Anybody recommend 'Stabilizing Binoculars' ?

[George Ray]

Anybody recommend 'Stabilizing Binoculars' ?
(All info from WestMarine web site)

Fuji: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/19589/377%20710%201385/0/Stabilized%20Binoculars/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710%201385&Ne=0&Ntt=Stabilized%20Binoculars&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5003&subdeptNum=14&classNum=12400
http://images.westmarine.com/full/239744.jpg

Nikon: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/262035/377%20710%201385/0/Stabilized%20Binoculars/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710%201385&Ne=0&Ntt=Stabilized%20Binoculars&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5003&subdeptNum=14&classNum=12400
http://images.westmarine.com/full/8343881.jpg

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http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/westadvisor/10001/-1/10001/Binoculars-ImageStabilizing.htm

How they work
Fujinon’s Techno-Stabi IS binoculars (above) are built with dual piezo-motion sensors and gyro position sensors that are linked to direct drive motors for instant and continuous stabilization with low battery drain. They are widely used by the military and law enforcement. At a fraction of the price, the new Techno-Stabi achieves a high degree of stabilization in all planes. Two direct drive motors—one horizontal, one vertical—each controlled by its own piezo vibration sensor, instantly stabilize the image. Phase-coated roof prisms provide superior clarity. Power consumption is minimal, and they are completely waterproof.

Nikon’s StabilEyes binoculars are built with a digitally stabilized gimbaled servo system to provide a view that is unaffected by hand shake or vibration. The StabilEyes provide constant stabilization when activated and Nikon’s original dual mode system allows for use on land and sea by compensating for both roll and shake. The StabilEyes line is 100% waterproof and fogproof and each includes a floating strap. Power consumption of the AA batteries is minimal in spite of the constant image stabilization functions.

[Lew Barrett]

I have a pair of trusty Steiners, but stabilized binoculars seem like a brilliant idea if you have the budget for the Fujinons, which seemed like the winners to me. I'd like a pair of modest backups to go with them though.

[Pernicious Atavist]

They're great, but drop them and you may cry...rent out that spare room in the house to pay for them.

[StevenBauer]

$1200 is just about my boating budget for the year. Maybe someday....


Steven

[boylesboats]

$50.00 binoculars, a tripod, duct tape, and a steady nerves will do just fine for me... and don't rock the damn boat will ya...

[Bob Cleek]

Binoculars are for watching horseraces, not for use on boats.

For my money, you'll get a lot more bang for your buck putting your money into optics than electronics. They want $1200 for 14 x 40's? Okay, you get a bit more magnification, but not a lot more light. (I suppose they want you to buy a night vision system, as well!) 7x35's will afford sufficient magnification and adequate light gathering ability for most recreational applications. 10x50's are right up against the amount of "jiggle" you'd want to deal with on a small boat, but will be far, far better than 7x35's for night use. That said, a professional quality spyglass will pretty much eliminate the problem of image stability while providing good light gathering ability. The "gold standard" is the BU SHIPS 16x USN Quartermaster's spyglass, WWII surplus and generally there's one or two on eBay. Figure to pay four to six hundred bucks for one in mint condition. This one isn't:

http://www.wellsmaine.com/antiques/spyglass/navy-spyglass.jpg

http://www.wellsmaine.com/antiques/spyglass/normal.jpg

http://www.wellsmaine.com/antiques/spyglass/telephoto.jpg

[boylesboats]

Binoculars are for watching horseraces, not for use on boats.

For my money, you'll get a lot more bang for your buck putting your money into optics than electronics. They want $1200 for 14 x 40's? Okay, you get a bit more magnification, but not a lot more light. (I suppose they want you to buy a night vision system, as well!) 7x35's will afford sufficient magnification and adequate light gathering ability for most recreational applications. 10x50's are right up against the amount of "jiggle" you'd want to deal with on a small boat, but will be far, far better than 7x35's for night use. That said, a professional quality spyglass will pretty much eliminate the problem of image stability while providing good light gathering ability. The "gold standard" is the BU SHIPS 16x USN Quartermaster's spyglass, WWII surplus and generally there's one or two on eBay. Figure to pay four to six hundred bucks for one in mint condition. This one isn't:

http://www.wellsmaine.com/antiques/spyglass/navy-spyglass.jpg

http://www.wellsmaine.com/antiques/spyglass/normal.jpg

http://www.wellsmaine.com/antiques/spyglass/telephoto.jpg

quite a reach there...

That reminded me, one of my huntin' buddy who got a scope eye.. For shooting from a moving vehicle..
Yup, he didn't wait for me comes to complete stop, fired a shot.. All I did was laugh my ass off seeing a bleeding ring around his eye.. Sucker should of known better, I stop huntin' with him... I have no idea where that bullet went:eek:

[Lew Barrett]

Here's where I disagree with Bob in respect to using them on a boat, though I agree with Pernicious Atavist; delicate.

