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View Full Version : Outboard does not fit transom, can I remove this part of the outboard?



dmede
06-06-2008, 02:49 PM
Just got my new to me outboard, did a test fit and found that part of the stern bracket hits a structural part of my transom (a 1x1 cross member that comes up the back center of the transom). I assumed the clamp would fit around the cross member but this motor has a thin metal piece screwed in to the bottom of the clamp.

Can I remove this piece of metal? What is it doing?

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3070/2556934682_f53a5fc11e.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3096/2556110201_dfdb05b9ec.jpg

Brodie Brodie
06-06-2008, 02:54 PM
put the motor to one side?..and sit on the other..

ChrisBen
06-06-2008, 03:25 PM
You've done a beautiful job on Olallie there Dave. You could take the piece to a metal fab/machine shop and have a 1"x1" box welded on to fit around the wood and cut out the middle.

Gary E
06-06-2008, 03:29 PM
I'd remove the pretend brace your pointing to on the boat... It does absolutly no good mounted on the outside. Place one INSIDE where it will do some good.

or....
If the motor is small, place a block on the top of the transom to jack up the motor a little... Be carefull where the top of the prop ends up if you do that, you dont want the prop above the boats bottom..

or ..
as Chris sugested take it to a machine shop and have it altered...be carefull if it's a higher HP motor...
WHAT HP is it?
How much intereference is there??

dmede
06-06-2008, 03:31 PM
I have the piece off with the motor on the boat now and I can't feel any movement in the two sides of the clamp. I could put a bolt through one of the tilt holes (I don't need the lowest one) to support the sides of the clamp.

Or I could probably cut a U shaped piece to fit as the original but go up and over the top of the cross member. The original is aluminum as well. I may try that... off to OSH.

Thorne
06-06-2008, 03:45 PM
I'd remove it and see if you get any changes in the lower metal brackets after some use.

You'll want to pad them anyway, or put something between the metal and the varnish, so just increase the thickness of the pad at the point where you have removed the metal part. You'll have the purtiest and most unique outboard on the Bay!

Hey, you wood boat guy, eh? So why not make a replacement part outta wood, screw it onto the metal holes left from where you removed the part. Make the wood crosspiece hump-backed to bear on the vertical wood brace/knee as well as on the surface of the transom.

I always think of the force that an outboard creates on a mount / transom to be as if you were levering it forward with a 12' 2x4 sticking up and tied to the motor shaft. So you'll want a good surface for that lower part of the bracket to bear against whenever you run that outboard in reverse.

switters
06-06-2008, 03:54 PM
I'd remove it and see if you get any changes in the lower metal brackets after some use.

You'll want to pad them anyway, or put something between the metal and the varnish, so just increase the thickness of the pad at the point where you have removed the metal part. You'll have the purtiest and most unique outboard on the Bay!

Hey, you wood boat guy, eh? So why not make a replacement part outta wood, screw it onto the metal holes left from where you removed the part. Make the wood crosspiece hump-backed to bear on the vertical wood brace/knee as well as on the surface of the transom.

I always think of the force that an outboard creates on a mount / transom to be as if you were levering it forward with a 12' 2x4 sticking up and tied to the motor shaft. So you'll want a good surface for that lower part of the bracket to bear against whenever you run that outboard in reverse.

Thats what I was thinking.

Had a similar problem on an old glastron inside the transom. A bit less of a clearance issue, but several washers were added and everything was hunkydory. looking at the whole thing again you could make a wooden spacer piece for the back of the transom out of .25 ply one on each side, as a rub rail, and move the cross member up where you need it, forming an H shape.

Canoeyawl
06-06-2008, 04:16 PM
I might make a new metal braket shaped to clear the boat...

dmede
06-06-2008, 05:17 PM
Ok I made up a small u shaped bracket, seems to work ok. I bet I could do without the thing altogether but who knows.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3257/2557241472_9f0cb21e64.jpg

Mike Vogdes
06-06-2008, 06:08 PM
I think you can live without it. Those two notches probably fit a matching plate on a transom at one time.

Canoeyawl
06-06-2008, 06:35 PM
Perfect, I think you want it -
the strap is to keep the aluminum casting from spreading then click... cracking

htom
06-06-2008, 06:43 PM
I think you want it, and have found the substitute.

S B
06-06-2008, 10:10 PM
Cut and place a 1" piece of pywood arround the stick on the transom making it flat. The mounting bracket can accomodate thicker board than ,your picture suggests, you have.