Bandsaw speed?

[dmede]

I have the Grizzly 14” Ultimate Bandsaw with extension kit. It has two blade speeds, 3200 FPM & 1500 FPM. I am using a ½” Timber Wolf blade to re-saw some 2x6 DF for frames.

What is the best speed to use for this?

dave

[pcford]

I have the Grizzly 14” Ultimate Bandsaw with extension kit. It has two blade speeds, 3200 FPM & 1500 FPM. I am using a ½” Timber Wolf blade to re-saw some 2x6 DF for frames.

What is the best speed to use for this?

dave

I do know that resaw machines have a much higher speed than the normal bandsaw. Sound kinda frightening when they start up.

[Battenkiller]

Use the higher speed. Most stock 14" single-speed saws cut at about 3000 sfpm, ideal for resawing with the Timberwolf blades. For a 6" cut in DF use their 3 tpi PC (use their 3 tpi AS if the wood is wet). Suffolk Machinery (Timberwolf) makes bandmill blades for resawing that cut best at over 5000 sfpm, so I wouldn't worry about going as fast as your saw will let you.

[Ed Armstrong]

I have done some resawing with my Grizzly 555 (the Ultimate 14), and a 1/2" blade (or perhaps it was 5/8"), and it seemed to work fine on the stock speed (which I think is the faster, but I'm not sure). The planks needed a run through the planer once they came off, but I was happy with the result. They probably would've been even cleaner if I'd used a proper resaw fence, rather than the stock fence.

Ed

[PeterSibley]

I use around 2500 fpm .

[dmede]

Thanks, I just wanted to see what the conventional wisdom was on the blade speed. I have been using the slower speed to resaw some of my WRC because the higher speed made such an awful screech and burned the wood a little. But I was cutting the wood at an angle, making scarph cuts in 1" x 8" plank so that probably put a little extra tweak on the blade. The DF will be shorter and straight ahead resawing.

[Eric D]

definitely the highest speed you can, only use 3 tpi, do not go higher. On that saw (have the same one) only use 1/2" blade. get the tension set properly and you will be amazed at how well hit cuts. I resawed 10" white oak the other day, nice even push and all is well.

As far as planning, almost all saws need you to plan the stock before wacking the next slab off, kinda standard procedure, even for several really high end saws.

Use a new blade, round the back edges, oh, and if you can, a proper resaw fence helps.

[Battenkiller]

I have been using the slower speed to resaw some of my WRC because the higher speed made such an awful screech and burned the wood a little. But I was cutting the wood at an angle, making scarph cuts in 1" x 8" plank so that probably put a little extra tweak on the blade.

Somethings is wrong there. If you can't make a clean cut in 8" WRC what's the point in having a 12" capacity? I have cut uniform 5/32" thick slices for guitar backs in 10" thick cocobolo with the Timberwolf blades on a similar saw. I have done the same in cherry and maple, two woods notorious for being easy to burn. The fact that you were cutting scarfs (8-12:1) should not make a difference (I'll assume you are using some sort of sled for that operation).

How old was the blade? Use a fresh blade for deep cuts then use it for general cutting in thin stock once it fails to perform well for resawing.

Sounds like you might have lost some of the set in the teeth, particularly if it was hot enough to burn the wood. What kind of guides are you using? High end consumer bandsaw blades are very sensitive to heat buildup because they have induction hardened teeth and they can go south in a hurry if you are rough with them. I use Cool Blocks because of that, and also because I don't have to worry if I set the thrust bearing too far back (an instant blade killer with steel or roller bearings).

How fast was the feed? People have a tendency to push harder than necessary. You should feed the wood in at the rate the saw will eat it up.

What tooth style are you using? You need to carry all that sawdust from the top of the cut all the way down without it packing the gullets full. Ironically, softwoods can be harder to resaw because of this. 3 tpi, even 2 tpi for a cut that deep in softwood. You might try experimenting with a 3/4" 2/3 VPC (I have one but have not tried it yet on my 14" Delta saw) from Suffolk Machinery (makers of the Timberwolf blades) for those deep cuts in softwood. See their blade recommendations below:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/silicon_steel_slection.asp

Lastly, are you using a lubricant? If you spray Pam cooking spray on the blade every other cut or so you will see a remarkable increase in your saw's performance and an increase in blade life as well. The decrease in sound is a sign that the saw is cutting with less friction.

There is a lot of useful info on the Suffolk site and they are extremely friendly to talk to on the phone. If you are having problems with a certain type of cut, they will send you the right blade for the job (usually at no charge) since they really want your return business. Plus, if have been buying the blades from Woodcraft Supply, they will be about half that price if you order direct.http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/images/icons/icon12.gif

[Ken Hutchins]

I am of the opinion that slower is better.
All saws are supposed to make chips NOT dust. You can't possibly push the stock thru fast enough to make chips. Dust just makes dull blades.
Less noise, longer blade life, more accuracy.
If you want speed you will pay the price.:eek:
I use bi-metal, variable pitch, metal cutting blades at 1200 fpm.
I get more accurate cuts, and the blades last so long that they break because of fatigue, not because they get dull.
Hi speeds are because they want to sell more blades, PT Barnum said it best "there is a sucker born every minute".:rolleyes:
I changed to pulleys on my Ridgid saw to slow it down.
If you want to resaw adjust the saw properly, and you will NOT any special resaw gismo fence.:rolleyes:

[PeterSibley]

I use around 2500 fpm .

Hmmm .I just checked ...I was wrong it works out at 1634 fpm .I have run it faster but as Ken said regarding chip size , there is not much point in just making finer dust .
The problem with fine dust is that it escapes from the tooth gullet into the cut and heats the blade .That in turn causes inaccuracy .

The other reason I like to run things slower is simple , sound and vibration . I just like things gentler and the slower blade speed is easier on my nerves .:D