Got a Mirror Dinghy For 200 $quids!!!!

[Duncan Gibbs]

I'm one VERY happy Tweed Riverite!! Was begining to think that it was going to be some time before I put up a bit o' rag up the Tumby Reach of the Tweed but..... I scored this little Mirror for the princely sum as stated in the thread title!!:D It needs some work I reckon about two to four weeks in my spare time and she'll be some fun on the River before the real work begins... when I get my first batch of Silky Oak and silicon-bronze screws for the Krazy Kat. Please note the deliberate use of the word "when.";)

She'll either be a throw-away when Krazy Kat gets built or a priceless family heirloom alongside Krazy Kat...

Without further a-do!...

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294610.jpg

Note the bad jobby on the starbord gunnel...

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294642.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294648.jpg

and same from the inside...

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294616.jpg

[Hwyl]

Start by reading this

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51NHA30FXFL._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-dp-500-arrow,TopRight,45,-64_OU01_AA240_SH20_.jpg

[Duncan Gibbs]

Now for the transom:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294630.jpg

Yes.. Her name will remain"Pippin."

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294633.jpg

But at least the top half of the transom will be replaced. And same from inside...

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294811.jpg

Now to the bow end...

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294623.jpg

New half round for the top and new breast hooks stem and stern...

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294627.jpg

Now to the floor: Note the plywood plate where there should be a venturi:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294613.jpg

[Duncan Gibbs]

Floor from the bottom... One big flat piece of frozen snot!!!:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294639.jpg

A view of the hull exerior generally:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294641.jpg

Some previous seem repairs that need fairing in some places and replacing in others:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294637.jpg

A crack just fore of the daggerboard slot:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294638.jpg

And all spars, running and standing rigging, jib and gunter main:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294620.jpg

Some mouse bin'a'chewing here...

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294646.jpg

[Duncan Gibbs]

Start by reading this

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51NHA30FXFL._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-dp-500-arrow,TopRight,45,-64_OU01_AA240_SH20_.jpg

Got a link? (I just heard myself type that!!!... I'm sooooo bloody cyber!!:D:eek::rolleyes:)

[Hwyl]

Here's a link (http://www.amazon.com/Unlikely-Voyage-Jack-Crow-Odyssey/dp/1574091522/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1197807015&sr=8-1) to the American Amazon. It should be available in Australia, the author is a Vegemite chewer.

It's just a fun read that includes an old Mirror dinghy.

[Duncan Gibbs]

Gareth, A. J. Mackinnon didn't lift a finger in the restoration... I could get that far in the text on Amazon. Looks like a very nice read, despite the complete lack of technical shipwright detail and information. I think I may need an epoxy pump!

[Old Sailor]

As a former Mirror and Mirror 16 owner, I've never seen a Mirror in such sad shape. There's one available for free in the latest WB. At least the sail looks to be in good shape.
Old Sailor

[Duncan Gibbs]

Old Sailor, she is in a bit of a way, yes. But she can be launched and I saw her sailing off my shores two weekends ago and not doing too badly at all. I dare say the freight for getting that free Mirror from Chicago would buy me a perfect new one built right here. I hope to get her into some kind of shape soon. I'll probably have one or two or three or four more sails on her :D before starting work on her. Hope to have her sparkling at the end!

[Ron Williamson]

I had a Mirror not nearly as bad,but repairing it was like pulling the yarn of a sweater.
One thing led to another, now I have a sails,a rig,foils and a coffee can of fittings.
Good luck
R

[Mrleft8]

I'd say you got yerself a fine set of almost usable templates there.....

[Dan McCosh]

Is that really big enough to hold 200 squids?

[Wild Wassa]

I've done a couple of Mirrors. The first boat I restored was a Mirror.

Have you got a drama with that boat? ... rotten is fun.

Mrleft8, it isn't about having the templates ... it is all about putting the new pieces together. What you want is the molds. I know of a Mirror in new bits sitting on a floor in some guy's garage, he gave up on her. He didn't make molds before he tried to put her back together again. I should make him an offer for the bits.

I think I remember there being 128 stitches along a chine. 98 along the keel. 22 on each side of the bow. 68 on the transom. It could have been a few less than that. It is like a stitch every inch.

