The good, the bad, and the leaking...

[Concordia...41]

You already know the good, there is no bad, but alas, we appear to have a leak of significance. This is part of my excuse for not getting more pictures posted and not extending a proper thank you for the "yacht signaling safety device." Said proper thank you in the works...

At any rate, we had a little bump (more like full force) against a piling as we came out of the slings. The current was running out and the wind was coming from the same direction. Plan was to pull the boat over to port to give us running room - i.e. get full throttle in reverse, but that wasn't enough and the current caught the keel and rudder and full force right into the piling :(

I can't find the picture, but there's visible scratches and scrapes on the starboard side, and as I was leaping aft to throw my body between Sarah and the piling (just kidding), I saw the side of the boat flex.

James crawled back there today and either there's no damage, or it's hidden behind the bilge stringer..

The leak that we've been fighting though - we originally thought was the stuffing box. That was tightened and that wasn't it. The next guess was the shaft log area, which had quite a bit of work done to it.

Further inspection today shows that it is running down the horn timber from somewhere higher than the stuffing box. At any rate, something is pissing a solid stream about the diameter of a #2 pencil. And no, it's not taking up.

This is a silly picture - Claudia and I were just hamming it up for the camera - but I bet that it's the heavily puttied area just over the cutlass bearing. Other factors include my overpowering of the boat and the limited clearance of the prop - it's within tolerances, but by like 1/64th (if that).

We had a noticible vibration when we ran the engine full on (3200 rpm), but it needs to be able to be firewalled and it needs to be able to take a pounding offshore.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce09b3127ccebf003d8d9e7d00000026108BYtG7lsxbq

So we'll haul on Monday and see if the outside gives us some clues....

[jerrys]

It's a bit too soon to get excited about leaks not taking up. Some of the big timbers could take a week or more to swell up. Hang in there and be patient.

[Thad]

Mahogany and oak are both slow to swell, moreso the oak. She's been in a day and only a little more. This is not to say that there is not a leak that will not stop, but it is very possible that it will yet stop. Fountains have a way of spouting for days and then suddenly becoming a slow stream before stopping altogether. I wouldl need to check SKYE for the exact structure, but there are joints between the stern post and the horn timber as well as the rudder post bearing that might well stream and then stop. You may yet need to haul and work on that leak, but don't dispair yet. With SEA HARMONY this year, out of the water last Winter, we had a leak around the shaft log. I couldn't see where the stream emerged, so I caulked and recaulked a couple of times before I drilled in to the bronze pipe log and pressureized BoatLife around the pipe, stopping the leak. Hopeing a little more time will prove worries baseless, if you pull her out trying for a fix, look close at the details and make sensible changes. I'm sure you will.

[StevenBauer]

Patience, grasshopper. :) Don't even start worrying for three or four more days.

Steven

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

Patience, grasshopper. :) Don't even start worrying for three or four more days.

Steven

Margo I know what your feeling. We went through a similar fear factor the first time we launched Tidbit. Now we know what to expect.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m320/fosterhere/Tidbit/L1050658.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m320/fosterhere/Tidbit/L1050675.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m320/fosterhere/Tidbit/L1050664.jpg

Sitting a little low on her water lines eh ? :eek:

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m320/fosterhere/Tidbit/L1050672.jpg


Giver her time in three days if it's still leaking like a sieve then ya might have a problem.

[Concordia...41]

Sitting a little low on her water lines eh ? :eek:

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m320/fosterhere/Tidbit/L1050672.jpg


Ya' think??? ;):p

Right now it's raining buckets again so we've water coming in from the top and bottom. James is at the marina next door so he gets the "wet watches"

I checked her right before dark and will go back at first light - or sooner if this rain keeps on and I keep fretting..

BTW and just so you know what a complete idiot you're dealing with, last night when I was so worried about things I stayed aboard. In preparation for staying aboard, I went by the warehouse and got a couple of shop lights (the flashlight thing was getting a bit old...).

James pointed out today that I unplugged the battery charger and plugged in the drop light.... :(:o

Geeze. Just when I think I've set the record for stupidity, I go and top my most recent effort.....

