View Full Version : table saws, routers and buzzy stuff

Phillip Allen
01-16-2008, 07:17 AM
Among the things I'm gonna "halve" to do with my house is make new stuff like windows, door frames and such. I have double hung windows with 24" square panes. I will be expanding the casings on the outside walls by 1.5" to accommodate insulation. I will (possible) need to come up with trim that matches some that may not be made any more and also ripping furring for the outside walls out of salvaged lumber. I'm thinking of devising a way to make those windows double paned to further insulate.

I have no table saw and want to possibly get one but don't know much about them...I want good quality but don't need to get the most expensive thing...desperately need to stretch the $.

I have a plunging router that I've had for years and years but never used...thinking of routing the old windows to receive a second pane...?

I'm a bricklayer and can figure most things out...but I thought to pitch this out for any thoughts you guys might have on the subject or other general ideas.

Bruce Taylor
01-16-2008, 07:51 AM
A portable jobsite saw might hit the spot, for you. Smalser speaks highly of his Ridgid.

See: http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=71932

Factor in the cost of a decent blade..and ear protection (universal motor).

01-16-2008, 09:42 AM
A good glass company can make you double panes to fit right into your existing sashes. They might not be "Super-duper" insulated, but they will be better than single pane, or two pieces of glass with an inferior seal. I made "double panes" for the front door I made here. Works fine, or rather.....Worked fine until the door bound up last spring and one of the panes cracked. Still no fogging, but it's only a matter of time.
I like the ridgid rolly saw, and I like the DeWalt job saw.... One thing to do is put the blade that comes with the saw off to one side to use with lumber that probably has nails in it, and get a good 40+ tooth combo blade from the likes of Forrest,CMT, Freud, or Amana, for working with clean stock.

01-16-2008, 12:48 PM
Another vote for the Rigid saw (available at Home Depot only, so far as I know).

Phillip Allen
01-16-2008, 12:50 PM
thanks folks...I'm gonna check out these things...

Paul Pless
01-16-2008, 12:58 PM
I've got a friend that runs trim, and sets windows and doors. He uses one of these:


I've used it a few times and came away pretty impressed. I think they run about $450.00 or so.

Phillip Allen
01-16-2008, 12:59 PM
shaking my head...(I'll bet Paul didn't see that coming)

Bruce Hooke
01-16-2008, 01:05 PM
I would keep in mind that if you put any value on your time it would almost certainly make more sense to buy things like windows and door frames and so on. If it is important to match an existing look, that is of course, a justifiable reason for doing things the hard way, as is simply wanting to do so and not caring about the time. However, unless it is very clear that one of those two reasons apply, I'd suggest that you at least owe it to yourself to work out what it would cost to buy pre-made windows and pre-hung doors, and work out how long it would take you to make them from scratch, before you go down the road of making this stuff yourself.

01-16-2008, 01:13 PM
I have recently replaced a window using this:


It worked quite well.


John of Phoenix
01-16-2008, 01:15 PM
A little more friendly server...

http://www.toolbarn.com/images/bosch/4100dg-09.big.jpg http://www.toolbarn.com/images/bosch/4100dg-09.big.1.jpg

Nice machine. About $600 with the stand. $680 w/ a digital fence.



Check out this demo video. Impressive. :cool:

01-16-2008, 06:11 PM

Depending on the track or jamb liners your current windows have, Kaa's suggestion is the most feasible, depending on your local cost's.

Converting old ssb sash to Insul glazing is a fair amount of work as the sash should rightfully be disassembled to machine for the thicker glass, then reassembled, glazed.

If your current jamb liners (tracks) have no insulation behind them, your net gain in efficiency will be pretty negligible. Your would be gaining only 2.5-3.0 R factor with the new glass, and losing that much or more AROUND the sash.

If the double hung replacement window kits are fairly pricey in your area, you may be better off going to your favorite box store and just getting new units ? Most of them come with 11/16" glass or thicker, and you would also get a complete package with new everything.