Mirrors are cute with their hankie sized spinnakers. Their VYC yardstick is only 146. With a light weight crew they can hoot along. In 25 knots Mirrors lack for nothing. I've sailed across Lake Eucumbene in 30+ knots in a Mirror ... with gusts to 60+ knots. The simple look of the boat belies their real quality to handle anything that is thrown at them.


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid198/pa8534433a42e98789fa976084caa11f9/f0bd497f.jpg


Warren.

[Duncan Gibbs]

Is that really big enough to hold 200 squids?

I suggest you are in need of some kind of currency converter.

Warren, I don't think I'm going to encounter too many dramas with this little ship: All the rot seems to appear above deck level. I've taken a few shots of the compartment interiors and it's all been well coated with lead red paint. Close examination of the photos and the hull (with a sewing pin in hand) seem to reveal no rot bellow deck with the exception of the scuppers on the transom. Those scuppers look way too big compared to the other Mirrors I've seen. What say you my fellow forumites?

Here are the pic's of the compartment interiors:

Fore compartment, port side of prow:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437576.jpg

Starbord side, beginning of chine:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437577.jpg

Shelf:
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437575.jpg

At V of fore bulkhead. Note the grey looking smudges of some kind of glue or filler:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437571.jpg

Same bulkhead, port side:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437578.jpg

Half of the gunk you see is just accumulated dirt, dust and sand.

[Duncan Gibbs]

And now to the side compartments. Firstly the looking forward in the port side:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437572.jpg

Looking aft in the same compartment:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437581.jpg

Starbord, forward view:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437574.jpg

And aft in the same compartment:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437573.jpg

Starbord side in the aft compartment:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437579.jpg

Port side in the same:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293437580.jpg

Note the tell tail black dribbles of resorcinol.

I think that I have an essentially sound vessel with a few bits of rot that, if nipped in the bud, will not affect the rest of the boat: The appearances of the scraped back paint work and the previously semi-completed repairs and patch-ups, I think, give a bad and false impression of the true state of my little Pippin!

The one area I have most concern about is the the transom, but if someone has, or could produce a section through the transom my fears may be either confirmed or allayed. I'm assuming that the construction here would be double skinned above deck, down to a cleat that sits on the deck and clamps into a cleat that sits below. Below the deck I assume the transom is single skinned with a stern post for the rudder gudgeons to fix into.... Think I need that section!

Another thing I'd like to find out is the history of this vessel. I assume that this could be done from her number: 30141?

[The Bigfella]

Well done Captain Duncan - enjoy

[Duncan Gibbs]

Cheers Mate! I most certainly will... Wanted to take her out this arv' but the heavens openned rather than just blow a little... Oh well!

[Old Sailor]

Here's a site that can also help you. Canadian Mirror site.
http://groups.msn.com/MirrorDiscussionForum
Old Sailor

[Duncan Gibbs]

Okay! Took out the little Pippin and she sails very well aside from the fact the tiller looked like it was about to detatch from the rudder and I think we may have encouraged that crack fore of the CB slot when launching: A fair bit of river came a gurgling in!! :eek::(

But she is a live wire: Fast and quick on the tiller! Gotta watch my head!!

So my main problems are:
1. Crack fore of CB slot: Do I just fill with epoxy and weigh it down until it takes, then put a dynal strip over? I was also considering putting a rubbing strip from this point up to the prow and fixing it both sides of the v.
2. Transom needs replacing: I think I should just do the whole thing.
3. Timber around sheer and gunnels requires patching in places.
4. Previous seem repairs are patchy and need fairing off and redoing.
5. Breast hooks at the prow and quarter knees at the stern require replacing.
6. Main needs patching.
7. Tiller requires cheeks to connect with the rudder properly.

I will also sand back and re-varnish the spars, CB and rudder.

Charlie (Boat Bear) told me of one good trick to kill black spore and stop rot quickly: Anti freeze.

I've also been told to use 2-pack poly for varnish and paint by a shipwright mate down in Sydney.

[Nanoose]

You mean he didn't pay YOU to take it away?!?! :eek: :eek:

[Duncan Gibbs]

You know I'm not like that Deb! :D:D

[seanz]

You mean he didn't pay YOU to take it away?!?! :eek: :eek:

Ahem.
How much did you pay for your dinghy Nanoose?
:D:D

[Duncan Gibbs]

Ahem.
How much did you pay for your dinghy Nanoose?
:D:D

Tell me more... Please!! :p

[Nanoose]

Ahem.
How much did you pay for your dinghy Nanoose?
:D:D

Like I said....he paid US to take it away! :eek: :D ;)

[JimD]

I ordered plans for one of these a couple days ago:

http://www.selway-fisher.com/Simp8p1.jpg

















Race ya!

