View Full Version : Epoxy learning experience
zenda
08-28-2007, 09:37 PM
Hey guys,
I am using epoxy for the first time, in construction of Sao. I had this great idea of mixing the epoxy and putting it in a zip-lock bag. Then, I cut the corner off, and presto chango I've got an applicator. The problem is, the epoxy dissolved the bag halfway through the job. Can anyone suggest a more suitable means of achieving the same objective? Is there a plastic bag that is epoxy-proof?
kc8pql
08-28-2007, 09:43 PM
What kind of epoxy are you using? I've used plastic bags for years to squirt thickened epoxy beads into corners for forming fillets. Never had a problem. I use mostly System Three, West once in a while.
pipefitter
08-28-2007, 10:07 PM
Empty caulk tubes. Some epoxy suppliers stock them.
Mix smaller quantities. Epoxy will get very hot in large confined batches. Freezer weight bags are fine. stay out of the sun. mix in the bags. mix only one batch at a time. If it is very warm put the cans on a tub of cool water.
JimConlin
08-28-2007, 11:03 PM
You can mix in the bag.
I bought some 4-mil ziplock bags from Associated Bag (http://www.associatedbag.com/category.asp?cn=ABC&c1=BAG&p1=BAG%5FZ150&c2=BO04&Pg=1) and have had no problems. In 6" x 6" size, their minimum order is 1000 bags.
mcdenny
08-29-2007, 06:45 AM
SSOR hit it on the head. I bet the epoxy melted the bag, as opposed to chemically disolving it.
Epoxy reacts much faster in the 90 degree summer heat than it does in a 50 degree shop in the winter.
Alixander Beck
08-29-2007, 10:10 AM
Epoxy can get very hot. Did you not feel the heat as you applied?
pipefitter
08-29-2007, 10:39 AM
Yeah,you can use the bag idea but the caulk tubes will work slick in every direction including vertical and overhead. I did all the interior fillets in the Simmons 18 inside of a half hour. They came out almost too pretty to mess with. When I was done,pushed the plastic plunger back out and washed with a vinegar soaked paper rag and reused them several times.The medium cure epoxy wasn't in the tubes long enough to get warm.
zenda
08-29-2007, 07:13 PM
I'll try the freezer bags. The ones I used were thin sandwich bags, and they disintegrated in my hands. I'm using System3 T-88. I also like the caulking tube idea, especially when I start strip planking. Thanks guys!
JimConlin
08-29-2007, 07:26 PM
When strip planking, i started with the plastic bag 'cake decorator' approach. It worked well enough but because i needed to use small (4 oz.) batches of epoxy, it took more labor than i thought reasonable. My current method is to take some strips and clamp them in a bunch, cove side up, on a table. Then, i smear epoxy putty across the face of the strips, into the coves. Seems to be more efficient.
No bags, no tubes, just a stir stick.
Raka025
08-29-2007, 07:48 PM
When strip planking, bead and cove, most references recommend yellow glue. The epoxy comes after for sealing and the glass. Like building a strip canoe or kayak. Limiting epoxy use also limits your exposure to a more toxic compound.
pipefitter
08-29-2007, 08:23 PM
When strip planking, i started with the plastic bag 'cake decorator' approach. It worked well enough but because i needed to use small (4 oz.) batches of epoxy, it took more labor than i thought reasonable. My current method is to take some strips and clamp them in a bunch, cove side up, on a table. Then, i smear epoxy putty across the face of the strips, into the coves. Seems to be more efficient.
No bags, no tubes, just a stir stick.
That sounds like the ticket for strip building with epoxy.
zenda
08-29-2007, 08:38 PM
I'm strip/diagonal planking a 28'3" heavy displacement sloop, using 3/4" strips. For this application, I think I'll go with epoxy. "Gang-gluing" the strips is a good suggestion, though.
Don Maurer
08-30-2007, 09:28 AM
For small batches you can use plastic syringes. If the tip is cut wide enough you can use a nail to force the cured epoxy out of the syringe and get several uses out of it.
kc8pql
08-30-2007, 10:05 AM
I'm strip/diagonal planking a 28'3" heavy displacement sloop, using 3/4" strips...I'm using System3 T-88.
T-88 is convenient and will work just fine but, for a boat that size, it would be less expensive to thicken your own resin. You have more control that way too because you can vary the viscosity and use slower or faster hardeners to suit the job or adjust for the temperature. Fast in cold weather or slow when it's hot.
If it's hot out or warmer than expected, and mix up a batch a little larger than needed,put it in the shop fridge or freezer till you catch up.
You do have a fridge for the shop?
Also in really warm weather, keep the resin and hardner in the shop fridge, keep the resin away from the beer, just a little smear can make quite a mess.
John Freund
08-30-2007, 06:12 PM
I bought empty caulk tubes from eastern marine for applying the epoxy fillets on my boat
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