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

Margo what kind of pumps do you have on Sara? Do you have acess to shore power? Once we got the 110V electric sump pump running connected to shore power I could rest easy.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Everyone is right, especially since Sarah has been out of the water for so long. The entire boat will shift slightly as she tightens, and waterspouts, as Steve says, have a way of disappearing completely. Amazing but true. We have a 36 foot S&S sloop built in 62 at our marina... spanish cedar. She leaks like a sieve in the spring... two days later... nadda.

[Concordia...41]

Margo what kind of pumps do you have on Sara? Do you have acess to shore power? Once we got the 110V electric sump pump running connected to shore power I could rest easy.

Bilge pumps???

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce03b3127ccebeabcd589bf100000026108BYtG7lsxbq

Disregard the superfluous objects (engine vent and grinder) on the table...

Of this collection, the Rule 1500 is installed and running off the battery, the bazillion gallon per hour 110v Flotec is in place and on standby with it's own cord as it doesn't have a float switch, the 110v Rule 1800 is plugged in and running off shore power, and there's another 12v Rule 1500 tossed in just for giggles.

It is not easy being obsessive compulsive...

Yes, the battery charger is plugged in tonight... :o

Yes, it is still raining, and yes, I am contemplating a drive across town...

[Nanoose]

Still raining?!?! :eek: Tarpage time! :D

I'll send Dave down. He's Tarp King. :)

[StevenBauer]

last night when I was so worried about things I stayed aboard.


I stayed aboard Talisman the first couple of nights, too. Sounds like she'll be fine. Here is a pic I took just after launch of the mast step area. There were leaks like this the length of the hull:

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/bauerdad/Ostkust/IMG_1030.jpg

Steven

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

Steven that mast step looks so ummmmm simple for such a TALL mast. :eek::eek::eek:

[brad9798]

I didn't want to speak you when you said she had taken up 80% with the humidifier, etc ... my guess is that she will be just fine in a couple of days!!!

Hell, my ply Chris Craft leaks like a seive after a few months on the hard ...

[rbgarr]

When you say there's vibration at 3200 rpms can you tell if it's the engine vibrating on its mounts, the shaft, stuffing box and/or prop or is the vibration coming through the hull? Or maybe you weren't under way when you revved up to that speed?

I ask because the clearance between the prop's tips, stern post and rudder aperture look almost non-existent.

[P.L.Lenihan]

Good eye regarding the clearances! They do look a tad close. Other then that, with all the fresh red lead,paint and caulking, you should expect some time before the bigger timbers take up,especially up inside the stern post and around the stern tube timbers. Helped with a re-launch of a 36 footer with completely rebuilt transom and partial replacement of horn timber et al., took 4 days before it stopped completely and was agravated by running the engine in neutral. The owner was in a panic as he thought he was sinking(!) and could not understand how a new repair could leak, and this despite not wanting to pay for a total rebuild of some questionable bits.......
She'll be fine Margo, and worse case, the fix will be peanuts compared to what you have already undertaken. Bravo!!

Peter

[Concordia...41]

OK, if you all insist, I'll calm down.

Besides, it's raining and blowing a gale. It needs to clear off before I move the boat to the travel lift. I'm headed over there now to check dock lines & will post some pictures tonight.

Thanks!

- M

[oakman]

Margo

Congrats on the launch, she looks wonderful.

Might want to think about loosening that stuffing box till there is a little drip inside the boat. That way you know the inside of the shaft log is getting water and a chance to take up. I leave mines so that when we are motoring there is still a little drip as the shaft spins, that way I know the shaft is bieng kept cool and lubricated.

Otherwise it's true, keel members can take up to six months to reach their equilibrium and the first several sails will reveal new leaks as the planks work and take up again. All the best.

oak

[rbgarr]

I know I shouldn't say this, so I'll just whisper:

(All this is why I don't want a large wood boat.)

[seayou7]

Congratulations on your launch! She looks maaahvoulous! The black bottom paint is sporty.
Regarding leaking stern post area, that is common area of concern. There are several timbers that join at variety of angles. Will be slow to take up. Check the plate where the rudder post rises up through the horn timber. Alignment of rudder as well as engine will 'adjust' as the timbers take up. Leave things be for a bit. Then carefully check engine alignment before running the engine. If there be a wobble the torque of a diesel engine will wreak havvoc on the stern post and rudderpost, as well as the stuffing boxes.
I try not to run the engine for the fist week or two the boat is launched each spring. Relax, thing will work out! You have climbed a mountain, enjoy the view. Breathe.
Glad for you! Thanks for sharing with us armchair resotoration wannabe experts. D.