[Duncan Gibbs]

You're on! A lug could never outpoint a gunter... Mate! This sedate looking little Mirror was a beast looking for wind this afternoon! It was like I had power power power power steering with a supercharged donk under the hood!! :D:D I reckon if I put one week full time into her, fingers crossed, she could be sparkling and non-leaky again. (Your opinion on this prognosis is most welcome at this point Warren!)

May even just put a big thick layer of gaff tape over the crack, jury rig the tiller and go for one more sail tomorrow! :D

[JimD]

They do look mighty fast. Darn things look like they have outboards on 'em:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid198/pa8534433a42e98789fa976084caa11f9/f0bd497f.jpg

[Duncan Gibbs]

Yes they do don't they!
http://www.ukmirrorsailing.com/gallery/Westerns%20sept%202001/images/DCP_0471_JPG.jpg

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

I am one of those blokes that likes to sail way out there in small plywood boats. I do not think about it often but the only thing that keeps me from a swim is a gallon and a half of epoxy and 50 m of glass tape.
I am an admirer of Mirrors and would by one in a tryce but, probably, not that one. It has a lot of strips, battens and patches for a boat that is supposed to be a stitch and glue hull. So, be careful.
The seams should be covered with tape that is 100mm wide minimum. 150mm on that keel crack. And glued down with epoxy. For strength you can put a strip of 150 over a strip of 100.
Holes should be patched with a plywood plug. Grind the edges of each at a steep angle so they nest together and glue in with thickened epoxy. This is not a perfect fix but it is better than what you have. Get rid of as much rotten wood as you can.
Of course you want to keep seepage to a minimum but it is just as important that the hull does not come undone while you are out on the water. Forget about a balloon spinnaker for awhile. No use tempting fate.
That beauty has been thru' a lot, so be careful.
Good luck.

[Wild Wassa]

Fast is relative Jim, the boats look fast, with a light crew they get out of the hole without any effort. The Mirror's VYC yardstick is only 146, they are in the group known as the non performance dinghies. They are one of the slowest dinghies still raced ... but one of the best for light crews to race because they are so forgiving.

In an open fleet of Class A and B dinghies, when raced half well, a Mirror will beat even a performance dinghy with a good crew on handicap ... they are a very efficient boat.

Of the 63 dinghy classes with Associations racing here, there are only 6 Classes with higher yardsticks than the Mirror. In order, the International Cadet, Fairy Penguin, Sabot, Sabot (2 up), Opti and Access dinghy.

Following the paint recommendation from your friend the shipright, he is right. I only use two pack poly. 2 pack polyurethane is the standard material here for professional use, that is all we see and all we use in paint and clear. I use Aquacote and Aquacote Clear from BoatCraft Pacific.

A Mirror painted in Aquacote. She is the first boat that I restored and painted.


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid22/pebf71279c6e930df731e8bebe82eb6f1/fda96279.jpg


I sometimes use De Beers Berocryl and Imron poly if I'm matching existing paint types. International's Perfection I recommend to non painters because it is very flexible on timber and is self levelling. Only the Aquacote is water based but it is not self levelling, so if you use it thin it well, thin to the maximum. Details are in the data sheets and on the can.

She was a few dozen restorations ago now and still remains the most important boat that I've restored. None of the dozen yachts that I've restored has anywhere near the same value to me that this little boat does. Hundreds of Sea Scouts would have sailed her by now.


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid22/p9e17f3c655c08cb24887035604e3be99/fda9684b.jpg


Then she was cut and polished about a month after painting, to allow for hard curing. There is nothing like a 2 pack poly for making a slippery racing surface on a boat that is dry sailed. I wonder how she looks today.


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid22/pef5d253a7b2c040c9a714ed4eed0822b/fda961c3.jpg


The tape inside the buoyancy tanks looks good on your boat, so retaping if needed on the deck and cockpit, shouldn't be too difficult. I went through a huge roll of tape retaping every seam.

Cuyahoga Chuck said, "... forget about a balloon spinnaker for a while." I totally agree with CC. I've only raced a Mirror twice (in two races only) and the weakness of the boat was instantly evident ... get a spinnaker twice the size! Move your crew right to the back of the boat, pull the CB and go ballistic!