Memphis Mike
01-16-2008, 06:15 PM
Be careful. You might cut your pecker off.

Bruce Taylor
01-16-2008, 06:41 PM
Be careful. You might cut your pecker off.

Especially if you opt for the Ridgid.

01-16-2008, 06:55 PM
Serendippity, I did a landscape job for an acquaintance and am being offered the power tool of my choice as part-payment. I need a router, so what brand do the community recommend?. We can get all but the in-house brands here. BTW, that collapsible portable table saw is very cute!

John of Phoenix
01-16-2008, 07:18 PM
Porter Cable routers can't be beat in my book. Plunge and fixed combo is a great kit.

Porter-Cable 895PK 2-1/4 HP Router, about US$250. (http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Porter-Cable-895PK-2-1-4-HP-Router-PB+FB+ADJ/76943/Cat/175)

David G
01-16-2008, 07:21 PM
Don't have a lot of personal experience with the type. I own a Very Old off-brand just in case I ever need one, but I'm pretty exclusively wedded to working in the shop, rather than on site. The old standard, tried & true jobsite saw around this area is the Makita. I see a few Rigid saws lately, which folks seems tentatively satisfied with. The one that seems to be rapidly developing an enthusiastic following is the Bosch that Mr. Teetsel pointed out.

I also own & love the Bosch 2hp plunge router. I can recommend it.

"Good people are good because they've come to wisdom through failure" -- William Saroyan

Bruce Hooke
01-16-2008, 07:22 PM
Serendippity, I did a landscape job for an acquaintance and am being offered the power tool of my choice as part-payment. I need a router, so what brand do the community recommend?. We can get all but the in-house brands here. BTW, that collapsible portable table saw is very cute!

You really need to think a bit about how you plan to use the router. Do you need a big beefy router for spinning big bits and possibly using in a router table, or do you need a plunge router, or do you need something lighter, which might mean the plunge feature is less critical?

01-16-2008, 07:27 PM
Hadn't thought about that Bruce, haven't owned one before but used hand tools when needed. thanks. I'll look up Porter-Cable and see if there'a supplier here.

John of Phoenix
01-16-2008, 07:39 PM
Since this is your first router, may I suggest this book before you buy one? It has some suggestions along the lines that Bruce mentioned AND will give you ideas on things to do with a router you never thought possible. Jigs, JIGS and MORE jigs.

16 five star ratings. :cool:

You'll see lots of PC equipment in the book.

01-16-2008, 07:40 PM
Thanks again

Bruce Taylor
01-16-2008, 07:50 PM
As long as they're buying, get a big-ass plunge router, 3 HP or so. If. later on, you decide you want a laminate trimmer or a 1 1/2 HP medium-duty router it'll be significantly cheaper.

01-16-2008, 09:12 PM
I'm going to recomend two different table saws.

One is a Grizzly. More bang for the buck than the others, but with the Grizzly it is more of a stationary tool rather than a portable, weight is the issue.

If you want portability in a table saw, DeWalt has a fine portable saw.

Don't have any good suggestions on routers, that is one of the next things I need to upgrade.

I would suggest looking at repleacement windows rather than trying to build my own. Pella, WeatherShield or Marvin will get you a real good window.


Lew Barrett
01-17-2008, 02:46 AM
I've been very happy with my Ridgid portable which has put up with horrible neglect and abuse, but satisfies all who use it. I understand the new Bosch is nice too, but I got the Ridgid for portable work and have been happy enough with it to keep it for job site use even though I now have a cabinet saw at home. A portable saw like the Ridgid can still do a lot of work, and is handy away from the house.
Routers are motors. I don't get too excited about mine, but I have one of those PCs John is recommending (motor only, table mounted) and a Makita plunge kit and they have both been fine. I say I'm not excited by them, but they're very useful, obviously. You'll enjoy having some woodworking tools. It's a great thing, well worth investing in. You'll think up a lot of use for them.