Make Buffer w/ Electric Motor

[Mark Turner]

We're making a stainless steel buffer out of an electric motor by attaching a work arbor to the electric motor shaft, then the buffing wheels to the arbor. Our challenge is that we have an electric motor with a keyed shaft and the key needs to be removed in order to get the work arbor on. Does anyone know how to remove the shaft key w/o damaging the shaft? It seems to be on there pretty good? Are they removable? Thanks you for your help.

Mark

[ 06-02-2005, 12:51 AM: Message edited by: Mark Turner ]

[Mark Turner]

Well, I was just being cautious. I simply tapped the key out with a screw driver and hammer w/o damaging anything.

[Stiletto]

What sort of fitment to the motor shaft does the work arbor have?

[P.I. Stazzer-Newt]

A polishing mop motor usually has heavy duty bearings and a very solid shaft - the bending loads are considerable. These things need to be bolted to the floor really solidly.

I'd be inclined to use belt drive to a separate shaft unless I knew that the motor (casing and shaft) was adequately stressed for this application.

Two more words - DUST and FIRE.

[Mark Turner]

It has two set screws. Item B in the photo is the work arbor that I'm attaching to the 5/8" motor shaft. It allows me to bolt a couple buffing wheels to the motor. Based on my research (I'm a novice), this is how we're approaching it. We're planning on attaching the motor to a stand that will give us some room to move the pieces around. The stand will will be fixed to the floor. We think that, if we buff properly, buffing won't damage the shaft or let smoke out of the motor. Proper buffing is to NOT apply any significant pressure to the wheel. We will remove scratches and do set-up first with 400 grit and then 600 grit paper, then go to a wheel sewn every 1/4" with grey stailess compound. Then a wheel with a single seam at the base for the coloring using chrome oxide. A guy who restores old woodworking machines has put together a similar tool for polishing stainless parts to his machines. If this works out, its going to be a far cry cheaper than the $300-$400 for a professional buffing machine or the countless dollars to pay some guy to do it (we have a lot of beat up stainless parts). We'll give it a try and I'll report back on how things turn out. Thanks for the fire caution, we'll be careful.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid171/p779873fe83ab1fa88ed682527fda75c2/f3df1e7f.jpg

[ 06-04-2005, 11:51 AM: Message edited by: Mark Turner ]

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

I've been using such a set-up for about 30 years. Mine is an old 1/3 HP motor 1750 rpm with a 6" wheel.
First, watch out for cast whitemetal arbors. They are cheap and can loosen up. The 5/8" shafts are not all that stout and the adapters usually put the wheel close enough to the motor that the motor can interfere when buffing something large.
You didn't say what rpm you are looking for. Buffing wheels work best when their surface is moving at some optimum number of surface feet per minute. You can get higher SFM with bigger wheels but they will bog your motor more easily. I am not that familiar with all the technicalities. If you are using 6" wheels a 3450 rpm motor might work better.
Have fun and watch out for burned fingers. That stainless heats up fast.
Charlie

[Bob Cleek]

I've used the same rig for ages too. Works fine. I mounted mine on a base that attaches to my lathe bed with the same bolt that holds the tool rest. (Did the same with my big slow knife grinding wheel.) That way, I can use my lathe motor right where it's mounted to power the buffers.

[Mark Turner]

I tried my rig out last night. It worked very well. The motor turns at around 3500 rpm and I'm using 6" wheels. That gives an effective rpm of 3500*6"/4 = 5250 rpm. I've read that 7000 rpm is optimal for power buffing (that would imply using an 8" wheel), but I like the control on the tighter wheel. I did a great job through the "set-up" stages, buffing with the grey compound. It looks good enough to go onto the boat, but just short of professional. However, when I switched to the loose cloth wheel and chrome oxide (green compound)to do the final coloring, I didn't achieve any improvement. I'm sure its technique or perhaps the cloth wheels that I am using. Any advise anyone? I'll post pictures this weekend.

By the way, the whole rig cost less than $100. I bought the motor, electric cord, switch and buffing wheels at Harbor Freight. I picked up the motor arbor (which was a little hard to find) at Woodcraft for $6. The 3 hp (advertised rating, not actual) motor was on sale for $65. Oversized for the purpose, but I can use it for other things.

[ 06-03-2005, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: Mark Turner ]