The Mirror competition/design was for a small boat to sail on the small flooded quarries in Britain. Well up on the Tweed you've got a bit more scope than that.

Warren.

[Wild Wassa]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid198/p8b6304ae4c0ab86c0c160300d9896b71/f0ba7216.jpg


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid198/p1debb3097c552b143a503a93a594693f/f0bb61b1.jpg


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid198/p180bfa7b15e9c4b7ba6df32782ce0105/f0bd552b.jpg


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid218/p772181aa265818a7ea6e2459b4e120ce/ec21512c.jpg


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid200/p2a4bb4165835746df6e6d9122ff804a6/f063d210.jpg


A naive sailor attempting to run the blockade ... against the red fleet.


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid198/pbdfa63a6b8dca4c2b1421f46cd9099ca/f0bd4974.jpg


Warren.

[Duncan Gibbs]

Righto Warren (and anyone else with a decent two bob's worth)!

Here is the tiller after yesterday's quick scoot over the River:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293710738.jpg
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293710740.jpg

A new tiller IS needed: What timber should I use? How many screws do I refix it with and is an automotive bog good for filling in the old screw holes? &/OR... Should I fit the new tiller with cheek pieces either side?... A bracket over the top and down the sides?? Throw me a bone!! :D

My proposed repairs to the hull:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293710739.jpg

Are these looking like the correct kind??

Also, what kind of timber is generally used for the clamps, gunnels, cleats and so on?

Is one week full time a realistic estimate?

PS: Warren, did you make those sails with the "W" in the corner?

[shamus]

OMG, dilemmas, I was going to offer you a rudder off an old junked mirror, but now I know mine's worth at least $400.....

[Duncan Gibbs]

OMG, dilemmas, I was going to offer you a rudder off an old junked mirror, but now I know mine's worth at least $400.....
Cheeky bugga! :D:D

[boylesboats]

They do look mighty fast. Darn things look like they have outboards on 'em:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid198/pa8534433a42e98789fa976084caa11f9/f0bd497f.jpg

Do they really skims along?

[Duncan Gibbs]

Bump! Warren?? Anyone???

Track? Right One? I'm on?

[boatbear]

Duncan, my two bob's worth - I used 'kiln dried hardwood' (Victorian Ash, typically) for things like the tiller. And yes, I'd be making a housing for the tiller.
Automotive bog is ok to fill holes, but there is very little strength in it. Epoxy (with appropriate filler) is stronger and has better expansion / contraction qualities.

Given the likely future of the boat, you can probably use any timber you like. I planked my boat with dirty ol' Pinus Radiata (epoxy sealed) and it's fine after 15 years.

Your sketches look pretty sensible to me.

re: estimated time - hey, this kind of work has the habit of taking up all available time. Enjoy it; at least you're not pushing a mouse.
Charlie

[Wild Wassa]

There is a need get a couple of boats finished before Xmas. Christmas time is Nationals time for many Classes ... and a touch busy here.

Can you restore a boat in a week? I can restore a glass dinghy in a week or redo the outer hull on a 22ft glass yacht in a week including refitting the staunchons, bedding speedos, installing a fish finder, depth finders, reseating rubbing strips including stripping and repainting a keel ... but a small wooden boat can take you a year. Restoring the rudder, CB rudder box and tiller will take at least a week.

The Mirror that I restored took me 17 months. I used the boat for learning about epoxy and boat restoration/conservation techniques/apprenticship ... most of which I've now forgotten, thankfully.

I worked on the boat nearly every day for 17 months ... until I thought that I had epoxy and the different light weight additives sussed right out. Sixty coats of paint I applied and removed from the outer hull of the Mirror, before I thought that I had a racing surface in Aquacote down pat. The Mirror was a good training aid, another reason whyI like the boat as much as I do.

The Mirror in my first photos had Mahogany gunnels, but if you can get access to Coachwood or Yellow Caribbeen, they will lighten your load greatly. My dinghy, a Seafly, is all Coachwood with some Red Caribeen. I fully recommend Coachwood and the Carabeens as superlight boat building materials. Coachwood is called Coachwood for no small reason ... it could have been called Boatwood.

