Wood species - centerboard trunk

[vtsnipe]

I am in the process of rebuilding the centerboard trunk on a small wooden sailboat (an old Snipe). The current trunk (rotted, but lasted approximately 50 years) appears to be oak on the end pieces, and possibly oak on the side pieces (but I cannot be sure). The main problem with the trunk was rotting of the end pieces, which extend through the hole in the hull, and are cut and faired to the hull. The side pieces do not extend through. The end pieces were also vertically oriented, so ultimately end grain oak was exposed on the bottom (except for the boat paint) and I am sure it wicked up some water over the years, speeding up the process.

What wood should I use to rebuild? White oak, Douglas Fir, Southern Yellow pine????

Also, should I treat those areas of end grain with something ... penetrating epoxy, shellac, ??

Any thoughts appreciated, as I don't want to be rebuilding this trunk every 50 years or so (I am 52 now, and I imagine it will be tougher for me to do the next couple times). Thanks,
Chris

[Jim Ledger]

White oak for the ends and cypress for the sides is a good combination.

[rooster]

I agree with Jim,oak for the end pieces. If you need a hand when you are 102 years old, I would be more than happy to help out. :] Wait,sorry I would be 108. Good luck,just do it , go sailing and enjoy.
sorry if I seem a bit plucky for a newbe.

[Thorne]

White oak, red lead on the inside panels and ends, should last another 50.

http://www.luckhardt.com/cb-case2.jpg
http://www.luckhardt.com/cb-case5.jpg

[vtsnipe]

quote: "White oak, red lead on the inside panels and ends, should last another 50."

... I thought you could not buy red lead anymore? Can you recommend a source?

Thanks,
Chris

[Jon Agne]

Just rebuilt mine in a 25' Crosby catboat last winter. The trunk is approximately 7.5' long and 3.5' high. It was originally fabricated out of white oak for the fore and aft posts (can't think of the proper boat word) and red oak for the planks 1.5" x 8". These were splined and caulked from the outside.

It was always a gusher at launching no matter how much I pre-soaked it, and it remained a seeper thoughout the season. I was spurred into action while cruising when awakened at 2am by the sound of water.....inside the cabin.....not outside. A 3" section of caulking next to the forward post had worked it's way loose and a nice, steady stream of sea water was arcing onto the cabin sole! A little cotton and 4200 did the trick, but I decided I didn't need to worry about the trunk any more.

I had Alex Hadden of Georgetown, Maine do the work and we used replaced the forward post in white oak (aft was fine), and used 1.5" white cedar for the planks splined, bolted, drifted and gooped (4200 I think). NO LEAKS this year!!!

There's still water in the bilge, but at least it's not from my c/b trunk.

Interestingly, when we disassembled the old trunk, we found that the old side planks had no drifts or fastenings whatsoever except to the fore and aft posts.

[paladin]

Osage Orange (Bois d'Arc) am best.......75 years after granddad planting the fenceposts in the ground and sitting the small barn on sandstones it's still solid as the rocks it sits on......

[Thorne]

Kirby's in New Bedford has red lead -

http://www.kirbypaint.com/images/menu_newlogo.gif

[vtsnipe]

I agree with Jim,oak for the end pieces. If you need a hand when you are 102 years old, I would be more than happy to help out. :] Wait,sorry I would be 108. Good luck,just do it , go sailing and enjoy.
sorry if I seem a bit plucky for a newbe.

Hey - you're on Rooster! I will give you a call when I do it again! What could be a better project for a couple real old geezers!

Another question ... the centerboard trunk was attached with (many) screws. There is no glue or sealant at all along the sides of the trunk where it meets the where it meets the hull (garboard? or is that a keel batten?). I have seen plans for new wooden boats that recommend either a sealant or bedding in epoxy. Any thoughts along this line? The boat is not moored. Stored on a trailer until used, so it is not swelling to watertightness. I was thinking screws, but with some sort of long lasting sealant. Thoughts?

[Thorne]

I used Vulkem116 as recommended on this Forum as a sealant/bedding compound for the joints in my CB case -- worked fine. Stays flexi over time, so seems to be able to handle movement in the hull or stress from grounding with the CB down. Real attachment was with screws dipped in red lead, so the Vulkem116 just sealed/bedded.

[Bob Smalser]

Traditional Centerboard and Case – Part I, The Board (http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=8948)

Traditional Centerboard and Case – Part II, The Case (http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=4871)

Traditional Centerboard and Case – Part III, Installation with a False Bottom (http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=4743)

[vtsnipe]

Lots of awesome info., photos. Thanks to all of you, I guess I need to get busy now.
Chris