Boat flipped, need to pick a trailer now!

[dmede]

I flipped the Maud & Emeline last week. Looks like a boat finally! I have to clean out the inside, fill gaps, install frames and knees, sand and paint before I’m finally done. But I’m getting close enough to start thinking about trailers.

My wife and I are looking to buy a house so money is tight which means I have a small budget for trailer and motor. I have already found the motor I want, the Tohatsu 6hp. It’s relatively cheap for it’s power and is the most HP I can get in the weight limit I have for the outboard (about 60lbs).

Now for the trailer, I have no idea what to get. The boat is flat bottomed but with more rocker and a narrower aft than most flat bottom boat of this size. She’s 14’ long, 4’ 6” wide near the middle and about 3’ wide at the transom. I’ll be taking this boat to the Delta and to lakes in the Sierras so I need a trailer I can trust on repeated freeway trips. I’d like to get one of the small EZ Loader galvanized trailers but I’m not sure which configuration is best for this type of boat. I know it should be a simple bunk trailer, but do I want the type with two long flat bunks or two short bunks that hinge with a keel roller (or keel bunk) up front.

http://www.ezloader.com/trailers.asp?TextFile=trl_Bunk_Trailers.txt


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2202/2201969122_bc8f01514e.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2121/2201177807_3a4c0112c0.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2309/2201968660_58324ee183.jpg

[dmede]

http://www.ezloader.com/images/EZT_14_800.GIF

http://www.ezloader.com/images/EZ_12-14_1000.GIF

http://www.ezloader.com/images/EZW_1214_1200.jpg

[Bob Smalser]

King Trailers in Marysville makes nice double-dipped ones locally, cost around 400 bucks, and are full adjustable to your boat. Soldered wiring, too. You may have a manufacturer like King locally.

Often used trailers come complete with a boat you have to dispose of, and beware of any old trailer used in salt water. ;)

http://www.kingtrailers.com/

[dmede]

I'm open to any suggestions on alternate brands or best places to look for used or cheap custom made etc.

I check CL often but as pointed out there are usually boats attached to the cheap trailers in the sizes Im looking for.

[Wild Wassa]

I'd like to make one suggestion. I man handle a lot of trailers. There is only one type of wheel to have on the front of a boat trailer for a small boat ... and it isn't one of the little solid rubber ones. The small solid rubber wheels are absolute stone age technology.

Warren.

[JimD]

Nide woodwork on that boat.

[willmarsh3]

She looks great!

Several years ago as I was building my Elver I went to the boat show here in town and left notes with several vendors to keep an eye out for trailers. They said they sometimes get an old beat up fiberglass boat brought in on its trailer as a trade. The dealer strips the boat and sells the trailer. Sure enough a few months later I got a phone call. I went and looked at an older but decent galvanized trailer and made a deal.

[michigangeorge]

Try Harbor Freight or one of the other low buck catalogs. They sell small frames ( complete with suspension, wheels, lights etc ) meant for utility trailers. The tongue will be a bit short (have it lengthened at a local welding shop) but the suspension will be soft enough for your boat. That is the problem with most stock trailers - I have removed all but one leaf of the multi- leaf springs and still they ride too hard for small wooden craft.
These little kit trailers come boxed up for UPS shipment and you put them together. Under $400.00 if I remember correctly.

[Tom Hunter]

I started with a trailer like the one you pictured.

Put a peice of plywood on a frame where the bunks were.

Took a 2x6 and cut noches to mate with the oarlocks. Put the lights up on the 2x6 so they cannot get wet when I launch the boat.

Put the 2x6 across the top of the boat and tie it down. Now your boat can't bounce off the trailer, your lights won't short and your boat has additional support.

I find new trailers to be so cheap that buying used does not make a lot of sense. Obviously if you get a deal that rule does not apply.

[almeyer]

I bought my trailer at the local sporting goods store. It was designed for a jonboat, so I had to modify it somewhat to fit my round-bottomed boat, and swapped out the 8-inch tires for 12-inch, but it was just as cheap as ordering a kit trailer. Just a thought.
Fine looking job on the boat, congradulations on the turnover.
Al

[dmede]

Try Harbor Freight or one of the other low buck catalogs. They sell small frames ( complete with suspension, wheels, lights etc ) meant for utility trailers. The tongue will be a bit short (have it lengthened at a local welding shop) but the suspension will be soft enough for your boat. That is the problem with most stock trailers - I have removed all but one leaf of the multi- leaf springs and still they ride too hard for small wooden craft.
These little kit trailers come boxed up for UPS shipment and you put them together. Under $400.00 if I remember correctly.

