restoring aluminum rub rails, trim, etc....

[Ralphw]

anyone have any tips on sprucing up the aluminum trim on my 1961 grady?

the strip on the stern was toast but the rest in pretty much just stained and scratched. I was thinking scotch brite/buffer?

also should I coat it with something after?

this is going to be both a fresh and salt water boat.

[ 08-29-2005, 09:31 PM: Message edited by: Ralphw ]

[George Ray]

Aluminum boat trim pieces invariabley are anodized (hard oxide coating) that is highly resistant to tarnish/oxidation. Once you or your life/friends/bumps/scraps/etc remove the very very thin but hard anodized coating, the raw aluminm is much freer to corrode. It is not a really big deal unless there is contact with very disimilar metals (copper, brass, even stainless)or if the salt water stands on/under that metal for very long periods. The outer surface can be cleaned with abrasive and then kept waxed and the part can be bedded in a non-corrosive caulk such as polysulfide/polyurethane or ?non-vinear? smelling silicone. The silicone types I don't know much about, just that there is a potential issue using the ?wrong? silicone type.

[pcford]

This stuff is usually not worth cleaning up; it is really not very expensive. $2 a foot (?)

Most aluminum trim patterns are available. Taco is a supplier. Nationwide, I believe.

[pipefitter]

Yes,Taco is the right answer. If it is something that you can't replace you can have it reanodized if it isn't pitted too badly.There is a spray called "corrosion block" that after you get it cleaned you can keep it that way with wiping that on with a rag. You can also sand it with 400 grit and then buff it with tripoli compound on a buffer wheel and it will mirror shine it. Keep corrosion block on it and it will stay like that.

[Victor]

I tried taking my rubrails to the buffing wheel on the grinder, with limited success. Once they get pitted beyond a certain point they're hardly worth trying to save. Thanks for the tip on Taco.