My 3rd boat - and some questions (pics)

[Bob Perkins]

Hi Everyone,

I haven't posted for a while - doing a lot of racing this summer.

My big news is that I just purchased a 1928 Herreshoff 12 1/2 project boat. The previous owner sailed it for 2 years, then started to restore it.. Then let it sit for an additional 14 years.

He just wanted to be sure it would get done - and I will finish it.

However - I'm not one to stop one project to start another - So my Biscayne 22 Mahogany Runabout will be completed first - then the Herreshoff will come into the shop to be worked on. I plan on doing a lot of the *pre-work* on the Herreshoff (milling lumber, cutting frames, transom, refinishing the mast etc..) while building the runabout.

My Herreshoff 12 1/2 in its cradle. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid139/p53e0a6ae6d8435c6171b95269617efcd/f7103726.jpg

Transporting the boat back from Annapolis
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid139/pf69987cb7f7bd1e5a505af67977c7340/f7103723.jpg

Original Builders plate - Has some epoxy on it - Need to find a good way to clean it without ruining it..
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid139/p1ea14a7de2575f58efb9f956227b5f2a/f710371f.jpg

The first frame for the storage building
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid139/p726707a5c770de00b929224b468592f7/f710371e.jpg

Nearly Completed Building
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid139/pc15fdce2891b23625b48a6c9f6b2c93c/f710371a.jpg

The boat seems to have all of the original hardware - most in decent condition. The rig is in great shape (just needs cleanup and varnish)

The hull needs a lot of work, all new frames, stem, keel, transom and more.. A may/should be able to salvage some planks.

My goal is to restore it as original as possible. Researching the boats similar to mine has begun - along with restoration techniques.

I'll be leaning on all of ya in the future on how to do some things.

Finally - any tips on the building? - things I should look out for? I'm guessing I want as much air flow as I can get to prevent having a greenhouse.
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Regards,
Bob Perkins

My out of date site is at:
http://robert.perkins.home.comcast.net/

My Current project is at:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291051329
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[Steve Lansdowne]

What, you're not putting the 12 1/2 in the house and moving yourself into the shed?

[THX712517]

Making a Herreshoff sit outside, in a shed? Blasphemy!

[Pete Dorr]

Nice project.

I'm not 100% sure but I think there is a chapter in "Frame Stem & Keel Repair" from the Woodenboat store that documents a transom replacement for a 12 1/2.

Pete

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

The builders plate....

I would use a razor blade scraper on the epoxy under a nice bright light in the kitchen and gently remove whatever contamination is there. I am assuming by the picture that the plate is brass, and the letters and numbers are painted indentations. After you completely clean the plate off, you can scrape out the old black paint with a needle. Sharpen the end of a large one into a mini scraper on a stone. After the plate is completely cleaned and polished ( I usually use a buffing wheel with compound, rouge should be good) then take a small !!!! brush, cut some of the bristles off to make it reallllly small, and then paint in the black portion with model paint. If you spill any over the edge, let the paint dry for about 15 minutes and then wipe the surface with a lint free cloth with a little thinner on it. The brass will adopt a nice patina quickly even after shining.

I had to restore my CC insignia's with the little guy in the boat and the birds and the letters. Blue red and white. The insignia's had been rechromed. I got all the way through the first one and found out I reversed the white and the blue. ARRRGH. :mad:

This may sound like a kinda nutty obsessive post, but I only have ONE boat tongue.gif

[ 09-10-2004, 10:48 PM: Message edited by: Peter Malcolm Jardine ]

[Bob Smalser]

Original Builders plate - Has some epoxy on it - Need to find a good way to clean it without ruining it..
Propane torch and a vinegar-dampened rag will remove the epoxy without abrasion or damage. A razor blade is too risky.

Then restore it as Peter suggests to renew the enamel....I'd use nothing coarser than White Rouge on it.

And I'd use enamel in the lettering then bake it in the oven @ lowest setting for half an hour to harden the paint.