I have gone back and forth on the HF trailer idea and finally decided that it wasn't worth the hassle. They usually come with 8" wheels, too small for frequent freeway trips to the Sierras, so would need to upgrade to 12". I have been told that you should just dump the included bearings and put new ones in right away. They are painted and not galvanized (I'll be using in salt water). AND I'd have to add tongue fab work and bunks if I got the utility trailer over the boat trailer. In the end the savings of about $200 - $300 over a similar EZoader isn't worth the hassle since I'd still own a crappy trailer. I should be able to find a decent used trailer for a similar price that only needs minimal attention to the bearings etc. Hopefully... still looking though.

[MiddleAgesMan]

Harbor Freight item:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90154

They have smaller ones as well but this one looks like it might work for our boats (mine is a Goat Island Skiff), maybe even without a tongue extension. With the 1200lb capacity (and 3 leaf springs) it might be stiff but as someone said one or two leaves can be removed.

I am close to finishing my skiff so this thread has been very helpful. I could not find a boat trailer suitable for a flat bottomed boat with rocker.

[sv Lorelei]

I bought an HF trailer and boy was I sorry. It took several weeks for all three boxes to get here and when the last one finally arrived it didn't have all the parts in it. Back and forth with HF customer service....took about two months to get the trailer completed only to find they hadn't sent the Cert. of Origin I needed to register....another week to ten days. No. I'd go and buy one locally and consider it well worth the extra money in aggravation.

YMMV

[dmede]

I'm surprised by how hard it is to track down a place that sells boat trailers... in the Bay Area!

Assuming I buy a new ez loader, which of the three types pictured above is best suited to my type of boat?

[StevenBauer]

First, the boat looks great! You must be so psyched.
Second, think about changing the bunks from 'fore and af't to 'side to side'. My 14' John Gardner skiff has similar dimentions to yours. The bunks going sideways is perfect for flat bottom boats with rocker. Mine also sits on some rollers forward, very well supported. I'll check to see if I have any pictures.


Steven

[Tom Mac]

Sometimes you get a trailer for a 6 pack. If the frame is good, no rust or bends. But the wheel are not good, you can put new hubs, springs, and if needed new axle. It can be custom made. I made 2 trailers that way. Here the catlog www. champion trailers@.com

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Good Job:)

[Thorne]

(goes to the fridge and pulls out a cold lager...)

OK -- what a wide spread of advice!

http://www.luckhardt.com/hfutiltrlr.gif

First, I'll second the opinion that the Harbor Freight trailer isn't worth the time. I've gone that route, and had to purchase a full second trailer just to replace the bearings and scored axle after ONE SEASON.

Admittedly I put a lot of miles on my trailer, but the cheap Chinese steel combined with other cheap parts really make the HF trailers less than desirable for a good boat trailer that will handle lots of mileage -- that's why they are so cheap, right?

Having assembled two of these beasts, the steel really is crap. The fenders can't be stood on without cracking the steel, and I had one fall off on Hwy 101 -- not my idea of a good time! I replaced the fenders with diamond plate from the scrap metal place in San Leandro where I also bought the tongue / backbone replacement square tubing. Did a lot of custom welding when I should have just bought bunk and fender supports -- DOH!
http://www.luckhardt.com/trailermod13.jpg

http://www.luckhardt.com/trailermod1.jpg


And with most sprung for 1300lbs or more, they are way too stiff. Remove a leafspring or two? Been there, done that, now the trailer bangs when towed as the missing leaves provided a 1/2" gap support that I can't get rubber to stay glued or bolted into. And it is still way too stiff, leaps into the air when hitting bumps at high speeds.

http://www.luckhardt.com/springs1.jpg

At TSCA events around here we see three types of trailers.

1. Many HF trailers rigged in different ways -- but since most boats being towed are ply pulling boats, the owners often don't put the trailer in the water, or at least don't submerge the hubs. Both my HF utility trailers could not take ANY size of Bearing Buddies or competitors products -- wierd size hubs.

2. Various galvanized trailers, most overbuilt and over-stiff for the light boats they are hauling, but at least the bearings, axles, grease fittings, and hubs are good quality -- and they can take Bearing Buddies. An outfit in Santa Rosa will build small trailers and offers sealed oil bearings. Some smaller boats can fit on PWC trailers but the tongue often needs extending.

3. Trailex aluminum trailers. The creme de la creme, so light they can be used as trollys in a pinch, and can be easily picked up and pointed the correct direction when backing up to the ramp. My choice if I had the $900 or whatever.

