Help re Restoring a '47 Rhodes Sloop

[Ross]

My 1947, 34' Rhodes sloop is presently under extensive restoration. The boat is yellow cedar on white oak with a mahogany cabin. The hull is stripped of its paint, plugs removed and galvanized nail heads ground clean. I'm replacing the lower ends of eight ribs and scarfing to the remaining rib over three plank widths. Doing the remaining rib in place scarf joint with a chisel. Is there a better method.

I am glue lamming 1/4" white oak strips to replace the 1 1/2" rib. What is the best glue for the job?

I am planning to re-fasten with bronze 2"-#10 bronze screws. The planks are 1" on 1 1/2" ribs. Are these suitable size screws for the job?

[Thad]

Cutting the scarf will be challenging. I'd be inclined toward a lap joint through fastened.
Probably epoxy.
#10 is light for that heavy work. They might be stressed with the oak and glue, not to mention movement as she swells. I'd be thinking #12 or even #14 and I'd be happier with copper rivets, especially as they hold the laminations together supporting the glue. 10-24 machine screws would be easier to do alone expecially in the cramped bilge but again I'd think 1/4-20.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

In the traditions of the WBF, here's some partly differing advice!

Cutting the scarphs should not be too bad. All Mirelle's steamed frames have had the lower ends replaced that way. I would not use a half lap joint here, as the stress will tend to open it up, and you will be back where you started!

I would however agree with Thad that this is a job for epoxy glue, and that copper nails and roves are a very much better way of fastening, if you can get a helper to dolly up for you. I'd go for 12 gauge screws if a helper is not possible, but try a 14 to see. You can drive the nail to hold the laminations in place and rove up after you are done with the sticky stuff if you use a reasonably slow hardener and some good thickener.

[ron ll]

Many here know much better than I, but isn't refastening with bronze if she is galvanized nailed a potential problem?

[dreyer]

Hi Ross,
Tell us more about your boat please!

I own a Rhodes 33 which is undergoing a major dose of love in San Deigo.

I found the easiest & most thorough method of repair was to chisel out the whole frame, push through the old fasteners then source some bending oak. I fabricated a steam box from scrap wood and used a turkey deepfryer ($50 from homedepot) as a steam generator.

I removed the cover boards and drove the soft & flexible frames down with a large mallet then fastened in place.

Easy and rewarding work!

James.

[Ross]

Thanks for the info. I will persevere with the scarf joins. I will have to go with the 1/4-20 bolts, what metal would be most suitable? Can these fasteners go through the plank and the rib? SYSTEM THREE EPOXY makes SILVER TIP G88 to be used as a gap filling adhesive for wood joins. Comments? All roads lead to # 12 screws, confirming what a local boat person suggested.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Dreyer is right - much the best way to do the job.

[paladin]

I would clean the oak with a clean cloth and acetone 4-6 hours before you epoxy it in to remove the surface oils....and well ventilate the area..

[pcford]

I am glue lamming 1/4" white oak strips to replace the 1 1/2" rib. What is the best glue for the job?



It is well-established that epoxy has difficulty glue white oak. There are some epoxies that are formulated to glue white oak.