[willmarsh3]

Congratulations on the launch. Good luck with her getting used to the water.

I can offer advice only about the engine vibration issue. On my larger boat the engine vibrates badly between 1100 and 1700 RPM. It's not a major problem though as I don't normally run it in that range. I idle about 500 to 600 RPM, have it in gear for maneuvering near the docks up to around 1000 RPM and go directly to 1800 RPM for long distance runs.
You might be able to work out an operating scheme for your boat that similarly skirts around the problem ranges.

[outofthenorm]

I was so worried about things I stayed aboard. ..

No so strange Margot. I always stay aboard the first night ... not because I'm worried, but because I love the magic that happens as the big pieces get re-acquainted .. sometimes you can actually hear her take up. My girl has been out for 3 seasons, and I fully expect some drama when we go in next year .. I'd be amazed at anything less. Sarah has been dry a long time ... chances are she'll fix it herself. Enjoy this part too.

Oh, like everybody said, don't run the engine until you have to.

And one more thing ... lot's of rain right now is a good thing - the higher the humidity the better!


- Norm

[Russ Manheimer]

Margo,

You have been saving your finest sawdust for this day, haven't you? Nail a small can to a 10' pole at a right angle and fill with sawdust. When ready to go, turn over quick at the water so the cans upside down, then lower to a point under the suspected leak and jiggle the can so the sawdust escapes, rises and is hopefully drawn in to the leak. This will slow down the leak untill the timbers make up.

It's an old boatyard trick that I've used on more than one occasion.

Other than that, deep breaths. Sarah will be fine.

Russ

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

Margo,

You have been saving your finest sawdust for this day, haven't you? Nail a small can to a 10' pole at a right angle and fill with sawdust. When ready to go, turn over quick at the water so the cans upside down, then lower to a point under the suspected leak and jiggle the can so the sawdust escapes, rises and is hopefully drawn in to the leak. This will slow down the leak until the timbers make up.

It's an old boatyard trick that I've used on more than one occasion.

Other than that, deep breaths. Sarah will be fine.


Russ

Yea I did that with Dove, didn't work :( Felt a little like an idiot attempting to fill a serious leak with a little sawdust :rolleyes: It wasn't until PMJ got her that he finally located the source of the leak. It was a bit of missed caulking in the transom.

If Sara doesn't slow down or stop in a few days then I would try to locate the leak.

[Tylerdurden]

You need several people to tell you to be patient. It does take time though. My Egg leaked like a sieve for better part of five days.
Stevens talisman was the driest wooden boat I have ever seen considering how long she was out of the water, almost unnatural.

If after a couple of days it hasn't abated then consider pulling it.

[Bayboat]

When you fear sinking enough to stay aboard the first night or so after launching, go to sleep with a bare foot over the side of the bunk, and you will wake up when it's time to pump.

[Concordia 33]

Margo:
Home Depot has a Rigid tool called the "seesnake" it is a small color lcd screen with a 3 foot long snake at the end of which are 2 led lights and a mini-cam. It costs about $150 but is works great!. You can slip it into tight and dark quarters and see what's going on without the need to take things apart. You may wnat to get one and look around with it. I have used it to look for broken frames behind the ceiling and around the cockpit area. It is surpisingly useful. The launch photos look great - best of luck.

[Canoez]

Margo:
Home Depot has a Rigid tool called the "seesnake" it is a small color lcd screen with a 3 foot long snake at the end of which are 2 led lights and a mini-cam. It costs about $150 but is works great!. You can slip it into tight and dark quarters and see what's going on without the need to take things apart. You may wnat to get one and look around with it. I have used it to look for broken frames behind the ceiling and around the cockpit area. It is surpisingly useful. The launch photos look great - best of luck.
Be careful, tho. The Seesnake isn't waterproof!

