sani-tred

[Con LanAdo]

if anything sounds like the real deal this may be it. It may have taken the Cleekster a decade to give respect to CPES but i belive a product like this should have some airing - good,bad or indiff - now. I know i'll not be the 1st since i read about it here but i will have my oder in pronto.

[Huey]

I removed the Natulx Vinyl from my 24 foot Skiff Craft and applied Sani-tred. It is great stuff. It is kind of tricky to apply and the instructions are not too good. I needed about $300 worth of product. Comes in only gray and white. You have to order 300 gal to get colors. I am told by the company that it can be pained with epoxy paint.

Huey

[sdowney717]

They have more colors now.
I have been using sand which is a light beige color.
I think they have white, primer gray, dark gray, light beige. I would like to see a blue color.

[Dan McCosh]

I think what you are looking at is similar, if not identical, to liquid pickup bed liner material. This is a polyurethane that sets up to something similar to liquid rubber--an old, well, known roofing material. The idea of lining the exterior of a boat hull would be quite similar to appying a layer of fiberglass to the exterior, with a flexible, rather than a rigid, surface. It could well work to some degree, but I would expect it to have similar problems, particularly sealing in the moisture in the planking, with the result accelerating any existing rot in the planks, etc. It would add no structural strength, and could have a tendency to peel. I have seen at least one deck done in liquid neoprene, which has similar properties, but is chemically different. This was actually successful, compared to a canvas deck. Picture troweling on a layer of 5200 or Sikaflex (which are also one-part urethanes) to the whole exterior of a boat hull and you get the picture of what you would be doing. The concept isn't too different from the old canvas-covered canoes or Penn-Yann hulls. I've never heard of a larger hull done with this technique, however.

[Jamaica Mike]

Originally posted by Huey:
I removed the Natulx Vinyl from my 24 foot Skiff Craft and applied Sani-tred. It is great stuff. It is kind of tricky to apply and the instructions are not too good. I needed about $300 worth of product. Comes in only gray and white. You have to order 300 gal to get colors. I am told by the company that it can be pained with epoxy paint.

HueyGot pictures?

JM

[Stargazer14]

I used a similar product (Rot Doctor?) on the deck of my '68 Trojan Skiff after removing the Nautolex and I liked the results. (after a lot of deck work)
Flexible yet tough.
CPES'ed the ply first.
After the first coat I masked the edges with 2" tape and recoated with a layer mixed with round sand for more of a grippy texture
(didnt want my kids slipping into the drink while running around on deck with wet feet)
This is the best I can do for photos at the moment.

http://www.dplus.net/stargazer/deck.jpg

[py]

Any of these guys stil around?

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

This should go here for the WBF search engine


OK, so how long does this Sanitred last? a year? 5 years? 10 years? how do you get it off when its done?

maple looks great on a boat for a year...


-Thad

OK so here is the deal for me. I was stuck in a quandary with Dove. The deck was just painted T&G ply. Some rot but not much. The deck had never had canvas on it, we took off all the combings and rails and no indication of any tacks or remaining canvas, odd but true. Asked the pervious owners if there had been anything other than paint used they said nope. After we realigned the deck and gave it back its much needed camber, the decision on how to stabilize the deck was an issue. First though was to use traditional cotton / white lead and irish felt. But the deck itself was T&G so cracking and movement were a BIG issue. Then we though OK Dynel and epoxy again the T&G movement was a big deal. So we thought OK remove the T&G replace with marine ply and then go traditional Cotton and white lead. But what about a third option SANITRED. It was elastic enough to expand and contract the T&G and also hydrostatic to prevent water penetration. Best of all what was the down side ??? We would have to remove the deck and replace it with a solid ply deck? Well we would have to do that anyway. So why not experiment.

