frame saw, redux

[Hughman]

I finally cut up some bandsaw blade and made a frame saw. 15" x 3/8" blade, Oak frame, turned birch handles - pallet scraps. Many suggestions made on this forum were very helpful: The Whitney punch idea was the key to getting the blades I wanted to use. I found a nice one cheap on ebay.

Bob smalsers threads were inspirational as well. This isn't a presentation piece, though! ;)

The commercial blades sold for frame saws are expensive, and there isn't a lot of choice. Since I have a pile of broken bandsaw blades, I thought I'd get some use out of them (I know, I could get them re welded, but I'd need to use this handy round 'tuit I've been saving...)

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dc25b3127cceb5d10dd9d7ed00000026100ActWbluzZOG MA

The tension rod is 3/16 soft steel, I haven't ordered a drill rod for it yet. These blades will want a lot of tension - I set them up with the bar clamp first until they sing, then snug up the wing nuts. I don't expect the redi-rod to last, it's just for fit. The handles are slotted and drilled, with a box nail through the holes - I will have to bush the holes, but so far, there is no sign of failure.

This thing is head and shoulders over a typical coping saw.

If anyone is interested, I'll post construction details.

http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=54466&highlight=frame+saw

http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=74874

[Jim Ledger]

How abot a nice old bronze rigging turnbuckle, with some bronze rod, threaded at the ends, and riveted on the outside.

I'd like to see more pictures, if you don't mind.

[Bill R]

Could you please post come construction details? One is on my short list for a cabin fever project.

thx

[Bob Smalser]

I don't expect the redi-rod to last...

Why do you think you need something stronger or more powerful?

Stick and string are sufficiently powerful, they are just slow and awkward. Home Depot drill rod threaded at the ends and left untempered, combined with a wing nut and washer are sufficiently powerful to break your blade.

Regardless of what you use, untension the saw after use so nothing bends or stretches under stress between use.

[Hughman]

Why do you think you need something stronger or more powerful?

Stick and string are sufficiently powerful, they are just slow and awkward. Home Depot drill rod threaded at the ends and left untempered, combined with a wing nut and washer are sufficiently powerful to break your blade.

Regardless of what you use, untension the saw after use so nothing bends or stretches under stress between use.

Hi, Bob; Thanks for your post.

The redi rod is 3/16", which I chose because I wanted light weight - this is an experiment in destructive testing - and I can redrill the holes for larger rod, which I think I will need to do. It's already distorting the threads. chinese wingnuts are pretty cheesy.

I have a long way to go before I break a 3/8" bandsaw blade, I think the 1-3/8" x 3/4" oak will go first. The more tension, the more control in the cut - up to a point, of course.

[Hughman]

Jim: Classy hardware would look good, for sure. This design is as light weight on the off side as I could reasonably make it.

I will let this tool teach me what it has to teach, and modify accordingly.

So far, I am impressed with it's performance. I think I'll fool around with the tooth angles and rake, just because I have plenty of blade stock. :D

Feels kinda like the first time I picked up a Japanese saw :eek:

Bill,

I'll post photos of it disassembled in a day or two, I forgot my camera today.

[Hughman]

As you can see, this is thud simple.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dc27b3127cceb5c05742c67b00000025100ActWbluzZOG MA

[Thorne]

If it is simple and light weight you want, why not go for the spanish windlass adjuster rather than the more modern threaded bar?

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/images/106-1212-v2-lg.jpg

[Hughman]

David, that's an elegant piece of work.

As I indicated, I wasn't trying to create a presentation piece with this tool, it's a 'user'. Looking for cheap and efficient - ya know - paint, not varnish! :D

(Actually, the sealer is shellac)

[Thorne]

Not mine! Found it on some fancy-ass woodworking tool site -- too rich for my blood.

;0 )

The advantage of the spanish windlass setup is that it makes it easy to remember to tighten and loosen the tension between uses -- no tools required.

[Hughman]

Not mine! Found it on some fancy-ass woodworking tool site -- too rich for my blood.

;0 )

The advantage of the spanish windlass setup is that it makes it easy to remember to tighten and loosen the tension between uses -- no tools required.

Windlass has been used fornearlyever to do the job. I use a bar clamp to get the tension I want - which is quite a bit - and snug the wingnuts up. I don't expect the small threads to achieve the pressure without damage.

It's quicker.