Considering the work you've put into the boat, and the worry you might have about a used trailer burning up the bearings and dumping said boat all over the highway -- I'd say go for a new Trailex model.
http://www.luckhardt.com/Trailex-SUT500S-R.jpg

No matter what trailer you get, you will need to make modifications, and these cost $$.

Registration and permanent license plate should be under $100. Good adjustible galvanized bunk supports, nylon rollers and support brackets will cost another $100 or so...shop around. You can make your own bunks from 2x4's and use old commercial carpet from a carpet store dumpster.

You also need a swing-away rolling jack for the front (I find the plastic wheels just fine on boats under 1000lbs), and of course a winch on a stand with a bow chock to pull the boat forward onto. Without a good bow chock, the boat can start to come forward off the trailer when trailering downhill on bumpy roads...don't ask me how I know this.

With a flat bottom and rocker, you will only have part of the boat on the bottom support at any one time, so that part of the trailer support can be relatively short. You will want fore and aft bunks, and possibly uprights off to the sides (as shown below) to center the boat on the trailer if you beach launch, or try to pull it out on your own on windy days ( the boat drifts off the trailer before you can splash to the truck and get it going).
http://www.luckhardt.com/mendo1.jpg

[Yeadon]

I'd keep an eye on Craigslist.

Also, someone above commented about the little wheel that people use on the tongue of their trailers ... I'd love to find a setup where I could use an inflatable rubber tire off a wheelbarrow, or something like that. My driveway is 5/8th minus gravel, and rolling a little plastic wheel through that is a lost cause.

I have a few good photos of a customized trailer in this flickr photoalbum (http://www.flickr.com/gp/44522830@N00/0U4c71).

[Thorne]

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/boa/543449772.html

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/boa/543025782.html

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/boa/541285061.html

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/boa/539991749.html

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/538838699.html

Good hunting!

;0 )

[rdrishel]

Well, There is no easy way out of this dilemna. If you buy used within a hundred miles of saltwater it will need to be rehabbed. The boats always last longer than the trailers. If your time is worth more than a nickel an hour you will be going backwards. If there is such a thing as a new boat trailer place any where close by take a big sack of money and go get them to build what you need. There is great joy in building boats and you have done beautiful work. Repairing worn out trailers and old outboards just aint the same.
I have plowed this row several times and the amount of money required never varies it just depends on whether you want to spend it all at once or not.
Good luck with buying the house. You will need the boat for sanity mainteneance.
Rod

[Brian Palmer]

I had a 15 foot sharpie and bought a new trailer that had long bunk boards supported at the ends and a couple of keel rollers. I altererd the height of the front and rear supports on the bunks so the hull contacted the bunks in the middle of their span. This allowed them to flex a little to match the hull's shape, and avoided a "hard spot" between the bunk and the hull.

Go for a decent galvanized boat trailer. You'll never be sorry you did.

--Brian

[Thorne]

Getting the bunk boards in the right shape and place can be tricky. I had mine pre-bent to the hull and then bolted them in place. But either the 2x4's straightened out or the boat put pressure on them in the wrong places, and now they support the widest part of the hull and not the rest -- removing paint when sandy on long trips.

One trick I've seen on other small boat trailers is to use double-bunks on either side, allowing the shorter bunks to fit the front curve of the hull much better. But the aft bunks have to be on some sort of pivot or swivel setup, or you can't pull the boat on the trailer.

I like the quote above - "...the amount of money required never varies it just depends on whether you want to spend it all at once or not." How true!

Having done a lot of trailering all over the Left Coast and Sierras, the primary parts of the trailer are the running gear == hubs, axles, tires. If all these are kept in good shape, your boat will travel much safer. If you are unsure of your bearing-adjusting skills, find a good trailer shop (or auto mechanic with trailer experience) and have them replace the bearings and waterproof grease in any used trailer you buy.

Next in importance comes the attachment hardware == towball, hitch, locks, safety chains, etc. This stuff fails and your boat is firewood.

After that comes the lights. I strongly recommend two sets of lights -- one on the trailer frame, another separate light bar for the boat. Use the light bar on the transom when towing around the Bay Area, which is full of clueless drivers who just love to come within inches of your boat before passing at night. Light bars put the lights fully aft and up high where they are much more visible.

Boat support is also important, but once you get the bunks, rollers, winch, and tiedowns all set up right, it stays good for a long time. Watch the carpet on the bunks for wear, rinse it out when you can.

