View Full Version : MarshCat Update
01-07-2008, 09:48 PM
Here are some photos after the second coat of 404/414 primer. One more coat and will be ready for finish coats.
Mahogany transom epoxied and sanded. Ready for varnish.
01-08-2008, 04:19 PM
looks quite nice. I have not been following the build. Do you have other threads with the build detailed ??
01-08-2008, 06:49 PM
Nice job with the primer . I can smell the solvent from here ! Tough stuff though ; I think it's worth it . You can tint the final coat , if you're not finishing white .
01-08-2008, 06:54 PM
Beautiful job. Is that strip planked with a fiberglass skin?
Looks like you've done a remarkable fairing job. Not a wrinkle anywhere.
01-08-2008, 08:11 PM
Yes, the smell of solvent is very bad. I will be painting it with Brightsides white. I was going to use Perfection two part but changed my mind. Dont like the toxic solvents and smell. The boat will be stored in my garage so Brightsides should last well. The hull was covered with 10 oz fiberglass. A lot of time was spent smoothing the hull. It is strip planked so no fairing was needed, just filling minute pinholes in the epoxy. (see previous posts) I will put on a third and final coat of primer tomorrow and then finish coats later in the week or weekend. Then flip it over and start sanding the interior hull. I will use 10 oz glass on the inside also. The inside of the hull doesnt show inperfections like the outside so it wont take as much work.
I was very fortunate to talk to a Marsh Cat owner that lives near me. I am going to see his boat this weekend and get some ideas on hardware and finishing out the boat. A priceless opportunity!!!!!!!!
01-09-2008, 08:21 AM
You're so well set up for an LPU (two Part) finish it seems a shame to go with Brightsides now . I found the LPU's I've used way less smelly than that primer . They're toxic ,but if you roll and tip instead of spraying , and provide good ventilation , I think it's a reasonable choice . There's a WB article on the subject if your interested .
01-09-2008, 08:42 AM
Bill, Have you ever used Perfection? Maybe I will use it on the outside and Brightsides on the inside. I think I read Perfection is actually easier to get a good finish with than Brightsides. Do you know if that is true? Brightsides is so much easier to touch up.
01-09-2008, 08:59 AM
Amazing finish job so far.
I'm no expert, but recently went through a lot of these same debates on which paint to use. I settled on Epifanes two-part poly for the bottom of my Rascal (rolled and tipped - two coats).
I can't post a picture right now but I think Speedboy used the same paint on his Rascal. You can find his pictures in this Forum.
Best of luck,
editted to add: OK, here is a recent photo. Also, I think you could touch up the two-part poly with the Epiphanes one-part.
01-09-2008, 10:42 AM
I've used the Perfection product before it was called Perfection ; don't know how much it's changed . Most recently I used Sterlings LPU on my 24 footer . I used the flattening agent , and have found I can touch up without problems with the resulting semigloss paint . Below the waterline I used bottom paint ; Interlux's Micron 66; which is made for dry stored boats ( not for use in fresh water). I don't know if I found the LPU easier to apply than brightsides . The mixing of different parts ,plus flattener ,is extra fuss of course . It's no harder than applying the primer correctly .
01-09-2008, 09:12 PM
Third and final coat of 404/414 primer. A few small blemishes but I am quite happy with the results so far. Maybe first finish coat tomorrow or Friday depending on how long it take to sand really smooth.
01-10-2008, 09:07 PM
First coat of Brightside. I think I will put on one more coat before turning and the third and final coat when boat is done.
01-11-2008, 12:26 AM
Dear Mr Macdonald, That is a beautiful looking boat. May I ask how long it has taken you to build her.
I am contemplating a similar project myself and all/any info or pictures would be appreciated.
Is there a sight to view the whole build so far?
Anyway, just beautiful
01-11-2008, 10:05 AM
Here is a link to more photos. http://www.flickr.com/photos/kmacdonald1234/sets/72157594575397172/
It really doesnt take that long to build the hull. The problem is with working with epoxy, only so much can be done before you have to stop and let it cure. I would put on 3 strips on each side every evening. That would take about 2 or 3 hours. I think it was about 120 strips total. More time was spent sanding than building. A larger RO sander could reduce time significantly I think. Painting doesnt take long. 30 or 40 minutes a coat and 30 or 40 minutes sanding between coats. But thats all the work that can be done in one day when painting in the construction area in order to keep dust down. So you can see it will take a lot of days working only a few hours a day.
01-20-2008, 01:33 PM
03-29-2008, 09:54 PM
Here are a few more update photos.
Inside of hull cleaned up.
Getting ready to fiberglass inside hull.
Inside hull fiberglassed. Laminated deck beams.