[ 09-11-2004, 12:29 AM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Big Red]

Bob, sorry to jump in on your thread. I am just wondering, how do you (or anyone here) think the 12 1/2 would handle rough water? After you rebuild her of course smile.gif

With the keel and ballast, and to my untrained eye, a nice underwater shape, I would think they could take a bit of rough weather, if they had to. What do you think?

Nice boat mate, good luck with the rebuild smile.gif Nice work on the runabout too.

Cheers, Red.

[ 09-11-2004, 05:16 AM: Message edited by: Big Red ]

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Most well designed keel boats will take more than the sailor will. ;) I sure the 12 1/2 would be wet in a sea, but other than that quite capable.

[Scott Rosen]

From what I've read (and I've read a lot about the 12.5), it is an extremely sea-kindly and dry boat. It was designed for use in Buzzard's Bay, which is known for its short, steep chop. It's a small boat with the feel of a much bigger boat.

I've got the plans for Joel White's Haven 12.5 in my closet, waiting for me to finish a bunch of other projects.

[brian.cunningham]

:cool:

[Bob Perkins]

Thanks for the info everyone.

All of the bronze (blocks, cleats, etc.. ) Is very green with age too..

Is there a miracle dipping chemical to fix it up? Or should it stay green because it's 76 years old and I shouldn't mess with it?

Thanks Again,
Bob

[rbgarr]

I helped restore a 12 1/2 about 30 years ago and sailed it afterward.

Don't buff the bronze hardware. It looks out of place on the boat IMO.

The planking and frames are very thin making refastening and recaulking a ticklish job. We could never get her to be really tight and she leaked a bit. I imagine you will find that the plank fastenings are not bunged, but puttied over. Expect to have some difficulty maintaining a smooth surface. Resist if you can the temptation to use an epoxy based putty to avoid that problem... it makes it hell to make repairs/replace fastenings later.

We took great care to prop the hull up all the time, especially the forefoot and beam, so she wouldn't lose that sweet plump shape and pert sheerline. Other restorations we looked at failed to do that and the boats looked sadly saggy. They looked very different.

She creaked and groaned a bit in rough water, but sailed like a dream. :D :D

BTW- what and where have you been racing?

[ 09-12-2004, 10:36 AM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

[HarryH]

Bob-

Your photos depicting your current project are inspiring: nice shop, lovely mahogany, tidy workmanship. Thanks for documenting and sharing your progress....builds a fire under the rest of us.

-Harry

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

All of the bronze (blocks, cleats, etc.. ) Is very green with age too..
I would buff them up and clean them, then let them adopt a new patina... it won't take long. If you clean them up, it smooths out the surface and allows you to make a good inspection too.

[Bob Perkins]

Thanks everyone for the nice comments and advice. I'll have plenty more questions in the future.

rbgarr - I sail PHRF out of Marblehead on Wed Nights and some weekend races on someone elses boat - Then sailing on my Plastic Classic (1973 Ranger 23) on other days.

Take Care,
Bob

[Nics]

Ciao Bob,
could you send me more details about frame construction for the storage building?

Grazie
Nics...
"Cafè de la paix"
Baia

[Bob Perkins]

Nics: - The Building

It is rather simple in construction.

Each rib of the frame is made of 1x3x 12' spruce strapping. Over here it is a low quality lumber.

I used wood stakes and made a bending patter out on the lawn, bent two of the boards around them to make the shape.

Next I used ~5" cuttoffs as spacers and screwed and glued them to the frame. They were spaced every couple of feet along the length.

Now - Repeat. I kept the original in place on the ground and made the others on top of it so the blocking would line up.

I spaced each rib 3' apart. Next build a bottom frame and put a ridge beam in place.

That's about it, it is somewhat self explanitory from the pics from here...

Hope this helps.. I think my final cost for the building was ~$150. It is 9'x18'.

ps. I finished covering it in plastic last night. Boat will be nice and dry smile.gif

Take Care,
Bob

[Nics]

Thank's Bob...
I will build one of this garage on the next week...
Ciao

Nics...
"Cafè de la paix"
Baia