View Full Version : Recaulking dried out planking

07-21-2001, 07:53 PM
I have a centerboard sloop, cedar on oak that's been out of the water for three seasons, I think that the port garboard needs replacement. Should I make a duplicate of the old one that leaves an open seam, or should I fit the new up tight to the adjoining plank?

07-21-2001, 09:05 PM
replicate the stbd.

07-22-2001, 08:15 AM
I think I strayed from my subject query a bit. I also am trying to figure out the right order of events to get this boat recaulked. There's a lot of daylight showing through the hull all around. The seams below the waterline were filled with polysulphide or something. I think I need to reef the seams, swell the planks and then recaulk. Now if I reef all the seams at once do I risk the boat changing shape? Opinions? Advice?

Allen Foote
07-22-2001, 10:24 AM
The new cedar you replace with will not be as dry as the existing plank....unless you leave it outside for 3 years....that being said....cut the new plank tighter than the old piece.....don't close up the seam...leave room for the plank above it to swell. Cut in a caulking bevel. Because the new plank has a higher moisture content...it will not swell as much as the original. Cedar drys/swells alot in comparison to other woods so the amount of open space in the seams can seem excessive. However, the amount of each seam should be uniform so you can gauge the overall swelling of each plank. Is it 1/4" or 5/16"? ect., divide by 2.

07-22-2001, 07:00 PM
Replace the garboard after the boat has had a chance to swell up. Make the new cedar garboard plank "light tight" to the next plank. Are you going to use a garden sprinkler, soaker hoses or what? Now is the time to make a decision about refastening your boat, prior to re-caulking it. If you are concerned about your boat changing shape during removals/repairs then make sure that the keel, stem, horn timber and transom are shored up and that you have plenty of support along the turn of the bilge. Once your boat has taken up you can progress your way thru your repairs by working from forward to aft. Keep the hull damp during your repair period, don't disrupt or remove too much stuff all at once. Good luck.

Dale Harvey
07-23-2001, 08:40 AM
Good, your useing your head and will probly be able to caulk. If the planks, frames, and fastenings are all in good shape, and the boat braced off well, you will be unlikely to change her shape by reefing out. When you start putting it back though, you can induce major problems if you try to hammer one seam at a time with the others slack. Just like tightening head bolts. Working smaller areas and running several seams together is far safer. Also gives you a break alternating between operations.