This is the experiment. IT WORKED OUT FANFREAKINGTASTIC

FULL DISCLOSURE

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m320/fosterhere/L1070310.jpg

Sanitred :eek: :eek: :eek:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/p68f24a9a2213234955240ba544ed0933/eed295b1.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p130d96da5d0e0ea0d4b81bab32eb7d50/ee81418f.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid209/p72caf49e7ecc117ae1d5dd73afa1c560/ee26c875.jpg

Ohh the sarcralage :)

FWIW the product worked FLAWLESSLY. The rubber grip is much softer on knees and feet than Dynel and epoxy and does not slip. Most important it MOVES (Dynel and epoxy do not ) and is 100% Hydrostatic. Welcome to the future my friends.

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

The Website SUX !!!! :mad:

OK lets start at the beginning.

This is how I got Dove with her painted T&G ply deck. She was fastened with monel nails.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid161/p953ab08d9a6d0a43abaaf7b7e6dbfce3/f4c109c6.jpg

Close up of the deck as she came.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid179/pb54196a768acb8ee2fd2befccee9a637/f30f3a97.jpg

Close up of the T&G ( actually a very well done spline )

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid179/pd7998362cf0edb98b85857edd2aba912/f30f3a75.jpg

Here is the deal. We scrapped, sanded the deck down to bare wood.
After scraping and sanding the deck down to bare wood, we routed the seams to give us a fresh place to apply the LRB (Liquid Rubber Base) is a fluid rubber which will cure throughout its entire volume at ANY THICKNESS in 4 hrs or less at temps 70° F. We applied the LRB in the seems to give max expansion to the splined deck and the LRB is totally bondable. to the final Sanitred product.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid204/p73061d0f8173e712cf7aee26e0f6dd2f/ef74c37a.jpg

Initial samples of Sanitred products

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid164/pad68508e66c8402d4ff3c70abf5b867b/f484b099.jpg

LRB (Liquid Rubber Base) is a fluid rubber which will cure throughout its entire volume at ANY THICKNESS in 4 hrs or less at temps 70° F. or higher (longer in colder temps). LRB cures reliably even in extremely cold temps, never produces gas during curing and does NOT generate heat as it cures. LRB is solvent-free, low VOC, low odor, molecularly welds to itself new to old; just to name a few of its unique characteristics. LRB cures to a hardness of “shore A" 65 which is as though as a truck tire and has 650% elongation.

Then we mixed up the Sanitred permaflex, a little goes a long way. Using a couple of test strips we found that a good chip brush worked best and it had some self leveling properties. But be careful about pooling I have some too thick spots on the fordeck, but all in all a great first attempt. It also comes in a very nice light beige color.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/p1bb2e738a610ce949f75a35dc1419121/eed296ea.jpg

Its fairly easy to mask off traditionally. Then we used some very expensive ground rubber. It comes as a fine powder we chose the fine powder because the sanitred non skid powder was way too course and we wanted that canvas / Dynel look. So we sprinkled it liberally on the deck while the permaflex was still wet.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/p6c9a320821cf1a320bf9f1844bd3e36d/eed2964e.jpg

Ta da

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/p2a942929c03370fcd89efba159f333e8/eed29504.jpg

It makes a nice clean line, all you have to use is Xytol (sp) to clean up.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/pe5b3a7629be04879916aee869c5e4f16/eed2958c.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid206/pf8582e8ae330f6e5e81b1b804f26fa00/eed29568.jpg

It also acts as a natural bedding for fittings

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid207/p9cc6b11110ac4232a217eed5788aa771/ee9aacce.jpg

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid208/p130d96da5d0e0ea0d4b81bab32eb7d50/ee81418f.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid210/p6e53c3a10d3b36446d5b788252936aaa/ede33046.jpg

Best of all it is resistant to Champagne ;)

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid211/p8bcd1b20e02ce5865a2e48154d5e070c/ed9a546a.jpg

The deck is the driest part of the boat

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid214/p11ad11e9f53cf330213cdd1ea663cb89/ed237c14.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid214/p5174df5b2c4ef4b63f10045721b33f3a/ed237bd6.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid214/p480e2e186e6f17fce04b05934260ebec/ed237824.jpg

[Bark]

Sani-Tred now has smaller rubber granules, which may look better on a traditional boat. FYI

http://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL483/8634233/16009429/249708849.jpghttp://pic50.picturetrail.com/VOL483/8634233/16009429/249708856.jpg