Image stabilization on a boat strikes me as the most useful feature possible. What do you use them for on a boat? Finding marks, seeing other vessels at a distance, searching shorelines, or just for fun. All of these activities put you on an unsteady footing if you're at sea, and it takes very little magnification to make a blur of what you see through the glasses. It's no less true for a telescope, which will be even longer and have more magnification as a rule. Plus, binoculars are great at night, where their larger objectives will gather light better, and that's as true for being underway as it is for laying on your back and looking at stars.
As an amateur astronomer, I have a collection of optical goodies including an 80x20 spotter, a 3.5" Questar, and the aforementioned
7X50 Steiners.
Anyway, why not consider a less expensive pair of stabilized binoculars for use underway, and perhaps a good pair of true marine binocs for use at other times, or to hand off to guests when there's something interesting to see.

Here's a good place to buy with a decent selection:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/1016/Binoculars_Stabilization.html

[George Ray]

We have two pair of Steiners in our family. A couple of years ago I upgraded from my trusty Tasco's w/ compass to these:
http://images.westmarine.com/full/3675568.jpg
My wife has the the same Steiner's but she got them new about 20 years ago and has been using them at work ever since. They have a lot of character/patina.

So stabilized binoc'd are not for bread and butter but for icing on the cake.

Here is a thread on cruisers forum:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f47/image-stabilized-binoculars-5856.html

On SSCA:
http://ssca.org/DiscBoard/viewtopic.php?t=5736&highlight=

Celestaire comments:
http://www.celestaire.com/pdf/Binoculars.pdf

[Ian McColgin]

Not sure I'd recommend stabilized binocs. Any conditions where stabilizing would really help involve enough flying spray that the real problem is the blur of water on the objective.

But I'm so used to my 7x50's that I might just not know of the advantages of higher power.

[soba]

I have an ooold pair (we're talkin' 1992 vintage) Canon stabilized binocs. 14x50's. I love them and you couldn't talk me into anything else. They survived a *short* dip in the drink oncet, and after careful disassembly, alcohol, and drying, they are perfect once again. I had to have the prisms re-aligned at a photo shop, but that was only $30.

Nothing like them in a chop, or with any vibration. They are a bit overkill on land, though...

[Yeadon]

Funny, I just read a great article on this topic in the magazine Good Old Boat. It was in their July/August 2005 edition. The writer, Larry Zeitlin, thought that anything above a 6 or 7 power was overkill, and warned that stabilizing binocs would eat up batteries ... so you needed to be prepared.

I'd scan the article in, but I doubt that's kosher.

[Lew Barrett]

George, apart from Soba it looks like you and I are the only really interested parties here. I say if you have the cash, make the splash. You already have two pairs of superb marine binoculars, so buying the IS stuff woldn't be out of line. How long do you suppose we get to live? If you've got it, flaunt it! I would.
I've wanted a pair since I tried them a few years ago. I can't seem to hold even a pair of Commander IIIs steadily enough to be useful in a two foor chop, and that's a daily condition here. I love them for celestial work on the right night, but that's not what I got them for.
IS makes a lot of sense to me.

[py]

I've looked through the military version, only on land mind. Absolutely flamin fantastic. The complete absence of any shake is brilliant. Quite extraordinary. I'd love a pair on a boat.

[mwybo]

Bob, what do you think of new, straight through spotting scopes as an alternative to the quartermaster spyglass ? In your view, and from a strictly functional perspective, are modern optics, features, and size a better value for money?

Mike

[Lew Barrett]

Mike, if I'm not mistaken, the optics on Bob's 'scope don't harbor a prism. In optics land, the straight path is always the best, since there's always some loss through a prism.

[jeffery carson]

I've not used stabilizing binocs (can't afford 'em right now) but I just took John and Amanda Neal's Offshore Cruising Seminar. John said they threw their old 7x50's away and all they use now are stabilizing.

Jeff

[Peter Eikenberry]

A few years ago I was boat watching with a friend in Annapolis. I had a Bosch and Laumb 50 X 70. I couldn't make out the name on a boat. My friend handed me a stabilized binocular. Unbelievable! The differenece was amazing. You would have to use a concrete foundation to get that clear an image. I was going to rush out and buy one. Then I saw the price! Whoa. So I haven't bought one, but they are amazing! If you are on a moving object like a boat they would definitely be worth it.

[George Ray]

Fujinon Techno-Stabi 14x40 are on the way from Celestaire.

I wanted 10x40 thinking that they would be a bit brighter and would be almost usable when the batteries died. However, Ken@Celestaire called Fujinon and 10x40 have been discontinued, so I went with the technology that is still in production. Will report the results/impressions.

[Tom Hunter]

I'll put in a word of support for Bob. At one point I learned how to use a spyglass and it was an amazing improvement on binoculars.

I don't have one now, but do plan to get one. If you are trying to identify boats or bouys and can use a spyglass you get much greater range. That means you know where you are sooner, and the sooner you know where you are the more options you have for setting course or making other decisions.

It does take some practice, and I mean some hours of practice, to learn how to use a spyglass. Also you can't hand it off to your freind and say "here, take a look" because your freind won't have the touch needed to get on target and in focus.

But if you want to know which bouy you are looking at, or which lighthouse, water tower, or other landmark the spyglass is the way to go. Also if you want to know if that ship on the horizon is coming or going, the spyglass will tell you long before the binoculars do. Remember, we get to climb the mast hoops for a longer horizon, or at least some of us do.

[Terry Etapa]

George - I've been looking at stabilized binoculars. Got a report on their use onboard?