Dynel Deck Questions

[Bark]

I tried to look this up using the work-around, but I'm having problems making that work, too.

On a ply/Dynel/epoxy deck:

1. What's the recommended goop for use between deck beams and the new ply? Epoxy? 5200? Sikaflex?

2. Are there potential problems fastening the ply to the deck beams using bronze screws around the panel edges, but SS nails across the "middle" of the ply?

3. Once the project is complete, how do you keep paint from building up over time and filling in the weave of the Dynel? (I read the other post emphasizing the need to thin the epoxy on top of the fabric).

Thanks and sorry if this is a replay of posts past.

[DougWilde]

Bark,

Point 3 is the most important. You cannot prevent build-up in the weave. I've laid Dynel for a deck. Make it as smooth as possible, then add the texture. Otherwise, if you have to go back and remove old paint to get to a clean surface, you'll need a stiff brush and lots of paint remover. Or sand the crap out of it.

When laying on that first finish, think what you'll need to do to refinish in a few years.

Doug Wilde

[Buddy Sharpton]

This is like the search for the one true religion.

If you're gonna keep her forever and ever have to take up that deck, you'll appreciate bronze screws and a easier to break the bond adhesive.

If you want to get it done right to "last forever", I'd use thickened epoxy and bronze screws or ring shank boat nails all around. Even SS can eventually rust and you'd hate the measles it would cause.

Eventually the waffle pattern in the dynel will fill if you don't wire brush away about as much paint as you recoat with. A great "fix" for practicality is to put some non skid polmeric beads additive in your paint. Even shallow. paint filled in dimples look the same to the purist's eye, but the nonskid is markedly better than just the "brand new"fabric texture.