Rudder/Tiller connection

[JMAC]

I'm making a new tiller for the Rhodes 18. The one that came with the boat is a crude replacement. The rudder has 2 cheeks at top that the tiller sits in and was bolted through allowing it to swing up and over the other way. I think that I need to keep that feature so that I can lift it up out of the way when tacking.

The fastener was a 1/4" machine screw going through the cheeks with 2 nuts on its end. That looks rather inelegant to me, any suggestions as to what is right and proper?

[Smacksman]

If you lift the tiller up while tacking I hope your boom is high enough to clear it!

[Del Lansing]

It does sound a bit inelegant, probably would want to replace the double-nut with a single acorn-nut; that would class it up.
look at 1/4" acorn (http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/nuts/acornhex.gif)

[ 02-27-2005, 09:30 PM: Message edited by: Del Lansing ]

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
Well, except that I'd use a plain piece of threaded rod the right length with one of those dome nuts on each end. (Bronze for preference, although you'd get away with brass if you checked it every couple of years. Or stainless of course, if you're one of those people. smile.gif )

If you measure the rod carefully you can jam the dome nuts right down tight on each end without the need for washers, spring washers, or locknuts, but also without jamming them against the rudder stock.

Mike

[J. Dillon]

Or you could spiff it some more by carefull drilling into the brass or bronze rod , tap it for a FHWS. that will hold on a brass star washer. ;)

JD

[ssor]

I have had nice results with silicon bronze welding rod from the local welding supply, cut to length with a hacksaw and threaded on each end with a 1/4-20 die. Also makes nice drifts.

[ion barnes]

"Plain threaded rod" aka Redi-rod, is a poor mans way. The tread will saw a small hole into a big hole. Plain rod threaded on the ends will do thank you.

[tidmarsh]

Thanks for tip on the acorn nuts. I'll have to pick a few up to spruce up my rudder fittings.

I used 1/4" naval brass rod and cut threads into each end with a hand held die. It's a bit hard to hold exactly straight, and my threads are a bit drunk, but for the short distance you need to thread a nut onto each end, the crookedness is insignificant.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/s/articles/rudder/cb&rudderpins.jpg

[Bob Smalser]

For looks, make your own.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6490387/83400489.jpg

Brass or bronze rod, two acorn nuts (large ones at McMaster-Carr) and a die.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/6490387/85769044.jpg

[ 03-01-2005, 11:17 AM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[JMAC]

Hey Bob, let's see a picture of the rest of your boat. It looks like a nice'un. I think I'll go for threading some rod, thanks.

[ssor]

A bushing in the tiller will protect it from the rod.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
Thank you, SSOR. That was to be my reply to Ion (followed by the word "naturally." smile.gif )

Mike