Your drawings are excellent. The strip that runs the length of the cockpit, that is not a Mirror feature. Just the tape. The tapes on Mirrors are from 6-8cm. Not very wide at all.

Sorry that I went AWOL, approaching Xmas I'm trying to finish this yacht as well as trim-up some racing dinghies. There is a lot of wire rope to swage on the average yacht hey! Hopefully she will be finished today if I don't have to make a new forstay, the rake on this Farr is dodgy (out by 5cm over 6m) thanks to a badly made forstay. At least I have the tuning guide for Farr 6000 yachts and a long tape measure.

Do you have a copy of the tuning guide for a Mirror and a small tape measure? ... the tuning guide will be on the web.

I must go to work and get this yacht finished, before storms possibly happen. Storm warnings are for all of NSW for the next couple of days. The warnings are saying that on the Tweed you'll get hammered ... I hope all goes well, up your way and you don't get hammered. The BOM are so out with their predictions lately, I'll believe this monsterous looming storm when I see it or it floats my boat. Good luck Mate.

Warren.

[Duncan Gibbs]

Thanks for the comments guys! Don't think this little Pippin's going to be racing again: Not for some time anyhoo, as there is a complete dirth of other sailing vessels, let alone Mirrors, on the Tweed at this point in time.

I could spend 17 months doing her up, but that would defeat the purpose of buying her in the first place: A stop gap on which to sail before I start building and then complete the Atkin Krazy Kat. The difference between the two boats in terms of construction is worlds apart, so the idea that I should become totally au fai with epoxy when the major build will be batten-seamed carvel is a not a going proposition.

So Warren, based on what you've said, would about three weeks full time may be a more realistic estimate to get lettle Pippin to the state I would like her: Safe, sailable and looking okay?

BTW, as you may have guessed at this stage I'm not too concerned about having a one design/rule boat, just somethinhg to mess about in!! :D

[Duncan Gibbs]

Well, me and a mate took the little Pippin out on the river again this arv' and, well, by jingo, we were havin' a great ol' time.... UNTIL.... The tiller cleaved off from the rudder COMPLETELY! :eek: And this is after I'd rescrewed the bugga with longer new screws.

I'd also gaffed the crack fore of the CB slot up + both sides and aft of the CB slot pretty dang well: Not much of a leak at all after that: So at least I know the CB Case isn't stuffed. :D

The only major amount of river we copped inside came from when the tiller and rudder parted ways and the boat breached pretty suddenly: Dropped the main and I held the rudder with me mit and my mate controlled the jib... Perfect landing! :D:rolleyes::cool::p

Merry Bloody Xmas and Hippy No Yar!!!

Methinks I need a bloody epoxy pump!!

[Ron Williamson]

I remember what finished mine.
A guy took it out for a sail on a small lake that has more than it's share of reefs.He sailed over one to get to a bleach bottle "that some idiot must have thrown overboard".
Said bleach bottle was actually marking the reef.
The daggerboard case pivoted on the forward end,splitting from the bottom panels and breaking the thwart.
R

[Wild Dingo]

So??? What gives Dunc?? you finished it yet?? gotta get it done in time for Chrissy mate!!! give the hoons and those that visit somethin to do while you prop up the esky next to the barby!! :D

Good score!! :cool:

which reminds me I must make a cover for that wee thing the FIL threw at me the other month... I gots a wee bit of work to do on her too not as much as you though ;) all I need to do is recut the old CB slot out again... just a matter of cutting through the several layers of FG he bunged over it when he used it as his tender... and thats about it... although maybe checking the mast and sails out wouldnt be a bad idea the sails been in its bag for something like 20 years while the mast and riggings been stuffed in the corner of the shed for about as long... but well he was gonna dump it at the local tip and we cant have that can we so home it came must get up the back of the shed and do something about that... we reckon the fix will be pretty simple just a sand back cut out the CB and reglass and she will be pretty much done... not sure about the rudder and its fittings nor the deck fittings but can look into all that later

Im thinking one of those throwup an throway plastic over thin metal carports would do?

Anyway well scored old mate well scored :cool:

[Duncan Gibbs]

Righto! I haven't been spending all my time in the Bilge and in fact have been "making hay" whilst sun doth shine!!

The tool:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272861.jpg

The stand (roll in and roll out):

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272857.jpg

The hull faired back to bare wood with as much of the crappy glass seems left as possible. Note that it would appear the original hull was joined with resorcinol alone and no glass tape was used: Could this be right??

