Oarling/Dory Question

[Steve Hornsby]

Hi all,

I've managed to scarf, loft and stitch my Oarling together without any major disasters thus far (first boat). Looking good.

Question. As per the Devlin website, the beam of the Oarling is supposed to be 3ft 8in. Minus 1/2 inch outwales, I then take it to be 3ft 7in to the edges of the ply at the widest point (which I have found).

When attempting to get the correct beam, does one introduce rocker (I hope that is the right term) in the bottom by way of small blocks under the bow and stern? This way, the sides splay out with a nice consistent shape. Or, am I supposed to put in a spreader and let the bow and stern rise naturally. With the spreader only, the sides seem to flatten a bit at the quarters (my term for the section between the mid-point along sheer and bow/stern) - the shape is not as nice. It seems that the spreader has to work hard to pull up the bow and stern.

I would stick with the riser method (with a snug spreader placed for good measure) but now I am not sure how much rocker I should have. The plans do not show a measure for that. I have raised the bow and stern about 3 inchs each and achieved close to the correct beam - a spreader would take up the last 1/2 inch. The shape is nice. Does that sound like too much? Its hard to get a step-back view in my small shop.

Any Oarling/Dory builders wish to comment? Is there a standard for the Gull/Light Dory?

Thanks in advance.

Steve (hopefully rowing soon) Hornsby

[Bob Smalser]

...but now I am not sure how much rocker I should have. The plans do not show a measure for that. That doesn't sound right. Every dory plan I have on hand clearly shows the bottom rocker, and they all have at least some....anywhere from 3/4" to 2 1/2" at each end in dories from 14 to 19 feet. I'd call the designer and make sure we're both on the same sheet.

Generally the bottom is got out and the rocker braced in with shoring or weights before the sides go on....the profile of the garboard edge where it meets the bottom obtained with a spiling batten...allowing a straight garboard or plywood side to determine the rocker doesn't sound right, either.

Leaving the garboard or bottom plank parallel-edged results in a massive amount of rocker like seen on a western drift boat...on most dories that bottom garboard edge is trimmed to have a concave sweep that matches the amount of rocker the builder put into the bottom...not the other way around.

[ 04-17-2005, 11:16 AM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Steve Hornsby]

Thanks Bob,

The plans do show the rocker in the sense that when I look at the drawing of the boat on the plans, a rocker clearly exists. I have looked again but see no numerical mention of the rocker. There is a scale on the plan sheet where 3/4 inch equals 1ft on the plans, but given the size of the drawing and its copy quality, I'm not sure this would get me there.

Now, I may be missing the most obvious detail given my newness to this business, so any and comments are helpful.

A call to the designer is a good suggestion.

Thanks again,

Steve

[Paul Piercey]

My experience with stitch and glue is that a lot of the shape comes with the installation of the rub rails. I would attach the rails at this point to help define the shape to a nice fair curve. You are correct, the curve at the rail and the rocker are working together.

Paul

[plyboat]

No need to worry about the rocker, spread the sheer to the proper width and the rocker will take care of itself. I always dryfit the outside gunnels while building the hull, this will help you with the fair sheer issue. I also like add two more temporary spreaders. I set these by eye to take out any flat spots in the sheer that may show up. Feel free to give me a call if you have anymore questions (360-790-0577 ,eves and weekends)
---Joel---

[htom]

Originally posted by Steve Hornsby:
With the spreader only, the sides seem to flatten a bit at the quarters (my term for the section between the mid-point along sheer and bow/stern) - the shape is not as nice. It seems that the spreader has to work hard to pull up the bow and stern.A pretty curve trumps a ruler in boats. I'd use both, nudging both the ends up with blocks and the middle out with the spreader, to get the best looking 3'7" measurement, and then locking that with the gunwales.

edit -- bolding in a qb doesn't work.

[ 04-17-2005, 03:16 PM: Message edited by: htom ]

[Steve Hornsby]

Thanks all, most appreciated.

Steve