[Concordia...41]

OK, well you really don't want to know what happened so far this morning, but here goes...

I guess James and I didn't communicate well on who was doing what watch. I got up at 4 am, but figured he checked her at 3, so I just stopped by on my way to work (aprox 6:30). Lights were on, but when I pushed back the companion way slider, a boat full of water looked back at me.

Both automatic bilge pumps weren't!

The autopsy isn't back on the new 110v Rule 1800, but it looks like a wire came off the back of the switch for the 12v. One of the float switches (blue one in the picture) had a wire on the side that was loose - probably due to being handled so much - in and out of boxes, back of the truck, etc. )

I went to plug in the Flotec, but the breaker on the dock blew. This is actually a good thing as we had drop cords down in the water at this point and I probably would have electrocuted myself. :(:eek:

When the breakers blew, I was in pitch dark and since James left the boat last, I didn't know where the flashlight was.

Also, James had taken the 1" hose off the Flotec and used it for the Rule 1800 because that one had two lengths joined with a connector, which was leaking. Even if I hadn't killed myself, it would have taken a bit in the pitch dark to figure out it was missing its hose... :(

Good news is that the water never got higher than the engine mounts and no one really got hurt. James took a jolt hard enough to throw him backward and I took a small hit based on my own stupidity (bare feet).

I lightly rinsed the bottom of the engine with fresh water to get the salt off and have two new float switches, two more bilge pumps, and a new bilge pump switch.

All wiring is high and up out of the water. (The bilge pump switch was temporarily mounted by the base of the companionway steps and got wet at some point.)

Lessons learned.

1. Never sleep (just kidding)

2. Use only new drop cords. As we were looking over things, every drop cord we had in play had / or needed some kind of repair - a new end put on, one was spliced and wrapped in electrical tape where I caught it in the hedge clippers...). It might be ok to put on a new end for one you're using in the shop, but here we are in the pouring rain frantically trying to get bilge pumps running and we're using a bunch of crap extension cords. NOT GOOD!

3. Everything stays high. We had cords on the floor, which ended up under a couple of inches of water. This was remedied by a handful of QuickClamps attached to the ceiling beams. The cords aren't clamped, just held up by the clamps.

4. We now have a portable GFI on the 30amp shorepower.

I'm sure there's more, but I've got to get back at it.

BTW - the leaks seem to be lessening...

[Thad]

I like the last line a lot!

[Ron Joslin]

Margo , I know you dont need this, but dont forget to keep a weather eye out for NOEL. You could be in for more rain. I am with you in thoughts, All the Best. Ron

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

Forget the battery operated bilge pumps

Get ye one of these

http://pressurewash.com/catalog/images/WPSPb.jpg

A length of garden hose and some clamps.

Cheep at home depot, has a float switch, connect to shore power, get some sleep.

FWIW the good news is she's leaking less.

[Noah]

If I wasn't down in Argentina I would post some pictures of me going through the exact same stuff with both the Folkboat and my Hinckley. Even after a winter out the Hinckley would leak like a bastard. 36 hours always seemed like the magic number for the Hinckley, IE after 36 hours the major leaks had slowed enough that I would come out of the slings. After that each day she was drier and drier. Only after about a week would I step the rig, and probably wait another few days before sailing.

We have all been through the failing pump game. Never really trust float switches...I have had way too many fail on me. The 110 pumps can be tricky as well. Often their float switches aren't designed for the tight quarters of a wooden boat bilge.

With my Hinckley I would just let the boat fill with water till just under the engine. I figured she would swell faster with both sides of the timber under water.

Good luck, and congratulations!

[Tylerdurden]

I would rather have a few deep cycle battery's then to have to rely on shore power. Never mind the safety issues on a fresh wet boat, it just seems a better bet to check the run time of your pumps against the battery at full charge and time your visits in that parameter. I put my boat in back in 87 and the next night a boat at the end of the dock burned. Lost power to the dock for a week. I had intended to go to a yard without power so I was ready but if I wasn't it would have been a scramble and we all know that a scramble with your boat in jeopardy means someone will have their eyes on your wallet.
I hate parasites who see dollar signs in misfortune so I do my absolute best to avoid them.