Sheer clamp jig made to laminate sheer clamps. I got real lucky as the sheer clamps fit perfectly. The other blocks on the jig were for the deck beams.
Clinton B Chase
03-29-2008, 10:15 PM
Your Marshcat looks like a professional job. Great work. And what an inviting boat it will be...keep us posted, I'll look forward to seeing the finished boat.
03-30-2008, 04:42 AM
Wow - great job with the boat, pictures and updates!
Can't wait to see the next installment.
03-30-2008, 10:19 AM
GREAT looking boat! Of particular interest to me is the photo of the inside, showing all those beautiful strips. Within the next year, I'll be strip-planking an 18' foot version of Garden's TomCat. I've been concerned about the amount of lateral bending the strips will take, given the beam of a Catboat. The strips in your Marchcat appear to have taken the bends well.
Questions: Did you bevel the edges, or "bead & cove" them?
How did you fasten the edges- eposy, nails. PL Premium...?
What size are the strips?
03-30-2008, 11:24 AM
I started out using bead and cove strips. I started at the sheer. I then changed to retangular strips. The bead and cove strips are not worth the trouble and waste a lot of wood making. I would not use them again. The strips are edge fastened with epoxy and stainless steel finish nail to hold them together until the epoxy cures. The nail were of course left in. The strips were 13/16" X 1". Actually they varied from 3/4" to 1 1/8" depending how much bend. It is not necessary to bevel the edges. Just use narrower strips in the bildge curve areas.
03-30-2008, 05:42 PM
Thanks for the info- hope mine looks as good as your's!
03-30-2008, 06:03 PM
This is the first sheer clamp epoxied on today. Wish I had more clamps. Could have done the other side also. You can see the slight "S" shape of the clamps resting on the boat.
04-02-2008, 10:06 PM
Great job! Thanks for sharing your work and the link to your photos.
I haven't been to the WB forum in a while. About two months ago I pulled out Marsh Cat plans that i have been delayed in pursuing, studied them for a little while, and just started laying out and building the molds. I figured i ought to see what the WB community was up and was psyched to see this post. I will take a slow route, but it nice to see a March Cat builder many steps ahead of me. Keep the posts coming!
The plans call for cold molding... you decided to strip. What pushed you to go in that direction?
04-17-2008, 10:31 PM
The boat has been moved to the trailer. This will make it easier to finish the interior as the boat can now be leveled side to side and for and aft.
I use two chain hoists to lift boat as needed. They work great!!!!! No more waiting for help to lift or turn boat.
All sheer clamps on and the centerboard trunk installed (epoxied). The top of the centerboard case is parallel to the waterline making it easy to level boat for and aft. The case will be used as the measuring reference point for the interior buildout.
04-24-2008, 09:26 PM
Starting to fit floors.
Cut in slots for deck beams.
Closeup of slot. Note laminated sheer clamps.
04-24-2008, 10:19 PM
Looks great. Thanks for the photos. I am following closely... and intensely interested. I am still working on the molds for my Marsh Cat. I am beginning to price wood for the stem, transom and strips for the hull. The more I looked into it, the more strip planking makes sense.
Anyway keep the photos coming. They are inspiring!
04-26-2008, 03:42 PM
Deck beams cut. Checking fit.
05-11-2008, 03:14 PM
Jig to laminate carlins in place.
Carlins laminated from four strips of 5/8 X 7/8 Douglas Fir
05-16-2008, 08:19 PM
Better view of carlins.
Deck beam notched to accept carlin.
06-11-2008, 09:52 PM
I got tired of working on the boat so I started on the spars for a change of pace. I found some 22' mast a spar grade Sitka Spruce in Annapolis this weekend. I epoxied the mast this evening.
The 2 x 4's the mast is sitting on were planed on the bottom to create a straight line.
06-12-2008, 09:41 PM
A few more pics.
Curved carlin supports made from 1 1/2 plywood. (two 3/4" pieces epoxied together)
06-17-2008, 08:47 PM
Cutting mast to octagon.
Mast, Boom, and Gaff.
06-18-2008, 09:24 PM
I remember people asking the weight of msats in the past so I will post these now:
Mast: 36 lbs 19'5" tall 3 7/8" diameter. tapers to 2 1/2"
Boom: 14 lbs 15'6" long 2 1/2" diameter. tapers to 2" diameter
Gaff: 4 lbs 10'9" long 2 1/8" X 1 7/8" at center. 1 7/8" X 1 5/8" at one end and 1 3/4" X 1 1/2" at other end
04-05-2010, 06:36 PM
Here are a few pics from last weekend. They were taken at an island beach near St. Michaels MD.
04-05-2010, 07:58 PM
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