideboat I'm breakin out the scotchbrite!

BTW, I liked the stern chocks better the other way. :D

[DrakeChristensen]

Stunning and inspiring...

[LeeG]

satisfying, inspiring,,oh hell, thanks for the view

[pcford]

quote:Originally posted by LazyJack:
It looks good Bob. I was interested in your technique for knocking back the gloss and covering with paste wax. I would do the same to my boat only I'm afraid of creating a problem with future maintenance of the finish. Is there a solvent that will clear away the film of wax without dissolving the finish underneath? Will paint thinner or turps do this?

Mineral spirits or turps removes wax easily.

I just dip the Scotchbrite in soft furniture wax and rub inthe sunlight so I can see what I'm doing to the surface....then buff with a soft towel after the wax dries.

Mineral oil works well as a rubbing lubricant, too.

For fancier jobs, I use hard felt pads and a mineral-oil slurry of a couple grades of pumice followed by rottenstone.

The paint or varnish has to be hard....deck enamel rubbed out after a a few weeks to a month and soft spar varnish longer.

There's no damage or future maintenance problems I'm aware of....I've been doing it this way (sans the new Scotchbrite) for 40 years.

----------------------

Pumice and rottenstone will work but a less tedious method is to use flatting solution in your paint. Any good paint store will have it.

It you are trying to get rid of dust, microfine paper, abrasives and buffers will work. I've written regarding this in the past. Pumice and rottenstone will work here as well, put it's slow going.

Never had any adhesion troubles overcoating previously waxed surfaces. Couldn't hurt to wipe down with turps though!

[Paul Girouard]

pc We good ? HTBH ;) PEG

[Bob Smalser]

I'm game to learn about flattening agents from somebody with more experience with them, because I've had poor results from them.

On this side of the ditch, flattening agents for paint are talcum powder, which takes so much to tone down high-gloss paint, the end result is a much softer surface than the paint started out at.

I'd rather use hard gloss paint, cure it thoroughly, then rub out my surfaces.....it's no different or more difficult that all the wetsanding commonly done to racing bottoms on bigger boats....You can control the exact degree of matte desired....

...and it also wipes away all the insect legs, runs and drips for a better surface.

[ 06-27-2005, 12:27 AM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[pcford]

I'd rather use hard gloss paint, cure it thoroughly, then rub out my surfaces.....it's no different or more difficult that all the wetsanding commonly done to racing bottoms on bigger boats....You can control the exact degree of matte desired....
It's not hard to use pumice and rottenstone, just tedious.

But I did want to mention that one does not have to wait weeks for a finish to dry before rubbing out. When rubbing out varnish with microfine paper and abrasives became popular in classic speedboat restoration about 15 years ago, it was thought that you had to wait a couple of weeks or more for the varnish to cure.

In fact, just a few days (5 or so depending) is sufficient. Never had a problem.

[Paul Girouard]

OLive branch is there. so sorry pc . HTBH ;) PEG

[TomF]

originally posted by Bob Smalser
1960's construction...polyester resin and Bondo on fir ply and yellow cedar. I had to replace all the frames and part of the bottom because of it.Bob, in your restoration, what did you do about the fir plywood? Replace it all? I assume it was the bottom...

We've read so much about fir checking etc. unless it's expoxied and glassed ... but I can't imagine you doing that. In your view, what's the long-term solution ... replacing the ply with real wood?

I've wondered about making this design, using epoxied/glassed marine ply for the bottom and garboards, and using real wood for the other strakes. Seemed a reasonable solution for a boat that would live mostly on a trailer.

T.

[Bob Smalser]

There's nothing at all wrong with plywood, fabric and goo (except expense). But the goo has to be epoxy.

Polyester resins used too thickly seem to attract water while forming such a hard, impervious skin that once the water gets in, it can't get out and the wood rots.

This is my second '60's-vintage, polyester-plywood restoration. The first one was problem free....but had no Bondo. This one only had rot where Bondo was used....but Bondo was used to fillet the frames to the plywood.

The problem is compounded by Bondo and Gelcoat paint being so hard, that you can't detect the rot using the traditional icepick probe. Several experienced builders....including me....went over this simple boat yet the rot wasn't detected until I sawed thru the frames to install the cb trunk. Beneath that hard polyester, the WO frames and three plywood lams beneath them were dust.