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

Obviously the battery bilge pumps failed :rolleyes:

[Tylerdurden]

Obviously the battery bilge pumps failed :rolleyes:

I cannot wire every boat Joe.http://www.woodenboatvb.com/vbulletin/upload/images/icons/icon6.gif

[Rich VanValkenburg]

The first week is a tough one but gets better after that. My Rule 1800 110v died while I was onboard, so I was able to pick up a new one and get some sleep. I didn't trust the first couple weeks to battery pumps alone.

[Dan McCosh]

Dunno if this helps, but we have launched maybe 15 times with the hull in varying states of dry/shrunk planking. The take-up time is directly related to the saturation of the planking. Actual wood "swelling" is mainly between 85%-100% moisture content. This means that if the hull is about 75%, it will take up and close very quickly. A hull dried to 20% or else (like Sarah) can take three-four days just to swell. We have had heavy timbers, once dried out seriously, take a whole season.
As for pumps, we usually use one or even two 110V. sump pumps, with 1 1/4 ins. hose, with a 3800 gpm battery pump with the float set to kick on if the 110v. fails. Pulled out electric cords, or stuck float switches are the most common cause.
I would wait at least a week before becoming concerned by one apparent unsealed leak.

[Concordia...41]

Bottom line, all is well.

Additional post-incident analysis:

We had both shore power and 12 volt pumps. In hindsight, it was pretty dumb to be plugging stuff in to 110 and 30 amp shorepower in the rain, in the dark, but I had a dedicated emergency pump and when I saw the water, I was all about deploying the emergency plan.

It is now in place with its cord looped at the companionway with a flashlight in a dedicated spot so that I don't even have to go below, much less stand in water. I just reach in, plug in the cord and pump pump pump goes the pump.

The leak is slowing considerably, and when I left about an hour ago, the pump was running for approx. 7 seconds ever 1 minute - 20 seconds.

However, when we got the water level down, we found a stowaway... :eek:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce08b3127ccebf3d0738271200000026108BYtG7lsxbq

;)

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7ce08b3127ccebf3d0738271200000026108BYtG7lsxbq

Priceless :D

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

She will take up... but I'm with Joe on carvel boats going in for the first time in a while....12v pumps bedamned. A big electric sump, plug it in, go home. By the way, the extra water in the bilge for a night probably just helped her swell faster... she could absorb from both sides..:D

[Canoez]

Anybody look at Page 59 in WB Issue 199? - I opened it up and was looking at the mooring floats being used as insurance while Shamrock "took up". Probably take a few dozen to keep Sarah up, but looks like cheap insurance if the pumps all go south.

[Concordia...41]

I think I'm getting ready to head back down there...

Now we have a screaming noreaster coming in ... :(

Oh brother...

[tripleburner]

margo~
Do you need my assistance tomorrow or wednesday? call me if you still have my number.

[The Bigfella]

Good luck. I'm sure she will take up well

[Salted Nuts]

Hi Margo,

It's great to watch someone else going through the same dramas we did after ours was out for just 4 mths. We too were pumping the boat dry until the shipwright came and told us we were best to leave as much water in the boat as possible to assist swelling from both sides.

Sounds like you are having fun:)

Pete

[Concordia...41]

margo~
Do you need my assistance tomorrow or wednesday? call me if you still have my number.


Thanks, but we should be ok (Sarah settling into her new surroundings, me going back to work)

I've got your number and will holler if there's anything going on. Also, when we get this silly stuff sorted out and go sailing, you and your wife will have to come down.

Thanks for all your help!

- M

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

It's fair to mention that this is the type of stuff that makes frozen snot boaters amazed and confused. Should I tell you that my Chris Craft goes in and only leaks a few dribbles for about a day then stops altogether? The bilge pump only comes on for about 15 seconds every five minutes or so, then falls off from there. The second bilge pump never even comes on. That said, if a double planked Chris leaks like a sieve, you have bigger problems :D

[Concordia...41]

OK I'm here. The storm doesn't seem so bad down here, or maybe we're both happier when I'm aboard. :)

Bilge pump now cycling every 1 min 35 sec so it is slowing.

Good night all...

-Margo & Sarah

[oakman]

Hey glad to hear things are going well.