Next would be the suspension, but in most cases it doesn't really fail, or may just need some waterproof grease and a few smacks with a hammer to loosen up the rusty leafsprings.

Last is the frame. Most wooden boats are really light, and most trailers can handle a lot of rust before actually breaking. One of the best small-boat trailers around is the old Holsclaw model, which had both coil springs and shocks. But by now many have rusted so badly that the frame is seriously damaged = I gave one away last year for this very reason (broke my cheapskate heart, let me tell you).

Here's one rigged for motorcycle use, but you can see the coil springs on the main axle.
http://dirtrider.net/forums3/attachment.php?attachmentid=13279&stc=1

[StevenBauer]

Getting the bunk boards in the right shape and place can be tricky.


I think this is silly. It's a flat bottomed boat! The right shape for the bunks is straight. Just mount the bunks 'side to side'. This really is a no-brainer.


Steven

[Thorne]

Don't know about silly, Steven.

I've owned 9 or 10 boat trailers and seen many more at various boatramps and rowing events == never seen one with side-to-side bunks. Can you show any photos of any commercial or home-made trailer with this interesting configuration?

For dories and skiffs, you can just put a piece of ply or some planks on the trailer frame to support the flat bottom = the rocker will determine where this flat support goes. On my current trailer it is here, covered with carpet and with front support added for pulling the beast onto the trailer.
http://www.luckhardt.com/trailermod5.jpg

But unless you only trailer for short trips on smooth sideroads, you need something to keep the boat centered on the trailer during bumps and bounces - hence the use of side-bunks or rollers on nearly all wooden-boat trailers.

Side bunks also put the boat in the correct spot when you pull it out of the water. Not everyone is sailing ply boats, and solid wood boats can be a little heavy to comfortably lift and reposition on the trailer.

And finally, side bunks hold the boat in position without having to use straps that can wear or mark varnish and paint. Yes, you can get a skiff or dory on a utility trailer -- but keeping it there involves more than just bottom support. Aluminum and glass boats often have attachment points that allow strapping to the trailer, but most wooden boats are designed to row and sail first, and the attachment points can be hard to find.

[StevenBauer]

I know that 'side to side' bunks wouldn't work with the narrow flat bottom of a dory. But with this skiff it would be a treat. I looked all over for a picture of my trailer and only found this old no-so-good one:

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/bauerdad/100_3431.jpg

I got the bunk idea right here on the Forum back in 2000, I can't remember who suggested it. It's really easy to get the boat on and off and worked fine when I brought the boat down to Mystic in 2001. I got the trailer for $100 from my neighbor's dad.

Here is the skiff and the faering stashed away on the trailer at my friend's house for the winter:

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/bauerdad/fallboats.jpg



The rear bunk has a notch in it for the skeg, that helps to keep the boat from sliding side to side.


Steven

[Thorne]

I also looked through my photos, but only saw one that might have been side-to-side bunks on a HF trailer for a dory in Mendocino.

And of course I'm being picky when I say that wooden boats should have side-bunks along with bottom bunks or support -- this is a personal opinion from experience trailering on steep washboarded mountain roads.

There are lots of flat-bottomed boats on trailers without side-bunks, especially dories, skiffs and sharpies. But I doubt that these folks do much trailering on mountain roads.

Here's my theory -- boats are designed to take pressure from outside-in, not the reverse which happens when the hull is pulled down or out by straps. So it is better for a wooden boat to sit lightly strapped to side-bunks and bottom support than to sit on just bottom support and be strapped down really hard to keep it from rotating on the trailer.

An analogy would be an egg. Imagine you need to carry an raw egg in the shell on a cutting board. You could put an egg-carton on the cutting board and carry the egg that way, even put a light piece of cellophane tape to hold it in the carton. Or you could use duct-tape and firmly tape it to the board.

Which method would be less likely to crack or stress the eggshell?

That's my theory!

;0 )

[T. Traddles]

I think Atkin drew pretty skiffs. Very nice, dmede!

Mr. Bauer, you wouldn't happen to have some more pics of your skiff? Could you share? Thanks

[pipefitter]

Here in FL., there is many boat dealerships and one would be surprised how many galvanized trailers end up at equipment auctions because more than half of the people that buy new boats change out the galv trailer for the aluminum I-beam trailers before they take possession of the boat. I got my 'like new' trailer at auction, with wheel stand, winch and strap/rollers for $200. There was 2 more very similar so I bought those too and resold them and ended up getting my trailer plus 150.00 after it was all said and done.

http://home.earthlink.net/~tigmaster41/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/splash9.jpg