Some polyesters stick to wood as well or better than epoxy, BTW.....that old Bondo is tenacious stuff, and hard as granite.

I'd surely fabric all my exposed plywood these days, as most ply isn't as good as the '60's-vintage ply in these old boats. In the old days, fir ply could be soaked thoroughly in linseed over a period of a month or so then painted with alkyd oil paint and it wouldn't check. I wouldn't take that bet on the stuff coming out of the DF plywood mills like my neighbor Simpson today.

Same goes for the better, more spendy plywoods, IMO....I don't prefer plywood because I can't see into it to look for sapwood. You can see how it's made, and even in the best plys, that wood is tortured with heat and rotary knives pretty severely in the manufacturing process and needs protection. Tortured wood simply rots quicker than gently airdried wood. Add to that the skinny, sap-laden "studwood" used to make DF ply today versus the fine old "peelers" of 30 years ago, and there's little doubt in my mind that modern DF ply won't last as long as solid wood.

[ 06-27-2005, 10:02 AM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[TomF]

I'm lucky enough to live where I can source decent cedar from a local sawyer. I'd love to build traditionally, and would much rather spend $ on decent solid wood rather than for pricey ply and glass/epoxy.

The sticking-point is that mine will be a trailer-living boat. Not sure if traditional lapstrake is as practical. The discussion's gone both ways ... but I'm ready to be convinced.

t.

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by TomF:
I'm lucky enough to live where I can source decent cedar from a local sawyer. I'd love to build traditionally, and would much rather spend $ on decent solid wood rather than for pricey ply and glass/epoxy.

The sticking-point is that mine will be a trailer-living boat. Not sure if traditional lapstrake is as practical. The discussion's gone both ways ... but I'm ready to be convinced.

t.In cold New Brunswick, I wouldn't hesitate to put a new carvel hull on a trailer, let alone lapstrake.

Old, tired carvel (and many lapstrake, too) hulls that formerly lived in the water for years and are suddenly relegated to trailer life leak.

There's no reason at all why a new carvel hull built for the trailer and kept on the trailer has to leak any more than a ply and goo boat has to leak.

And the folks who tell you that you don't have the skills to build a traditional boat yet require you to accurately bevel and butt difficult plywood edges for battens and fillets are either trying to sell you plywood and goo, or simply passing on that lie.

If you've never built a boat, I recommend beginning with one of Gardner's simple, quick crossplanked skiffs or punts followed by either a dory or a fancier pram. Then you can look at that Haven or its more complicated ilk, whether plywood or solid, with some confidence, understanding and skills.

[Paulyboy]

To those that are interested, there's a website out there, although I don't recall it, that has links to numerous Bob articles. If encapsulated and edited into an outline with some type of continuity, they would create a medium sized book on woodworking with a definite slant on the "life aquatic" and the use of handtools when they would serve the carpenter best.Bob- step up and tell us where to find your wisdom, because with all modesty aside, you do have most of us beat hands down when it comes to the consistent day after day work ethic of hand tools without turning a blind eye to present day technology. Just look at the collection of well tought out digital pictures Bob uses in his posts and you'll see he's no stranger to modern science. :eek:

[TomF]

Built a 21 foot bilge keeler out of goo/ply with my Dad decades ago, or rather, we started with a half-done 'glass hull, and built the rest from there. Loved building the spars out of sitka ... god only knows how much that wood cost! Needless to say, the later joinery on that boat was much better than the earlier ...

I can't begin to say how pleased I am to hear that a new traditionally built boat would probably live just fine on a trailer. That would be my strong preference, but I didn't think it would work.

My carpentry skills have been helped along since by gutting and renovating three antique houses. Spent the weekend simply milling new divided light sashes to fit into old windows, but over the past year or so I've installed lots of crown moulding, renovated a kitchen and bath, made wooden wainscoting for the dining room, etc...

... I'm nowhere near a real boatbuilder's level of craftsmanship, as most of the pieces of wood I've fitted have been straight! But my woodworking's getting much better, and I'm more than comfortable with the idea of building a traditional wooden boat, of a relatively simple form. If I ever get the house finished (IF), a gunning dory is first on the list, likely to be followed by a Crotch Island Pinky, or a wherry.

t.