Just wanted to reiterate some advice given earlier. You should probably, as much as you don't want to hear this, disconnect the engine from the shaft for a week or two while she takes up. Then check the alignment and if all goes well, reconnect. It would be a shame to ruin all that work for a little impatience. Things WILL move and could put a nasty little tweak to the prop shaft.

Granted my boat is about 90 years old, but we wintered in the water last year and midway through I noticed a little bend to the shaft. Disconnected and sure enough the cold weather had changed her shape. Waited for spring, minor engine adjustment and good to go.

All the best
oak

[Jay Greer]

What a grand little ship! I would be more concerned if she didn't leak upon launching. Boats that are that tight often end up with started fastenings and busted frames.
Jay

[Thad]

I took a look at SKYE yesterday, and the seam between the horn timber and the stern post is there just above the prop (that is a big prop) cut out. Also the rudder shaft tube is not far away. Either of those joints could well leak some. The timber joint certainly has a stopwater at the rabbet, but she has been out for a long time.

[Concordia...41]

When I left this morning, the blige pump was down to about a 2 min cycle, so it is obviously slowing. Also, the rain has stopped (for now) and I can get a better look at what's going on on the inside.

We didn't get the deck seams payed before launch (hence all the blue tape on the foredeck) so when it rains, I have water from both directions....

Whatever it is, it is getting better but will be watched religiously.

Thanks all!

- M

[John Boone]

Good Morning,

You have a wonderful boat and your story is inspiring to say the least.

With respect to the water intrusion through the decks you have mentioned, is there any way you can temporarily cover the sections of the deck that have not been payed? I would think extended soaking from above with fresh water would not be good for her. A tarp might help if you could tent it up a bit and secure it over the toe rails some how.

Is the blue tape still on your forward deck? In my experience once the blue tape got wet and then the sun shined on it, the adhesive becomes very difficult to remove from the deck or other surface to which it was on. Maybe others here can comment on that possible issue for you as well.

I'm glad to hear the seeping has slowed for you.

Best Regards, John

[Concordia...41]

Thanks John - No worries though, we'll be paying the seams tonight (if the rain lets up) tomorrow at the latest!

It just didn't get done Friday before we launched on Saturday and that's several hours worth of prep work taping off the seams.

After that I can spend the rest of my life chasing little drips.... ;)

- M

[John Boone]

Not sure what you plan to use on the deck to pay the seams. Any concerns tht the deck planks may be too wet for a good bond?

[Concordia...41]

I guess I oversimplified the situation.

We're using TDS 440 http://www.teakdecking.com/ with CPES as a bonding agent for the seam sides. That's what we used on the mizzen deck, cockpit floor, and bridge deck and I could not be happier with the results.

Moisture is definately an issue, and there's a few more hours of taping the side decks, and the CPES needs to be applied.

I hope to get the taping finished this afternoon unless it is just pouring rain. If the sun comes out for a few hours, I can CPES. Then the seams can be payed Wednesday. Worst case scenario, I see the job being completed by Friday.

Frankly, we've come this far, and I'm confident I can get some caulk in a few deck seams. :)

Keep me on my toes though... :D

- M

[John Boone]

Sorry, didn't mean to be a pest. Seems all is well in hand. Fairwinds.

John

[Concordia...41]

The sun just came out and I'm off to work on the boat within the hour. Even given the errand running, I should have all afternoon and evening (and I have one of the guys that helped before the launch that said he'd be available after work).

Life is good in Sunny Florida :)

Actually, this is the first sunshine she's seen since we put her in the warehouse in January 05. :):)

And John, don't worry, no one could possible be more of a mother hen about this boat than I am.... ;)

[CundysHarbor]

I guess I don't understand about running the engine in a freshly launched wooden boat. The planks are still moving and the fastenings are all a little loose. A week tied up with the engine off won't hurt anything. Running the engine can make the fastenings into mini reamers!

[Steve Lansdowne]

Ya know, all good mothers worry about their 'babies' when they're quite young. Since Sarah has just been 'reborn,' you're doing just what nature intended!

[Concordia...41]

I know, I try not to be psychotic. :(

I really do.

