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View Full Version : ?? about gluing boards that are a bit sappy



dmede
01-06-2005, 01:58 PM
I bought a few planks of port orford cedar last summer that have been stickered in my shop (garage) waiting to be made into a canoe bottom. Last month I planed them to the right thickness (from 1/2" to 3/8") and then put them back up to wait until I had more time to glue them together. I pulled them down last night and noticed that they were sticky on both sides. I can see small amounts of sap bleeding onto the surface. Some of the spots of sap have a black dot in the center.

I thought the wood was properly seasoned, but now I'm worried about glueing them up. Is the sap an issue? Can I epoxy the boards together (on edge) without concern or should I wait some more?

Thanks, Dave

[ 01-06-2005, 03:01 PM: Message edited by: dmede ]

Bob Smalser
01-06-2005, 07:28 PM
Sounds like it's not dry enough yet for epoxy to me (<11%).

If I were in a hurry, I'd cook a sample for a moisture content test before proceeding.

dmede
01-06-2005, 07:54 PM
So this is a sign that it is still wet then? Wish I had enough to cut a sample for an oven moisture test, but I only have end wood to spare which is probably not the best indicator right?

Just in case, what is the oven test procedure?

Bob Smalser
01-06-2005, 08:00 PM
A cutoff is better than nothing. Port Orford is denser than Western Red and dries slower. Stock milled late in the summer and stickered in a place with no air flow like your garage might not be ready for epoxy.

Weigh the cutoff, dry it overnight in an oven on its lowest setting and weigh it again....the difference between the wet weight and the final weight after it stops losing any weight times 100 is the % moisture content.

I use the largest hunk that will register on my powder scale.

[ 01-06-2005, 08:33 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

dmede
01-07-2005, 01:15 PM
thanks bob. I'll give it a try. I dont have a small scale though. Can I just get a cheap kitchen scale and use that?