Laminating Frames

[chuckm]

Using ash to laminate frames; Gray Seal Keel version. Have completed 1-7 and the inner stem. No problems, and they match well to molds. Here's the problem, Pre Rita I clamped the ash strips to block set-up #8,3 thin, kerf-cut individual pieces, to the blocks arranged in needed position to build the frame. Then the Hurricaine came and BIG MESS. New roof, helped neighbor with her roof, serious tree damage removal, replaced tin roof on boat shop, and one nervous breakdown of wife. I had left the un-glued strips in the molds for like 6 weeks and of course they took shape. Well I thought that would be an advantage and proceded with the other 3 straight strips and tried to glue them all together. Mistake. That or the boatbuilding gods were against me. It did not stack up square. So now I'm using filler cellulose and plastic by DAP, needs acetone to thin. Its square now and it filled in the gaps, it looks strong, I sure would like to proceed to the final frame, or should I start # 8 again. Somtimes nothing goes right.

[Jagermeister]

chuckm:

If I understand this correctly, you have gaps between layers of the ply? One laminate didn't nest up against the other fully and there is a space there? Is that what you are saying?

If so, how long is the gap, how wide is the gap, and is it completely across - edge to edge?

[chuckm]

Jagermeister: Yes, the inside laminates has gaps less than and = to 1mm, but only 3-4 inches long. Its the outside laminated stock that is 3 inches wide that i have built up to desired square and thickness,that's the problem. They have 1/4 inch gaps. In some places they run in a curve 1-4 feet. My thought was i would fill in with filler and than plane down to @ 2 1/2 inch. I'm working with 3 inch stock ash laminates and my floors, i glue too, are at 2 1/2 in white oak. Thats the thickess White oak stock i had available. So i have to plane down anyway. Need to buy digital camera.

[Jagermeister]

chuckm:

I'm certainly not an expert, but 1/4" gap seems like too much space for a decent bond. You could fillet it with resin thickened with microfibers, but that might create a hard spot in the frame.

How much time and money is involved in redoing that frame? If you've done all the other ones fine it seems a shame to let a substandard one slip by. Not pointing fingers, but if its going to be something you look at and see from now on like a sore tooth, I'd bite the bullet and re-do it. At least then you know you won't have any regrets down the line.

[chuckm]

Jag: I know, its just my glueing season is about over, and I wanted to start on strongback and setting up molds and alignment. Holidays around the corner and its spring. But your correct i need to redo #8. I quess sometimes you have to. thanks chuck m

[Dave Gray]

Photos - we need photos!