Left there at 7:30, bilge pump cycling at 2 min./11 second intervals. (Not that I had a stop watch with lap timer or anything...) :o

Now the wind is picking up again.

I know she's a boat, and I know she's ok, but if I want her to keep me safe, I have to keep her safe....

The good news is that I have a cushion (snitched from a neighboring boat) and my bedding already down there...

[Dan McCosh]

When you sleep on board, you hang your hand over the side of the bunk, so when it gets wet, you wake up.....

[Concordia...41]

When you sleep on board, you hang your hand over the side of the bunk, so when it gets wet, you wake up.....

The interior isn't in. I'm sleeping on a borrowed cushion on the floorboards.

I will know fairly quickly if there's a problem... :eek:

:eek::eek::eek:

[Dan McCosh]

The interior isn't in. I'm sleeping on a borrowed cushion on the floorboards.

I will know fairly quickly if there's a problem... :eek:

:eek::eek::eek:


Then get a good air mattress, and hang your hand over the edge of that. At least you will likely wake up when it floats up and your head hits the cabin ceiling.

[Concordia...41]

Well hang your hands over the side if you want, I figure if my hair is getting wet, it's time to get up and man the pumps! :eek:

[Dan McCosh]

In all seriousness, I hope you aren't going to go to "boat sit" all by yourself. We've been in this situation lots of times, and make it point not to start climbing around in the dark alone. There have been a couple of deaths around here from people falling in in similar situations, including one a couple weeks ago.

[Concordia...41]

No. She was fine when I left. And I checked all three pumps. And the battery charger. And the three-way. And the GFIs.

I'm going to watch the news and set the alarm for 2, 3, or 4. ;)

The marina is a well-lit place with floating docks and a light pod right by Sarah. James is in the next marina and can see her from their dock (we leave a light on the same drop as the battery charger). If the light goes out, he can see we've lost power.

However, the other night we had power, but lost the float switch on the 110 and the 12v shorted out. :(

Dang it, I wasn't going to worry...

Good night all...

[R.I.Singer30]

Sounds like things are coming around.When I worked at the boatyard we would usually hip tow a newly launched wooden boat to their mooring or slip to avoid running the engine .I believe the reason being,as sort of said earlier, was lubrication.This could be the shudder felt while reving the engine.When you are comfortable with the water intake,give the engine and drive train another go.Hopefully that will straighten itself out also.Good luck .DanL

[John Bertenshaw]

There's a certain amount of reshaping going on. You really need to re check alignment ,in the water when the boat has settled down.

[John Bertenshaw]

Bump,
How's it all going Margo?

[Concordia...41]

No ifs, ands, or buts, or swelling up.

I have a leak around the horn timber.

Bilge pump seems to be producing less - I never got around to putting a water jug under the hose and measuring the discharge - but they are running less and producing less.

However, there is a problem and even if it stopped right now, I'd haul the boat and get to the bottom of it before I trusted it with the engine running full blast in a heavy seaway. :eek:

Dual priorities this week are cosmetic details - varnish toe rail and companionway boards, touch up topsides, finish gold leaf on cove stripe, etc. She is, afterall, sitting on the dock in plain view. Even mastless, she must look proper. :)

The other priority is getting the warehouse cleaned out. With the time change, it gets dark here about 6 pm so that gives me a few hours at the boat after work and then a couple of hours at the warehouse.

So you can all share the view: :)

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cf24b3127ccebfa201c77d2000000026108BYtG7lsxbq

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cf24b3127ccebfa22ea9bcf100000026108BYtG7lsxbq

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cf24b3127ccebfa22168fcaf00000026108BYtG7lsxbq

[Lew Barrett]

Nice!

[Concordia...41]

If I wanted to be all artsy fartsy, I'd call the center picture "Wet decks, blue tape, fading light" :)

[John Bertenshaw]

I see a chair placed strategically for the view.;)

[rbgarr]

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cf24b3127ccebfa22168fcaf00000026108BYtG7lsxbq

"Y' got yer bolled s'rimp, frawhd s'rimp, grilt s'rimp, s'rimp ficasee, s'rimp coptail..."

-Bubba Blue

[tattooed john]

That tape will take off your paint if you leave it too many days. Especially if it gets moisture in it.

