Progress photos, and mast question.

[bobkaschak]

Here is a photo of the progress on my daysailer. I also included a link to some photos of the upper mast I made and I have a question on that. The lower section of the mast is 10', and the upper section is 9'. The lower section is solid (laminated of 4/4 stock, and is in good shape. The upper section is a "box" construction, 7/16" thick stock, and was rotted, and busted apart on the lower "mortised" end where it mated with the top of the lower mast. I ended up building a new one, and I was looking for suggestions to "beef-up" the lower part of the upper mast to prevent it from busting apart like the old one. Have I lost everyone yet? I was thinking of an aluminum "box sleeve" to slide over the intersection after the two sections are assembled when I sail it. The old one was "band aided" with aluminum angles, and screws galore on the corners. Suggestions? Inputs? Here is also a link to some more photos.
Bob

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid29/p50f323c9add9176a11ff661e7af7b62d/fd5faf69.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?show_all=1&id=4291804847&start=1

[bud]

Very nice looking boat, what is the design? Your mast, to me, is very odd. IMHO, the "box" construction of the upper part is just plain weak.

[shadow99]

I had a mast that was a two-piece unit as well, the upper section had an aluminum sleeve that slid down over the upper-half of the bottom section of the mast. Although both the upper & lower mast section were of solid spruce, I found that the upper mast section would tieter-totter depending upon the angle-of-attack. I epoxied the aluminum sleeve to the upper & lower mast sections to make one solid 18' stick, upwind performace 200% better. The only downfall for me was storage of the now 18' mast when trailering the boat around, with the old way the mast folded down to 9' toss it in the boat, done.
My boat design seems simular to yours, mine is a heavily modified Shell Boats "Swifty 12."
You've done a beautiful job so far, from what I've seen in your pictures.

Rick

[bobkaschak]

I have no idea what the design of the boat is. Made in 1928 (what I was told) in Long Island NY area. Yea, I am not crazy about the desigh of the mast either, as I was trying to stick with originality??

[shadow99]

I have seen in Mystic,CT a mast with a hollow upper mast section like yours that used 3 1" wide bands of SS to compress the mortise & tenon joint of the mast, almost like industrial hose clamps without the ungodly and ugly screw clamp system. I'm unsure how they clamped them so tightly around the mast, they were riveted together at an overlapping seam, facing the bow. They might have been swaged onto the mast like a barrel hoop.

Rick

[bobkaschak]

Rick, I just had a "duh" moment. I was originally thinking about a "box sleeve" to slide over the intersection, but I forgot about the sail track shown in the photo. That would be in the way,..."duh". Hmmmmmmmmm

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid29/p40605533d46d2c42fab95edda84760cc/fd5f598d.jpg

[shadow99]

Bob, If you could manage to create a banded type clamp from 1/16-3/32" SS flat stock, you could create a relieved area "dado" to which the clamps could sit & the sail track would still sit flush on the mast. If the clamps were to loosen you could drive small hardwood wedges along the port & starboard side of the mast,and secure the wedges with a small screw.

Rick

[Frank Hagan]

Originally posted by bobkaschak:
I was thinking of an aluminum "box sleeve" to slide over the intersection after the two sections are assembled when I sail it. The problem with anything over the outside is that it is in the way. Could you use square steel tubing inside the upper section, and re-size the tenon on the lower section to fit into it? Then a single pin could be used to secure it to the tenon.

Better yet would be to strengthen that tenon as well with square tubing over it that would slide into the tubing inside the top portion. You might find that the tenon is the "weaker link" once you strengthen the upper portion.

[bobkaschak]

Rick, Frank these sound like some good ideas. I will have to take some measurements to see how much room I have to "play" with. I want to make sure the tenon (which is made of oak), is not reduced too much. I will keep you posted.
Thanks,
Bob

[Mr. Know It All]

Bob.....Nice work on a beautiful boat. Thanks for the pictures. smile.gif
Peace---> Kevin in Ohio