[ 06-27-2005, 04:06 PM: Message edited by: TomF ]

[dmede]

Originally posted by Paulyboy:
To those that are interested, there's a website out there, although I don't recall it, that has links to numerous Bob articles. If encapsulated and edited into an outline with some type of continuity, they would create a medium sized book on woodworking with a definite slant on the "life aquatic" and the use of handtools when they would serve the carpenter best.Bob- step up and tell us where to find your wisdom, because with all modesty aside, you do have most of us beat hands down when it comes to the consistent day after day work ethic of hand tools without turning a blind eye to present day technology. Just look at the collection of well tought out digital pictures Bob uses in his posts and you'll see he's no stranger to modern science. :eek: be this it?
http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm

[Bob Smalser]

The two main sites that post my stuff are Ellis Wallentine at Wood Central...

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/articles.pl

...and Cian Perez at his woodworker's site:

http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm

Neither of those are complete.....as WBF is good about archiving old posts, they are all stored right here:


Tutorials and Articles Posted on the Woodenboat Forums

Tutorials

Are Your Glue Joints Repairable?

http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=011857

Pipe Rudder Finale

http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=011025&p=

http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=011020&p=

Traditional Centerboard and Case

Part I http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=011020&p=

Fabricating Mast Bands

http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=011783&p=

Retro Lathe Tools

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010593

Sail Making

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009761&p=

The Versatile Sweep Brace

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010416

Rehabbing Woodies

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009194

Haunched/Drawbored Mortise-Tenon Part I

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010446

Haunched/Drawbored Mortise-Tenon Part II

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=010449&p=

An Inexpensive 50-Degree Smoothing Plane

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009153

Rehabbing Old Planes

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=008638

Rehabbing Old Chisels

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=008610

More Chisels

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010117

Spoke Shave Tune Up

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=008974&p=

The Drawknife

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009003

Chopping Mortises, a Quick Tutorial

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=008649

Traditional Construction….Fast!

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=003158

Restoring Varnished Hardwood

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009010&p=

Files, Filing, Filling and Finishing…..Metal

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009048&p=

Tuning Card Scrapers

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009193

Making Spar Planes Inexpensively

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010004

A Simple Pair of Seven-foot Oars

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009692

A Simple 3-Board Door

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009794&p=

Linder Rigging Knife

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=002504&p=

Wiring Harnesses for Small Boats and Trailers

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009784&p=

Maintaining Traditional Oil Skins and Tin Cloth

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001998

Have a Trashed Chain Saw?

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=002115

Sharpening Handsaws

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009165&p=

8-Siding Gage

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009685

Making a Better Coping/Dovetail Saw

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010335

Basic Sharpening

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=010358&p=

Wood Chisel Survey for Beginners

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=002681

Machine Cut Through Dovetails

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010550#000000

Articles

Ring Count

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009431&p

Air Drying Stacks

http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009419&p=

Shop-Made Joiner Tools

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=002041

Snow Today At Sprague Pond

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001466

Milling Ear’s Fir

http://www.baileys-online.com/earlsFir.htm

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=shop&file=articles_291.shtml

Cruiser Was a Logger’s Dog

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=5&t=012147&p=

Big Madrone

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=002338

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009291

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009306

“Whew!” (Site-Milled Lumber)

http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=015404

Timber Frame

http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=5&t=011950&p=

A Few Small Details

http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=011830&p=

Dogs Watching Television

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009840&p=

Bird’s Mouth Boathook

http://woodenboat-ubb.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010797

[TomF]

To my regret, some of the WB archived links didn't work for me today. I hope your mileage varies, and they haven't been pruned.

Specifically, the "Linder Rigging Knife", and the "Better Coping/Dovetail Saw" threads didn't work, though some others did.

T.

[pcford]

For whatever reason, the server is sporadically down today.

[Bob Smalser]

Huh....for some reason, the changes I made from "media hypernet" (the old address) to "woodenboat-ubb" (the new address) didn't take in MS Word.

Correct the url to woodenboat-ubb. and they'll work.