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View Full Version : Bilge Pump Leather Rehab?



Willin'
06-15-2008, 04:11 PM
I know this was discussed a while back but the search engine didn't turn it up soooo.

I went to use my bronze, hand powered piston bilge pump the other day and got nada. I can't find any make or model on it but it's about 3" in diameter and 18" long. Used to pump like a mofo.

When I pulled the piston out the leather was dried up and shrunken, probably a good 1/16" clearance from the cylinder walls.

It's old and will eventually need replacing but the screws are pretty well frozen up and I really don't want to risk breaking it this early in the season.

What would be the best product to soak the leather in to swell and soften it? I initially thought about neatsfoot or mink oil but don't really want to leave an oil slick when I use it.

Thanks,

Mark

Bob Smalser
06-15-2008, 04:50 PM
Museums use Pecard Leather Dressing antique formula and I can attest to its effectiveness. Beeswax and some proprietary solvents.

http://www.pecard.com/

But your leather really needs replacing for the pump to work well. I'd soak the screw for a few days in Kroil and give it a rap with a brass hammer to loosen. An impact driver may also work. If it breaks, buy yourself a left-handed drill bit and matching Easyout.

Jay Greer
06-16-2008, 01:16 AM
There are a lot of ways to cut a new leather for a bilge pump. To begin with, you need oil tanned leather that has been soaked in neatsfoot oil.
This is the old formulae. The leather is hard to find. The only source I know of for oil tanned leather is from the Wooden Boat Foundation in Port Townsend WA. They have the leather custom tanned for marine use. After that, you need a gasket cutting rotery tool or a shoe maker that can cut the leather for you. This process was once very simply. I am finding now, that doing the right thing has become very complecated! The proper sealant for the leather gaskets is tallow. This can be made at home by asking your local butcher for a bit of kideny fat. This can be rendered by boiling it in a pot and skimming off the upper layer of fat. The result will be a sweet smelling solid grease for leathers. During the time of rendering, it will drive most people out of the kitchen. It will, most likely, smell like hell while it is on the stove. But, trust me, after you have skimmed off the fat, there is no smell. It is the same grease used for sealing the cork joints in wood wind instruments.
Jay

Willin'
06-16-2008, 09:33 AM
Thanks guys! Good stuff!