[katiedobe]

Don't get discouraged Margo. You will overcome this problem just like all the rest you have survived.
The view is wonderful. Thanks for keeping us informed about the whole "taking up" issue.
Peace

[Joe ( Cold Spring on Hudson )]

"Y' got yer bolled s'rimp, frawhd s'rimp, grilt s'rimp, s'rimp ficasee, s'rimp coptail..."

-Bubba Blue

Luuuuutinent Dayyyn <jumps off moving boat>

- Forest Gump

[MiddleAgesMan]

As several others have mentioned I hope you can avoid running the engine in gear if at all possible. And I'll reiterate what John has said above you also need to disconnect the shaft and check the alignment once the hull takes up.

The alignment done on the hard while the boat was dry just brought everything close but it's a good bet the actual final alignment will be different now. If you have a good flex coupling this isn't quite as big a concern but it should still be checked at some point.

I don't recall one of those tall bridges when I was in St. Augustine. I seem to recall they replaced the one to the north of town with a high bridge. Is that where you are, to the north?

[Concordia...41]

As several others have mentioned I hope you can avoid running the engine in gear if at all possible. And I'll reiterate what John has said above you also need to disconnect the shaft and check the alignment once the hull takes up.

The alignment done on the hard while the boat was dry just brought everything close but it's a good bet the actual final alignment will be different now. If you have a good flex coupling this isn't quite as big a concern but it should still be checked at some point.

I don't recall one of those tall bridges when I was in St. Augustine. I seem to recall they replaced the one to the north of town with a high bridge. Is that where you are, to the north?

I agree with all of the above re: alignment, and have some of the best folks around helping me with this. I expect the next time the engine will be put in gear will be next week when we move to the lift to haul. We'll address whatever issues need addressing, put her back in (hopefully quickly), and then check alignment before any victory laps around the bayfront. :);)

These pictures are looking south at the 312 bridge. You're thinking of the Vilano bridge (lift bridge replaced by high span bridge) in approximately 1991. I don't know when the 312 bridge was built, I know they've added another two lanes to it since I've been here (1989).

I'm sorry I didn't get a chance to reply to your first post. You have a good eye. It's the San Sebastian River & you're thinking of English Landing which is just north of where we are (St. Augustine Marine) a couple of turns up the river.

[seayou7]

Hi ya, Thinking what could be the cause of the leaking. You say horn timber. So above the stuffing box. How is the rudder alingment and its stuffing box, if you have one?
Aside, some shaft logs are meant to be filled with grease.
Stopwater. Soft wood peg in the rabbet where timbers meet. That'd be under the plank at hood ends. If it is trulely a leak this is a likely fix. Unless you think the caulking job got rushed and some cotton is the fix. Hmmm. Don't want to see you take this apart if the fix is easy.
May even be able to identify the source in the water, Try gooping some slick seam on areas of concern before haulout. If you can stop the egress of water you will better know where to start making repairs.
When a problem presents itself, the solution is equally apparent, we choose which to focus our attention on.
I some times pump the bilge dry with a hand pump then watch to see how long it takes to fill up to the pump.

[FSS172]

Here's an idea that I've used successfully to locate a leak in the horn timber/rudder post area of a friends boat. This works best with a fairly high volume leak - which it sounds like you have - and current-free water. You get in the water with a squeeze bottle or a horse syringe filled with food coloring and take it down to the area of the suspected leak. You need to minimize any movement that will disturb the water. Those suction cup hand holds make it easier to stay in position without stirring things up. You will need to hold your breath whether or not you're on scuba to keep the bubbles from creating upcurrents. A weight belt to give you neutral bouyancy while holding a full breath will help too. But if you're not an experienced diver, be on a tether and have a safety watch on deck before you go into the water wearing weight. Squirt the dye into the water right next to the hull at joints, rudder post aperture, stern bearing etc. If the water is still and the light is good, you can actually watch the colored water get sucked into the leak. Once I located the leak I plugged it temporarily with rope caulk till we could haul the boat to do a proper fix. You could also do the sawdust trick right at the leak if you're inclined but even if that stops the flow I wouldn't consider that a permanent fix or a substitute for hauling and fixing the problem.