Sanding and CPES

[Rocky]

Thinking of CPESing my bow today, does it matter how well-sanded it is? I can always take the sander to it later, right?

[Concordia..41]

220 - or do you just like sanding stuff back off???

:D

[ 03-17-2003, 10:43 AM: Message edited by: Concordia..41 ]

[Don Maurer]

I sand to a finish surface using 120 for painted or 220 for bright surfaces before using CPES. After the CPES is dry to the touch, I will hit it lightly with 220 if there are any runs or surface irregularities. If it is a pretty even surface, I go right to paint or varnish.

[garland reese]

I'm not familiar with CPES use. How many coats is appropriate to seal the wood? I've got two shells (quads) with the gunnels down to bare wood (Spruce saxboards).

Considering inside storage and the typical "carry/launch/row/unlaunch/carry/store 'til tommorrow" life of rowing shells, is CPES warranted? Could thinned varnish be effective and protective enough to seal the wood (followed by say 6-8 build coats)?
These things have got to go to the water pretty soon.
I'd rather be building a sailboat.........

Margo, Dave, Art, Ed, Norm, Scott, Everybody ......HELP!!!! Please advise!

[ 03-26-2003, 12:44 AM: Message edited by: garland reese ]

[Art Read]

Garland... One coat would probably be just fine. Two wouldn't hurt and you can even put it on in just an hour or so when the first coat has dried to the touch. Then put your "sealer" coat of varnish on once that's dry to the touch too. (I usually just slap the first coat of varnish on over the CPES full strength. You're gonna want to sand it pretty good before the second coat of varnish anyway, and the CPES will seal your wood better than any thinned varnish will.) Don't sand any of it 'till that first coat of varnish over CPES has set up hard and then just proceed as usual for any varnish work. Good luck. You'll love this stuff.

[ 03-26-2003, 12:59 AM: Message edited by: Art Read ]

[Concordia..41]

Garland - I second Art's comments, and bet you'll thank yourself later. I the CPES will help a lot with the durability of the varnish in the hit/bang/ding enviroment the shells are going to be subjected to.

But if you don't have it already, don't set your project back too far ordering it (and it ain't cheap either).

Smith & Co.
5100 Channel Avenue
Richmond, CA 94804
1-800-234-0330

They have two versions - cold weather and regular. With either you need to use a respirator indoors (and probably outside too). I sure wouldn't let any of the kids around it. The stuff is some seriously bad s---. Here's a shot of a youth boat building group that's been using CPES in large quantities:

http://www.stones.net/photo.2.jpg

That's Cleek - second from the right. (An admitted 11-year user.) :D

[garland reese]

Thanks Art and Margo! That makes me feel better. Boy, that CPES must be some wicked bad stuff. By respirator, do you mean a cartridge type like that which I use during epoxy procedures, or should we use a full air supplied deal? As you can see, I'm a handsome devil with a beautiful mind. I would not want to risk turning up like that Cleek fella.

http://www.redskelton.com/img00098.jpg

[NormMessinger]

Who said respirator? You are not supposed to work inside the box the boat came in. Respirator with epoxy? Don't let the picture Margo posted scare ya. Those wrinkles are from worry not CPES fumes when used in a well ventilated or outdoor setting.

[Scott Rosen]

What Art said.

I find that using CPES saves me a lot of time in the application of the varnish. In one day, you can get more of a sealer with CPES than you would in three or four days of applying thinned varnish.

[Rocky]

Did two coats yesterday, she looks pretty darn good just with the goop! I just wasted an hour trying to take a picture but the ()*&^% Olympus is just too smart for me. Doesn't anyone make a digital camera with MANUAL focus and exposure?

[Concordia..41]

Rocky the Olympus trick is to hold your mouth just right. tongue.gif