Motor well removal and replanking

[Dave Williams]

I am removing a motor well from my 30 ft. sailing dory. She is traditional dory construction. Fore and aft bottom planking and riveted lapstrake topside planking. The bottom has two layers of planking. A 2 1/2 in. layer of fir planks and a one inch layer of white oak planks over that.
She has a very strong bottom!

The removal of the well trunk obviously leaves a big hole in the bottom with squared off plank ends. I have some ideas as to how to deal with this but would be interested to hear what you folks have to say. I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Here's to kindness,
Dave

[ 04-23-2003, 05:29 PM: Message edited by: Dave Williams ]

[Dave Williams]

Since I havn't had any responces to this question I will tell you what I am thinking and see if anyone has an opinion.

I would cut the oak planking back a fair bit short of the existing hole which would leave the fir planking ends exposed and still square ended. The fir bottom planks are random width and quite narrow some of them only 2 to 2 1/2in wide. I would bevel these square ends to allow me to then scarf in pieces of fir planking to close the hole. Next I would do the same with the oak planking but this planking would be longer and lap over the repaired area of fir planking.

When she was in the water the fir planks never swelled enough to tighten up, probably because they are so narrow and there are many of them which means a lot of seams. I think the reason the oak layer was added was to try to get a tighter bottom.

Questions.

1) Because the fir planking is random widths and fairly narrow. Should the scarfed in pieces match these widths. I guess I think so.

2) What type of glue to use for these scarfs. As you know epoxy and oak can be problematic but getting fits good enough to use resorcicol may be tricky doing it in place and laying on my back underneath.

3) Would it be reasonable to screw the mating surfaces together to hold them tight as the glue kicks.

4) Should I try to address the issue of the fir planking not swelling tight or rely on the oak planking to provide a water barrier. I hesitate to caulk the fir planking seams for fear of pushing out the garboards, but I don't like the idea of putting googe in these seams either. Whatever I put in them would have to be applied from inside the hull. I don't expect or even want the boat to not leak at all but it was fairly extreme before.

These are my rambling thoughts I would like to hear others. Thanks.

Dave

[ 04-23-2003, 05:51 PM: Message edited by: Dave Williams ]

[Dave Williams]

Just thought I'd try this one last time. Any ideas?

To kindness,
Dave

[ishmael]

Dave,

I think the reason no one has answered is because your situation presents a difficult problem, and it's difficult to know exactly without looking at it.

Is the well sound? How about just fitting a plug, a door in the bottom, to improve the hydrodynamics, and leaving it?

Scarfing in pieces and staggering the layers sounds like the right track, but it also sounds like a LOT of fussy work. Cutting scarfs in place in numerous planks, making sure the patch planks are the correct length. :rolleyes: I see hours and hours of fussing. Presumably, laying on your back and working overhead. Yipes!

Unless there is a compelling reason to remove the well, I'd leave it. You can use it to keep your oatmeal stout at the perfect temp. ;)

Pics???

[ 04-27-2003, 11:39 AM: Message edited by: ishmael ]

[R.I.Singer30]

Originally posted by Dave Williams:
Just thought I'd try this one last time. Any ideas?

To kindness,
DaveI think everyone is down in the bilge battling the evil dr Bruce G.

Thanks for resurfacing Ishmeal and Ian W. smile.gif PEACE DAN L.

[ishmael]

Just bumping this to the top. Perhaps someone else has a better solution.

Dave, have you torn out the well?

[Paul Scheuer]

Any chance of a picture, Dave ?

[Wiley Baggins]

How about laminating a 3-1/2 inch(!) ply plug that is just shy of a tight fit? Then install a ledge inside the well (all four sides) to which the plug can be [bedded and] fastened. Caulk the "just shy” gap (goop recommendations anyone?) and enjoy your new lazarette.

[ 05-01-2003, 10:20 AM: Message edited by: Wiley Baggins ]

[Dave Williams]

Ish and others,

Thank's for the ideas and thought. Sorry I havn't responded sooner but I havn't been here for a while.

Ish,
Your idea of leaving the well in place and planking it over is really a very good one, especially since I could keep my beer and vegies chilled there! BUT it's to late! She has a big hole in her bottom as we speak. The well was almost midships and was intrusive in the center cockpit which is going to turn into the galley. It was also leaking badly.

I think I have an idea as to how to make the scarfs. First of all I have some VERY strong 4in. straps with their own winches that I can hang from the overhead in my shop and at least turn her up on her rail so as to have better access to her bottom. Next I would use long, steped scarfs to fill in the missing planking. There is a lot of material there, expecially in the 21/2 in fir. I think I can cut these scarfs with the router and a jig to guide it so hopefully I can get some good fits. I would do the same for both the fir planking layer and the overlapping oak planking. An advantage that I have because of the overlapping planking is I can get some very good fasteners through the various planking layers and into the floors.

Questions still remaing. What glue or bedding compound to use. The latest WB has a very good article on bedding compounds.

As far as pictures; I have a friend with a digital camera and scanner but I'm not able to post them; but I could Email them to anyone who would post them.

Anyway it helps me having some support here. Thanks!

Here's to kindness,
Dave