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272864.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272885.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272872.jpg

[Duncan Gibbs]

And now to zoom in on the "hot" spots!! Note the outline of where I intend to cut to to add the new timber.

At the prow:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272881.jpg

Along the starbord gunnel:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272879.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272876.jpg

Starbord stern. Note the thin strip under the gunnel... Not sure whether to patch or soak with an anti-black spor solution and bog with epoxy here?

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272874.jpg

Stern both sides. I have an idea that I won't actually have to replace the whole of the stern, but just the areas around the scuppers.

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272870.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272869.jpg

[Duncan Gibbs]

Lastly to the bottom of the hull. This is the area fore of the CB... Small but significant!!

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272866.jpg

I may have to put some kind of a plate (ply sheet) on the other side, in the cockpit just to reinforce this spot once the repair is in place.

And where the old venturi is:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/301272865.jpg

Not sure if I should just leave this in place and put a new plate inside the cockpit to replace the ugly one that's there now?? Thoughts?

Here's a reminder of what it looks like:

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1913/10058894/18552276/293294613.jpg

[Old Sailor]

I'm exhausted looking at all those pictures of damage and wear. I'm also feeling bad that my Mirror is so long gone.
Old Sailor

[Yeadon]

Seems your little boat has turned into a big project, eh?

What's the approved method for scarfing in new sections of plywood?

I'd be tempted to just bevel down the plywood, scarf in a new piece and back it liberally with epoxy and tape. Lots of it. Then I'd dip it in paint and not look too close.

[Duncan Gibbs]

Tim, I think I'll just be doing a bevel as you and Cuyahoga Chuck have suggested. Fortunately, the rot is mostly along the gunnels so the gunnel and clamp/inwhale will hold the patchings in place along at least one edge. For the rot in the floor/keel I'll do the same but put a 'plate' of ply over the floor as well, plus get rid of the ugly piece over the area where the venturi was and match it up to the 'plate' fore of the CB. Not sure whether to leave the big lump of frozen snot in that area though or scarf a new piece of ply in?

More thoughts? Plus does anyone think that Pippin may have been entirely glued up with resorcinol? I couldn't seem to find any evidence that there was ever some kind of original tape along the seems.

Three layers of different coloured paint yes, but no tape!

Warren??

[Duncan Gibbs]

Correction: Tape INSIDE the hull but no evidence of any OUTSIDE.

[Duncan Gibbs]

Bump:

For the rot in the floor/keel I'll do the same but put a 'plate' of ply over the floor as well, plus get rid of the ugly piece over the area where the venturi was and match it up to the 'plate' fore of the CB. Not sure whether to leave the big lump of frozen snot in that area though or scarf a new piece of ply in?

More thoughts? Plus does anyone think that Pippin may have been entirely glued up with resorcinol? I couldn't seem to find any evidence that there was ever some kind of original tape along the seems.

Three layers of different coloured paint yes, but no tape!

Warren??

Plus, what's the thoughts of using exterior grade ply as a cheaper alternative to spending $64 on a sheet of 2400x1200 4mm thick marine ply that I'll only use one fifth of. Am I barking up the wrong tree?

And Warren, where are those pictures of that CB foil you were glossing up before you popped down to Victoria?

[Wild Wassa]

Duncan, " ... glossing up..." Skipper? ... that is an interesting term but it doesn't describe a racing finish.

You meam the 1.8m long foil for the Sonata 6.7 ? ... that was getting a racing surface put on it? See Building and Repair 'Painting trouble'.

I'm doing a Magic 25 rudder at the moment, it is beyond glossy, it is actually nice. This foil will blow you away ... it blows me away. I should have it finished by Saturday and I'll post some shots of it back on the polyurethane thread.

Now back to the Mirror. Tape all outer seams. Mirrors are heavilty taped boats in and out.

With the scarfs, I cut 10:1 - 12:1 slopes with 3 and 4 mm ply. 6:1 and 8:1 scarfs are piddling. You don't appear to have tortured surfaces so they should not be too difficult to scarf after cutying out the rot. Then several coats of CPES or Evidure on the new endgrain surfaces before gluing in the new bit.

I think you might be surprised at how much ply you will use over the next few seasons. A full sheet of marine ply hanging around, keeps a boat restorer fearless.

I like your rolling trolly.

Warren.